sirmuppet

19 hours ago, rushbo said:

(Warning: I am a bit of a Zoom fanboy).

I think a Zoom B3/B3n would be a great place to start. For less than the price of a couple of pedals (if you buy one used...) you can get a whole world of interesting noises. And if you get a B3, you also get an XLR out, too. 

They're pretty straightforward to use and you could easily audition the effects on the Zoom, before you take the plunge and buy individual stomp boxes. Or just stick with the Zoom. I'm not a massive user of pedals, so the B3 was a no-brainer for me and I've had one on my board for years. It's ace. 

 

Seems decent. I Do have some sort of zoom thing I used for practicing with my headphones on. B1N maybe? 

On 23/06/2021 at 09:23, ezbass said:

I would recommend the Tech21 Bass Fly, but they are not cheap. Therefore, why not try the Valeton Bass Dapper, a fly clone at a fraction of the price?

Speaking of Valeton, there’s on of their multi fx in the for sale section at the moment. I know nothing about them, however.

 

Never heard of this but I'll take a look. Thanks. 

I told Ernie Ball I post up this thread and they asked what they could do to make it right. So I told them I had it with Cobalts, I'd just rather have regular strings. Which they've now said they will send me. 

I'm glad I'm not alone in thinking it was a bad idea. I would never have done it as it didn't sound right, just wondered if anyone else had tried or been told to do it. 

At least they've sorted me now. 

Well this was Ernie Ball UK sayign this to me. I would never do it but it seems the consensus is that it's not a good idea which is what I thought. 

Eventually Ernie Ball relented and offered me a set of strings to which I said just regualr ones rather than Cobalts. 

Thanks for the opinions. It was exactly what I thought 🙂

The B3N looks decent. That perhaps along with a Sansamp could hit the spot actually. 

2 hours ago, paul_c2 said:

I've played bass for about 35 years and only used effects in a live situation......once. It might be a downstream consequence of the genres of music I play, though.

I've dabbled on and off with effects over the years. I currently have a Boss GT-1B and a few pedals - compressor, mega distortion, bass eq, bass chorus (all Boss pedals) (and a cheap tuner pedal which I no longer use; and a wireless receiver in pedal format).

Honestly, I find the Boss GT-1B a bit meh, both in the sounds it can produce and the effort/inconvenience/opportunity to mess up in setting it up. I am sure there's a few good sounds in there, but its so clumsy to find them its virtually impossible to do so in a rehearsal situation. I could sit down for an hour and try stuff out in isolation but that's not quite the same.

The pedals, however, tend to make life with effects much simpler and "just do it", producing usable sounds with a bunch of settings (or easy to quickly dial in the settings).

I know there's a simpler Boss multi effects - ME-80 - however I don't know if they do a bass version and I don't know if those effects would be good for bass.

 

 

TLDR - just buy a decent chorus pedal. AND use the tone controls on the bass and your RH technique!

That's pretty much my thoughts on multi effects. I'm not sold on the sound or ease of use. 

2 hours ago, Doddy said:

If all you need is chorus and drive, I'd just buy a chorus and an overdrive. Something like a Earthquaker Plumes and a TC June 60 would sound really good and not break the bank.

It's sort of a clean, semi driven and full driven. Even then a chorus is probably only going to be used on 2 songs and I reckon I could get away without it. I'm sort of trying to talk myself out of it as I've never been an effects guy.

1 hour ago, SumOne said:

I haven't used one but I'd be tempted with the fly-rig. 

Everything in one place, no need for extra cables/power supplies. Chorus, boost/distortion, fuzz, octave, EQ, Tuner, compressor, XLR out, headphone out. 

It looks like you can just have the fuzz on:

"The controls interact so that you can get dynamically-filtered clean, fuzz, and octave, as well as octave and fuzz together. When Q is at minimum, Range becomes a high-cut tone filter for different versions of clean, fuzz, octave, and octave and fuzz together. You can then blend any of these combinations with your direct signal via the Mix control"

 

It's sort of a box that does everything in pedal form which is why I'm drawn to it. I did have a Sansamp deluxe and used that instead of the preamp to my head. So I never really classed it as a pedal. Even then I still hated having to take an extra item along with me, even if it did save me when my amp wouldn't work, lol.

