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Basvarken

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Everything posted by Basvarken

  1. Before I set to work on the pore filling I decided to make the hole for the rotary switch a bit wider. Not only for better access in the wiring process, but also because this was going to accommodate an Apple Air Tag. I made a hidden compartment in the back controls cover. Then did the pore filling prior to the staining. Stained the back, sides and neck in a dark mahogany color Stained the top red Sprayed several layers of clear After several layers of clear it was time to aplly the decals Just like the Brooks 1 that I built 14 years ago, this bass was ging to get a hidden tone knob. Why hidden? I like the clean look on the top side of a bass. And I very rarely use a Tone pot anyway. So I made a bracket from a sheet of aluminum And mounted it inside the controls cavity A little hole on the controls cover gives access to the tone pot. My good friend Sjoerd made a wiring diagram to my specs. And he took care of the soldering It's a clever switch! 1. Neck humbucker 2. Outer coils as humbucker 3. Both humbuckers 4. Neck humbucker + inner Bridge coil out of phase 5. Inner coils as humbucker 6. Bridge humbucker
  2. Took the finger plane and got to work to create the contouring of the top. Routed the pickup cavities Drilled the holes for the rotary switch ans Volume pot Dry fitted the neck. Started to look like proper bass already! Took the neck back out to work on the headstock. Glued the ebony faceplate on. Drilled the holes for the machine heads I always drill from two sides. Making the holes on the back a slightly narrower diameter. The Hipshot Ultralite tuners have a very small footprint, and if you drill the hole as wide as the bushing on the front you will see gaps. Made some paste with rosewood dust and wood glue to fill up the gaps underneath the fret tangs. Then did the final profiling of the neck While I test fitted the neck once again I noticed the string spacing of the bridge was not going to workout with the pickups. So I decided to buy a different bridge. Instead of the wide travel Thunderbrid bridge that I had planned originally I chose to use a Guyker two point bridge. The latter has a narrower string spacing, which would work better with the Mudbuckers. (Pic from another build) Then drilled the bridge stud holes. And string-through-body holes
  3. Switched back to the fretboard again Hammered in the frets. And made the trussrod access slot. Plus (rosewood) cover. Routed the trussrod slot in the neck blank. And chiseled the part for the spokewheel by hand. Glued the fretboard on (sorry again, no pics) And then made the side position markers Started the shaping of the neck. Using a Shinto raps, spokewheel plane and cabinet scraper. Routed the neck pocket And stated make the heel fit. Nowhere near yet in this pic 😉 Getting closer to the desire angle. Note how I have the bridge on a pice of brass to emulate the bridge stud thickness. Needed to create some extra height for this part of the binding
  4. Routed profile for the controls covers. Next I routed the channel for the binding. Note how thick the top was! Glued in the cream colored binding. Using acetone, because it leaves no glue residue that might affect the later staining.
  5. After that first channel was routed I started to work on the weight reduction. I was going to route a large tone chamber in the upper bout of the body. I first used Forstner bit to drill away most of the wood in that area. Then cleaned up the tone chamber with the router. Routed the hole for the rotary switch on the upper horn. And chiseled the last part of the channel away by hand Roughly cut out the outline shape. I weighed the body and came to the conclusion it was going to be too heavy. So I decided to do some more weight relief. Made sure i didn't drill where any structural parts would be mounted. Next step was to glue the thick flamed maple top onto the body And then routed along the body outline template. Sorry, no pics of the actual routing.
  6. About one year ago I got an email from a gentleman from France who had found my website and he asked me to do a remake of the Brooks 1. This is the very first bass I ever built. Based on my personal favorite: my 1969 Gibson Les Paul bass. Guillaume told me his new years resolution was to quit smoking. And as a reward for himself he wanted me to build this bass. In June he was confident he had quit smoking for good. And he placed the order. Since I was busy building two other bass guitars, I told him I would be able to start the build in the fall of this year. It gave me time to order all the parts and the wood. In october I started the actual build. First off was the fretboard. Made the ring inlay for the 12th position. I use an aluminum tube for this. And for the inside of the ring I made a rosewood circle. After that I drilled the holes for the regular dot inlays Glued the abalone dots and the aluminum ring in and sanded everything to the desired radius(16") At the FabLab I lasercut templates (the 15 year old templates were no longer usable) I used plexiglass. Laser cutting works extremely well with this material. And laser cutting MDF is not allowed, because it emits toxic gas. First thing I routed was the wiring channel which runs in a diagonal line across the body.
  7. The birth of a new Brooks bass: Ladies and Gentlemen I give you the Brooks 1.2. It's a remake of the very first bass I built (now 14 years ago). But with a few modifications. - 30 1/2" scale - Two piece mahogany body. Chambered - Flamed maple top. Bookmatched - Colour of the top: Wine red. - Colour of the back and neck: Walnut - Three piece mahogany neck - Dual action Spokewheel truss rod - Rosewood fretboard - Cream colored binding - Guyker two point bridge. - String through body ferrules - Hipshot tuners - Bone nut - Artec sidewinder humbuckers AlNiCo - 6 way rotary switch 1. Neck humbucker 2. Outer coils as humbucker 3. Both humbuckers 4. Neck humbucker + inner Bridge coil out of phase 5. Inner coils as humbucker 6. Bridge humbucker - Volume pot CTS 500k - Hidden Tone pot CTS 500k I'll post pics of the build process in several posts below.
  8. There was a time when I checked Ebay every day. Each time when I saw one of these pop up, I put a bid on it. And I won several auctions. But that was over 10 - 15 years ago. Haven't bought one in ages. Tried to build my own at a certain point, but that project never came to fruition... https://www.facebook.com/basvarken/videos/483578832934300
  9. And here's another. A short scale semi-acoustic bass from the Czech brand BaCH. Originally it had just one mudbucker at the neck. Just like an EB-2 I put two Gibson lo-z stacked humbuckers from a Les Paul Bass in it. Did not install a three position selector switch for the three coil taps on each pickup. But decided to only wire the full windings of each pickup. The toggle is to chose neck, both or bridge pickup.
  10. I used one of those in my modified Pearl Export Bass too. This Pearl originally was identical to the Epiphone Genesis Bass. With chrome cased humbuckers. But I replaced the original pickups with a Gibson lo-z stacked humbucker from a Les Paul Bass in the middle position. And a Gibson lo-z stacked humbucker for a Les Paul Recording Guitar in the bridge position. As you can see the guitar pickup is a bit smaller than the bass pickup.
  11. Yes, from a Gibson Les Paul Bass (aka Triumph)
  12. Last friday (october 11) I did a reunion gig with my old band Superfloor in LuxorLive, Arnhem. The band faded out like a night candle some 12 years ago. But yesterday we were on fire again 😉 Superfloor was always a band with just one guitarist. But for this unique occasion guitarists Frank van der Wiel and Jeffrey Migchelsen arranged the songs for two guitars. Like this song "I Want You To Leave" got a double lead part and a blistering solo duel. And here's another one called Get Out Of Here Plus some cool pics that our good friend Ariane took
  13. Basvarken

