stoo

2 hours ago, la bam said:

Excuse the poor phone edit, but you want something like this to keep the 2 paths separate.

 

Or get rid of all the Send blocks, hard pan left and right at the merge block and use the two main outputs for each path's output

1 hour ago, 41Hz said:

I'm still a bit on the fence whether to stick with the HXFX or go for a stomp.

I just looked up the the sansamp v1 manual and got the setting for an SVT sound, tried it on HXFX, it did sound fairly similar to what I remember when I tried the SVT model in the shop, but if any stomp owners want to try it and see how it compares to the built in SVT model, I'd be very interested.

They just gave knob positions in the sansamp manual, which I roughly translated to...

Drive = 5.0

Bass = 6.0

Treble = 4.5

Presence = 7.5

Blend = 10

level = 5.0

Interested how close this is to the SVT model.

Cheers!

It doesn't sound that similar (to my ears, with my bass and playing style at least) to any of the default settings for any of the SVT models.... I'd be fairly sure that with some tweaking of drive/master/eq parameters you could make the SVT models sound like the sansamp model..... but I'm not sure that's really helping any?

Have you considered downloading the Helix Native free trial? That way you could test any of the amp sim models available and see if there's anything that you prefer in those which you can't replicate with the sansamp model.....

6 minutes ago, 41Hz said:

Ah ok thanks, I guess its a pity you couldn't press say FS1 and FS2 together to do the bypass, as if you use FS3 then you are down to only 2 foot switches for changing presets which would be pretty tough. Sounds like the external foot switches are pretty essential if you want to gig with it

I don't really use the foot switches for changing presets - I wouldn't expect to need to change presets within a song, and don't mind bending down to twist the upper knob to pick a different preset between songs.

I tend to leave the foot switches in stomp or snapshot mode (depending on the preset) and that usually gives me plenty of flexibility to change sounds within a song.

I do have an external double footswitch, and a home made 8 switch midi controller.... but I rarely end up using either of them to be honest.

5 minutes ago, 41Hz said:

I tried the stomp today in the shop (I have an HX effects on a 14 day trial, which is about to expire, so wanted to see if I should swap)

It was a bit more fiddly to use vs the HXFX but on the flip side I did quite like the SVT amp sims.

The thing I was struggling with, is bypassing the unit when I don’t want any effects/amp sims. On the HXFX you just press the tuner+mode Footswitches together and it is completely bypassed. As far as I can tell you can’t bypass the stomp with the Footswitches. Is that correct? Not so practical in a gig to bend down and start pressing buttons to bypass it.

I think that might be the deal breaker for me unless anyone can advise a way to do it?

You can reassign FS3 (or FS4 / FS5 if you're using an external switch as well) to a few different functions, and All Bypass is one of the options....

Connect your battery via a toaster timer switch..... Give the dial a twist at the start of each song and then you've got 5 minutes before the battery automatically disconnects itself.

Obviously not suitable for metal, or any other genres with songs longer than 5 minutes!

6 minutes ago, Rik (ESA) said:

Hi all, sorry if this is answered elsewhere... 

I currently have the HX stomp, and a smooth audio wireless. I'm looking to add the morningstar midi pedal and a small Di box, and am interested in people's views on both a suitable Di box, ideally under £100, and views on best options to power the whole board? 

Many thanks, 

Rick 

Do you need a DI box? The stomp has a balanced output capability, so you can just use a 1/4" TRS to XLR adaptor...

I have heard of some people thinking a DI box might be necessary to protect against the possibility of any phantom power issues, but I'm not sure how likely it is that it would be an issue?

Selling a 100w Hiwatt head in the 90s to a mate for £40, a year or two before the internet arrived to educate me that it's actual value might have been slightly higher than that....

7 hours ago, dave_bass5 said:

Am i right in thinking that will all blocks off im getting the true unaffected signal (assume Global FX are flat as well)?

Not necessarily - there's some stuff that happens in the input and output blocks at each end of the chain, and those blocks can't be switched off.

You can press both upper and lower knobs at the same time to put it in full bypass though. Also, as an added complication, there's two different types of full bypass.... analog bypass uses relays to completely bypass everything, and DSP bypass has the signal still routing through the processor so that delay/reverb trails continue. You can pick which one in the Global Settings-> Preferences menu

1 hour ago, dave_bass5 said:

Still loving my Stomp. Its making life more complicated as I’m forever jumping,on switches now, but it’s good fun. 

2 questions.

When using an amp sim, or rig sim, where you do put it? My mind thinks at the end, just like pedals in to a rig. Is this what most do? I must admit ive not got in to splitting the chain yet, my needs are quite modest at the moment. 

