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sirmuppet

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Posts posted by sirmuppet

    Precision bass coils difference

    in Repairs and Technical

    Posted · Edited by sirmuppet

    1 hour ago, LITTLEWING said:

    It might just be me, but why would anyone install p bass pups with the wires so far away from the controls? Surely the only sensible way is with as much length as possible for running neatly through the the routing resulting in a nice and tidy looking pickguard to plop perfectly back in? There is no difference whatsoever in the two units; only the location of the poles under the strings is somewhat critical for a balanced output for each string, otherwise you'll be sloping the pups at weird angles to get it right.

    Totally agree and again I was doing it correct but I read about Fenders new pickups. I just wanted to check I was doing it the right way which I am, lol. 

    Precision bass coils difference

    in Repairs and Technical

    Posted

    2 hours ago, KiOgon said:

    The SD SPB-3 I repaired the other day, I remember had identical resistance reading from each coil, shouldn't make any difference which way the 2 halves are fitted.

    Cheerz, John

    Cool. I had just been looking at the new American pro and read about the coil differences for both the P & J bass. When I was putting in the pickup you repaired for me it suddenly occurred to me that I had never thought if any other pickups were like that and being that I changed the covers around, had I put them in wrong. Was no issue with what you did as that worked perfectly (gigged it on sat, thanks again :)) just something I thought while doing it. You know me and wiring now xD

    Precision bass coils difference

    in Repairs and Technical

    Posted

    3 hours ago, Lozz196 said:

    I`ve always gone with the one with the wires going under the D & G, as they`re nearest to the electrics.

    Cool. This was my thinking too. The only reason I question it is that the last 4 Seymour Duncan pickups have had the covers on backwards then. As in normally on a P-bass it would be on the D/G coil but follow what you said (and what I do too) it would have had the cover on the E/A coil. Same for the Jazz ones as the logo should be on the G side of a Jazz but the wires were around at the other side so I swapped. These pickups were all purchased from different places. 

    Anyone else had the above?

    Precision bass coils difference

    in Repairs and Technical

    Posted

    This may be a stupid question. A split coil P-bass pickup obviously has two parts to it. Is there a specific side that should go under the E & A Strings and D & G strings? I'm speaking about Seymour Duncan pickups in particular the SPB-3.

    I know Fender has mentioned this on the new American Professional series and I'm guessing there are specific pickups out there like this. I had always assumed both coils were the same on most pickups unless it otherwise states that but since seeing Fenders spec I questioned my assumption that both coils are the same. If they are not how do you tell which side is which?

    Thanks, G.

    Feedback for KiOgon

    in Feedback

    Posted

    John really helped me out of a jam. I had 4 basses I needed to fix, managed 2 but also managed to majorly mess up the wiring on 2 of them. Contacted John and within less than 24hrs they had been made and sent. There was a slight issue with one pot not being long enough to fit through the body, this was my fault as it was a custom bass and didn't mention this. I also managed to break a wire off my pickup. John offered to replace the pot and fix the pickup free of charge. 

    He was quick to reply to questions regarding ordering, speccing the looms and also installation. The looms were great. Perfect and sound great. The wiring was so neat, any one with OCD would approve (I certainly did ha ha)

    I can truly say he is one of, if not the best person I have ever dealt with. John, thank you and I hope I order from you again. Merry Christmas for when it comes. 

    Grant.

    Tone pot closest to no tone pot

    in Repairs and Technical

    Posted

    2 hours ago, Geek99 said:

    I'm sorry I should have read the thread more closely. I would have gone for the Fender model as I like the slight click-feel as it drops out of circuit. CTS doesn't do that.  I'm using a "Blues tribute" model that I bought from ebay (seller is in the US but ships quickly) - with a fender brass grounding plate in the back of the pup. Here is his link on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/ONLYMUSIC-BLUES-TRIBUTE-VINTAGE-PRECISION/dp/B00DC9FI58 - he does jazz and 51 style also -they're very reasonably priced. It wasn't expensive but it sounds really thumpy yet also woody.

    I don't have a valve amp but its the kind of tome (when on full) that would overdrive just nicely. I do know from personal experience that through a zoom b2.1 on the Ampeg SVT patch it sounds "totally awesome" (in the words of a young lady there who said wisely "we need more bass around here") , it made cups and glasses rattle quite nicely even at low-ish volume. I'm happy.  

     

    Good to know. I also have that pedal but use the Bassman setting, lol. 

    Yeah, my P-bass has no top end at all. I had an SPB2 in there and thought that was the issue. But since trying the SPB3 I found the same. I did see the Cap had been replaced and I wanted to re-wire it anyway with better pots, so perfect time. Gonna have a master volume, no load tone and pan pot. I have the no loads on my strats but was unsure of how it would work on a bass. Can't wait to try it now. 

    Tone pot closest to no tone pot

    in Repairs and Technical

    Posted

    42 minutes ago, Geek99 said:

    Why don’t you get a no load Fender tone pot? As stated above 

    standard size, normal looks but at “9” you can feel a very slight detente as the pot drops out of circuit and the signal bypasses it. 

     

    I have one in my bass doc p and it’s fabulous 

    http://www.northwestguitars.co.uk/cts-split-shaft-no-load-tone-potentiometer-250k-or-500k-for-stratocaster-telecaster-guitars/?utm_medium=googleshopping&utm_source=bc&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrouNv4Ld1wIVBLvtCh3xnggzEAQYASABEgLDrPD_BwE

     

    http://www.stringsdirect.co.uk//parts-c4/electronics-c698/potentiometers-c109/fender-no-load-250k-solid-shaft-pot-tone-p5295?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrouNv4Ld1wIVBLvtCh3xnggzEAQYBCABEgLciPD_BwE#fo_c=1949&fo_k=e8fe8947d3958445f1c907a1c89b6e87&fo_s=gplauk?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=

     

     

     

    Yeah, That's what I ended up going for. Like I mentioned above before ikay confirmed it, I wasn't sure if the load was the pot or just the cap. He confirmed what I had hoped and that's it ordered. Good to know that you put one in and it got good results. What pickup do you have in yours out of interest?

    Tone pot closest to no tone pot

    in Repairs and Technical

    Posted

    2 minutes ago, BassBunny said:

    It might be worth removing the the tone pot from the circuit completely first to see if it gives the required result as you are comparing 2 different instruments.

    The P pickup in yours might not be the same as the one in a Mark Hoppus.

    It should be as both my bass and his model are the SPB3. 

    Tone pot closest to no tone pot

    in Repairs and Technical

    Posted

    Cool. That did cross my mind but I'd be wiring it up myself and I've tried following diagrams for those with little success. Standard wiring with a little mod I can do. That was one of the reasons I thought a no-load tone pot might have the same effect at 10 and it wires in the same as a standard one. From what I've read on other posts it should be, am I right in thinking this?

    Tone pot closest to no tone pot

    in Repairs and Technical

    Posted

    Hi all. 

    I have a Precision fitted with a SPB3, pan pot and a tone pot. I think the tone pot is a 250k mini and the capacitor is not the original but I don't know the value. Anyway, I find the bass very dark sounding. I used to own a Mark Hoppus bass which wasn't and sounded great. I want to get close to that sound. On that bass there's no tone pot and it goes direct to volume then output jack. I'd like to retain a tone pot and pan pot (It's a PJ bass but I mainly use the P pickup) so can I do this and get close to the Mark Hoppus sound, if so how? I'm thinking 500k or 1meg but I could be way off, no load 250k maybe?

    Thanks for any help. G.

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