21 minutes ago, Skybone said:

If it's a variety of sounds, like clean / driven / downright dirty, then something like a Sansamp BDDI Deluxe or VT Deluxe would be ideal. If you need other effects from there, you can add them when you want.

On the other hand, if you need core sounds and effects right off, then a multi FX may well be a better option. The Zoom B3n is a relatively inexpensive and easy to programme / play with option if you only use a few effects. However, if you want to add more effects / use amp & cab sims etc. then something like the Line6 POD Go or HX Stomp might be worth a look.

On saying that, I've been using a Line6 POD HD500x for the last few years, which you can pick up second hand for about £200-250. You do have to register & buy the add on the HD Bass pack (about £20), but it does sound great IMO. Has all the effects & connectivity that you might need, and still costs less than the Helix variants.

Yeah, it was a deluxe I originally thought about but just being in a covers band I'm on the fence about getting the effects to have the sound. Again, do I really need to? I had the POD HD500 before and it wasn't for me. I have been watrching your VT deluxe and trying to decide if I want to go for it. I had a VT before but I can't remember why I got rid of it. Maybe just as I had the BDDI deluxe with the extra channels.

5 minutes ago, walbassuk said:

The thing with multi effects is you tend to not use all of them but if you know what you want from them it makes sorting through them a lot easier, I've been using an X3 live and pretty much used 4 patches plus effects if needed. I've just gone to the fly rig ver2 and so far it does all I need it to do in a very compact package.

Cool. 

With the fly rig 2 I know there's an octave/fuzz effect. Can you just have the fuzz alone on that?

Thanks.

5 minutes ago, KiOgon said:

I have used Fast Fret a few times on used strings over the years, (not always on the same strings 🙄), that does clean them off, apparently KFC fingers is good too!

Ha ha. I'll need to use that as and excuse to go to KFC!

Just now, KiOgon said:

I only use flats, but have done this on rounds also - before fitting new strings soak a cotton wool pad in IPA or Surgical Spirit or Methylated spirit and scrub the new strings down until clean. It's amazing how much black shyte comes off them - machining oil mostly.

I would never use steel wool of any grade, especially not while on a bass, imagine bits of steel wool all over your pick-up magnets 😃

 

Thanks. These strings have had only about 3 hours use in total. The black spots appeared even before I really used them. It was the same bass that had cobalts on for about 2 years prior and the ones I took off looked newer than the ones that had just been put on. After 3 hours use they look even worse!

Yeah, I rub my strings down after use to. Not going at far as to use what you do. I mean Cobalts aren't cheap or as easy to find so I want them to last as long as they can.

I've replied to Ernie Ball. Will see what they say.

35 minutes ago, KiOgon said:

You must be joking!

31 minutes ago, Reggaebass said:

Definitely not, you would never get rid of the tiny metal fibres , I wouldn’t put wire wool anywhere near any of my basses 

Thanks guys. Didn't want to add it until I had a couple of replies but this was Ernie Ball themselves advising I do this with a set of Cobalts. They went on my bass which was stored in it's case. It came out 2 weeks later with black spots on the strings. Now no other basses have this, and it's stored inside in a dry condition. After less than 3 hours play the G turned very dark and the spots got worse. This is the thread email:

So I just auditioned and got into a new covers band. They've been playing for years and I'm quickly having to learn their set. Having gone through it I think I'm gonna need to invest in some effects of some sort. My last band I was able to get away with using my bass heads clean and drive channels. I've since gone to a lighter single channel head. The songs have varied bass tones like you'd expect.

I've been looking for a little while and I can decide what to go for. Do I go for a multi effects (Something I've never gelled with but it's been years since I used any), single pedals along with something like a Sansamp deluxe or the Bass Fly Rig V2?

Am needing a clean, semi driven and full driven tones along with probably a chorus though I could maybe get away without that. 

I like things as simple as possible but don't want anything sub-par if that makes sense? Would love a light 3 channel bass head but I don't think one exists, lol. 

Any advice?

Has any one tried using steel wool to clean their bass strings? Just wondering as it's been suggested to me to do this and it doesn't sound like a good idea to me. 

25 minutes ago, skej21 said:

Thanks!