    Pairs

    My 1969 Gibson Les Paul Bass and my self built copy from 2015. The copy features Gibson lo-z guitar pickups instead of bass pickups.
  14. Basvarken

    Pairs

    Seems appropriate on this day where John Entwistle would have turned 80. Two Brooks Fenderbirds next to each other.
  15. Oh wow! The Brooks DDB (aka Double Duane Bird) is Bass Of The Week over @ NoTreble Such an honor to see my creation featured on their site! https://www.notreble.com/buzz/2024/10/07/bass-of-the-week-brooks-duane-double-bird/ Check it out (and maybe leave a comment at the bottom of the page 🤩 )
  16. Here's my modified Epiphone Jack Casady Signature bass. I was not impressed by the Electar pickup that Jack Casady developed in cooperation with Epiphone. He claimed it was much better than the original lo-z humbucker that Gibson used in the (original) Les Paul Signature Bass. I replaced it with a genuine Gibson stacked lo-z humbucker from a Les Paul bass. Inspired by the first edition of the Gibson Les Paul Signature bass with cream oval shaped pickup. In my opinion it is a huge improvement. The Gibson pickup has a more authoritative sound and better dynamic response.
  17. The Gibson IV is basically a Thunderbird in disguise. It has a mahogany body and neck. And TB+ humbuckers. Controls are VVT.
  18. The 12-string bridge set was custom made by ETS Hardware in Germany. And the 4-string set comes for Philadelphia Luthiers.
  19. It's really good quality. Just dirt cheap.
  20. I use really cheap rattle cans from a store called Action. €3 per can.
  21. I used a few coats of Nitrocellulose clear. And let that cure for a bit. Then switched to Acrylic. Because it's cheaper and easier to work with basically.
  22. And made the unavoidable vide demo...;-)
  23. When I started the build I was worried that I wouldn't be able to find a case that was large enough to fit this monster. But it turned out the Rockcase The Beast (by Warwick) is large enough. I happened to have one in my house for another build (an explorer bass). Laid it in the case and found out I only had to remove the little compartment in the left corner. So I ordered another one and modified that. Made a nice foam insert and put some velours fabric over it. I'm never going to be a real upholsterer, but it turned out quite nice The last step was done by my good friend Bas Becu (BQ Music). He is an electronics wizard. Although this was pretty straight forward electronics, he can do a much better job soldering the wiring than I can. So I asked Bas to do it for me.
  24. Drilled the holes for the bridges and tail stops Before I started the pore filling I decided to stain the bass red. Just to see if the red color that I had i mind would suit this bass. And as an advantage the red stain would also be good back up in case spraying the Candy Apple Red would not work out properly. I used Glitsa parquet varnish as a pore filler this time. After several layers of sanding sealer and nitro primer I sprayed three layers of Shoreline gold nitro. And then the transparent red to get the Candy Apple Red effect. After plenty of layers of clear coat I applied the decals. (yes I live in Velp) And signed the bass for Duane Applied the decals on the faceplates And after a few more layers of clear coat I sanded the entire bass with 1400, 2000 and 2500 grit. Then polished it. And mounted the hardware. Cut the two top nuts from buffalo horn
  25. Drilled a lot of holes... Two necks Shaped the heels for the neck pockets And after a lot of fitting (and cursing) they finally both fitted Then I weighed the bare ones bass to see what the sale would say... It weighed in a a disturbing 6.2 kilograms Without any hardware! So I decide to route ways some wood underneath the pickguard area. the bass lost 400 grams! Next step was the point of no return: glueing the necks in
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