Sure it’s this: https://www.jp-guitars.co.uk/sales/tools/electric_guitar_tools/tele_truss_rod_crank.htm

I know it says “tele” but it’s all the same 👍
 

£14 might seem a bit steep if you only do a small number of instruments/adjustments but I do setups on a few of my basses and those of friends and it’s probably saved me £15 minutes of time (and also saves you taking the neck off, which can causes chips etc quite easily on nitro instruments!), so was worth it IMO!

Perfect. I had a 62 reissue and ended up drilling out an angle so I could get a screw driver in there (Tip of Geddy Lees tech I saw). Now have a 60 reissue and might need a setup when I change strings. With this, I won't even need to take the neck off! £14 once would pay for itself as hate taking the neck off. 

Thanks for sending me the link. Much appreciated. 😊

5 hours ago, skej21 said:

I recently bought a Fender Original 60s Precision in Surf Green from PMT (Initially ordered a LPB but Fender were pushing the delivery out until 2022 and almost beyond within the 2 months of placing the order!)

It arrived, I have the Stew Mac heel access truss adjustment tool so didn’t need to remove the neck to adjust, slapped some new flats on and switched the scratchplate over and in about 20 minutes had it playing beautifully. 
 

There are so many factors between it leaving the hands of the person setting up (factory temperature, shipping conditions, shop conditions, how the setup applied differs from the buyer’s preferences etc etc).
 

One HUGE issue that people don’t even consider is that managers in these shops are often non-musician managers. Where I used to work, we often hired young, cheap part-timers who were flexible and in the days when senior staff were off during the week they would receive new instruments and either put them from box to shop floor, or attempt “setups” before putting instruments on the shop floor which (inevitably) played terribly (particularly because having a bass player who knows what a nice bass plays like AND can set one up well is rare!). It’s easy to see how poor setups can creep on to the shop floor if the retailer has a lack of experience or a decent technician. 
 

I think it’s always difficult to point the finger at the manufacturer and claim it’s an “issue” because ultimately the buck stops with the store. They should be giving all instruments a once over and making sure they apply some expertise to counteract the changes the instrument is forced to go through during shipping etc.

 

That's an awesome pic. 😍

Do you have a link to that heel adjustment tool? I just had a look and couldn't find it. 

4 hours ago, gjones said:

Back in 2018 I bought an Fender Elite Precision, from Guitar Guitar. It was in a sealed box, straight from the factory. 

When I removed it from the box the setup was fine and because of the little Musicman like truss rod wheel, at the end of the neck, the action was really simple to adjust.

I'll get me coat......

I dunno why they didn't stick with that.

39 minutes ago, Velarian said:

I’ve ordered a replacement wiring loom from @KiOgon which has Bourns mini pots. The mounting hole size is, as pointed out, a couple of mm too small on my existing control plate so I’ve got my tapered reamer standing by to take care of it. 🙂

 Thanks everyone for all the replies. I’ll report back when everything is hooked up and tested. 

@KiOgon has done a 3 looms for me. 2 where there was a master volume, blend and tone (For a Jazz Bass). Easy to install and pretty much foolproof to use. Plus he never got angry at me for asking a huge amount of questions. Top guy. The loom should be killer. 

On 28/05/2021 at 17:29, FDC484950 said:

I don’t suppose your third finger fretting the note before (9th fret on A) is not lifting clear of the board in time and causing the G to buzz? It’s common if you don’t fret notes with a curve to the fingers in the fretting hand

I eventually figured it out. I was muting the E with my thumb. It wasn't enough pressure to fret it but enough that the string vibration from playing the G made it vibrate and rattle. In all my time of playing I've never had this. Was really weird as one fret higher or lower and nothing, just that one note at that one position. 

I get why a store might not let you tweak the set up in store. If it were my store ans someone asked, I'd say no as I don't know that you know what you're doing but I would offer to do it on your behalf. Outright flat rufusing that and the offer to do it isn't on. Then saying if you buy it we'll charge you more, ha ha. Glad you walked out without it, their loss. 

My local store will offer a free setup providing the bass isn't the cheapest of the cheap. And even then if you say something specific about that setup they'll change that for you there and then or before you collect it free. 

I got a Fender 60th Jazz bass and the setup on that was pretty good. It wasn't ultra low or fast but decent enough that I didn't have to take the neck off the adjust it. I agree temperature, time, humidity etc... all play a part in how it arrives in store. I get why not every one is set up in a store either, I mean if you have 100 guitars and each takes on average 30 mins or so to setup that's a long time. That's also only for the ones you have up, replacing what you sell adds to that time. 

Don't get me wrong though, I do know Fender do miss on their QC. I had an Aerodyne where the fret edges wer super sharp. Could have been shrinkage (oo er). There was also a Nate bass that the neck plate seemed to have been put on when the paint wasn't fully dry as there were ripples like thick paint had squeezed out under preasure. I don;t think Fender are the only guilty party but they are certainly one of the most famous brands and as such will come under fire for this sort of thing. 

So like the title suggests I was playing a song last night that requires a little run. The last note of the first run is a D on the G string 7th fret. Every time I hit that note it buzzes. Have tried fingers and a pick but the same. I play the run up or down 1 fret and no buzz. So I swapped basses and the same thing (J & P basses). If I hit the note on it's own like I've just fretted it then it doesn't buzz. If I play the run and hit it maybe 3 or so times by the time I hit the 4th time it doesn't buzz. 

I'm thinking this has to be something in my technique but I'll be damned if I can figure it out. Tried fretting with the top of my finger and side to see if there's any difference. Playing standing up and sitting down (happens less when sitting down but still happens). I've Googled it but all I can come up with are people saying the E is sympatheically ringing. For me it's not the E, it's 100% the G on the 7th fret as I use my thumb to mute the E.

For anyone wonder what the run is, it's the one below. Just the first part that's the issue which would be the part on the D (First bar), hope that makes sense?

Have any of you had a similar issue?

15 hours ago, Tech21NYC said:

Octave pedals work best when connected directly to the instrument. You don't want them in the effects loop or before a distortion or chorus. Like any multi-effects pedal, if you have a specific pedal that you can't do without, you may need to incorporate that with the Bass Fly Rig. The Octafilter section is better understood if you hear it in context with the effects it was patterned after. (see below) If you don't need those effects don't use them. It's still a great deal if you were to price out the pedal with individual effects. A compressor, VT Bass DI, Bass Driver, Chorus and Tuner. 

 

Here's a question for you. How does the Bass driver and VT bass on the fly rig V2 compare to the stand alone pedals? Exactly the same tone? I know from using the BDDI v1 & v2 that the v2 with the added mid control sounded very different and could be down to me not finding the right mid setting the v1 would have been defaulted to. 

22 minutes ago, tayste_2000 said:

There is a button you push to change voicing, so essentially no you can't do what you want there. It's either Bass Driver or VT on both channels.

Exactly this.

 

Which is a shame because again had that been an option I'd be all over it.

Thought so. It would have been nice to have that option but in reality I used the bass driver deluxe for a long time and set the EQ the same on all channels and just changed the gain/volume on each. So it probably won't be an issue for me, would have been cool but likely you'd have to change the EQ between them and with a shared EQ it makes sense to not offer that option. Unless the V3 has basically a BD & VTB deluxe in it, lol. I really like what they have done with this pedal though. 

I'm very tempted by this. I was looking to get a Sansamp and couldn't decide between a VT Bass or the Bass Driver. Also need to get a chorus and I borrowed an octave pedal and while I liked it I couldn't justify buying one for just one song. So this looks to have it all and the demo sounds ace. 

Anyone know if the Sans amp can be switched between voicings via the pedal or is it you have either VT-bass or Bass Driver? I'm thinking it's one or the other from the demo like you can have a clean VT-Bass and then an over driver VT-Bass but can't have a clean VT-Bass then an overdriven Bass Driver. 

Hi D_G

Long shot but have you still got this?

Thanks.

On 13/04/2021 at 12:49, Pow_22 said:

Did the strings you heard sound like flats or rounds?  Elites Groundwound definitely air on the side of flats. Havent tried their rounds but the may well also follow the same silk colour scheme?

100% sound like rounds. Bright and punchy as hell. I ended up going for the Stadium Elite Roundwounds as I'm thinking it might be them. Certainly from looking at a pick the colour scheme is the same. Got a decent deal on them too. 

12 hours ago, Little Dragon said:

Groundwound are sometimes also known as halfround. They are roundwounds with the top surface ground down and have the appearance of flats but a sound somewhere between flats and rounds.

Awesome. I knew about half rounds but didn't know the groundwound term. 😊

Have ordered a set so looking forward to A-B them against a set of Rotosounds that are on their way. 

Cheers again for the help and to Pow_22