The second is, does anyone use a different PSU, but still in stand alone mode and not a pedal board? I could do with something slightly smaller, and something that doesn’t fall apart when I unplug it from the wall  (Might superglue it together)

I usually put the amp/cab/IR blocks at or near the end of the chain - sometimes I'll put delay/reverb/compression afterwards.... I just play around with it in HX edit and see what I like better.

I'm no fan of the stock PSU either - I went with a slightly less permanent option than superglue though!

6 hours ago, GarethFlatlands said:

I'll have to have a proper read when I'm feeling a bit more clever, I've been wondering how easy it would be to make a footswitch operated MIDI keyboard to scratch that Rush itch and trigger synth sounds while playing bass but didn't know where to start!

Shouldn't be too tricky to adapt it to send MIDI notes instead of Program Change / Control Change messages, but there's bound to be loads of guides showing you how to build a DIY Arduino MIDI keyboard with code that you could steal more easily.....

On 28/08/2019 at 06:54, Gottastopbuyinggear said:

The knock off boards use a different serial chip - if you haven’t already done so you’ll need to download a CH340G driver. 

I don’t think the baud rate should matter too much - I’d try either 9,600 or 38,400.  It’s one of the preferences you can set in the arduino development environment software - I can’t recall exactly where at the moment but a quick google search would probably yield the info.

I don't think I had to download an alternate driver to get mine working.... Not 100% certain as it was a while ago, but I've set it up on two different PCs and I *think* it'd have rung a bell if I'd have had to do that...

Are you able to select the board, processor and port OK in the Arduino IDE? (under the Tools menu)

6 hours ago, TheRockinRoadie said:

Really interested in making one of these...

Sorry to ask ask a dumb question, but am I right in thinking it’s powered via the USB? In which case, what’s the best way of powering the unit at a gig, via a USB phone charger?

 

Cheers, Lorry

The way I did it is USB power only, but you could always add a battery holder to the enclosure and hook that up to the VIN & GND pins on the Arduino.

I use a mains USB phone charger with mine

13 hours ago, Bafflegab said:

I've got my beady eye on one of these, found it on ebay, £8.  Too skint until payday but I think I'll get one then

Screwfix do some similar kind of containers & some are even cheaper than that...

https://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/organisers/cat831376#category=cat831376&sort_by=price

19 hours ago, Al Krow said:

Hah! Not at all...it was based on this following comment from Stoo..

But it seems to me from your screen grab that all is in order 😊 and that Andertons caused a bunch of confusion by pairing the back of the 800 model with the front of the 1200 model.

i.e. the 800 is 800W at 4ohms and lower impedances. 

@fretmeister what did you think of the comparison on the EBS Reidmar YT video?

Weird - I was sure I'd seen the ratings from GK themselves, so I went back and had a look... In the comments of this thread

Quote

Gallien-Krueger Rich Fell 1200 through 2, 800 through 4, 400 through 8

Admittedly that was about the Fusion models rather than the Legacy ones, but I'd assumed they would all use the same power section. Maybe they don't, or maybe they've updated them all since last year....??

20 hours ago, cetera said:

 

They've posted the wrong rear photo. That must be the Legacy800 model....

 

I don't think so - I remember reading before that they're quoting the 2 ohm rating as the headline power figure for the new line, but if you're using a 4 ohm or greater load, the new 1200 / 800 / 500 range is essentially equivalent to the old 800 / 500 / 200 models in terms of output. 

2 hours ago, Woodinblack said:

Well, that would be handy I suppose, but not really what I am after, as the stomp is also no good to me due to a lack of blocks (although specifically in the stomps case, also a lack of buttons). I am more after full helix capabilities, ie, extra DSP capacity in something the size (and button count) of the HX Effects.

Basically I want a helix that is small enough I can use on a pedalboard. I am thinking the HX Effects size is about as small as you can get away with, or maybe a bit smaller (6 buttons),

I assume as with all things, it is just a matter of time

2 stomps at once?

19 hours ago, CameronJ said:

So true. Line 6 have had so many snarky comments, memes, jokes etc aimed at them re: the pending release of firmware v2.8

Surely the thing to do is keep quiet until it’s ready, then BAM! Hit ‘em with a nice surprise and get the community excited about the product all over again.

I don't see any harm in teasing updates with a rough idea of the timeline - but if you're going to do that you need to provide some updates if that timeline is going to slide.... If the target you've set yourself has passed and you've not said anything at all, it's understandable that some people are going to get a bit irked.

19 hours ago, Woodinblack said:

Im guessing there are no rumours of new products then - seems a while that they have been out now. I am still waiting for my 'helix in a hx effects footprint' box!

 

There was a presentation from the Line 6 guys a while ago - I think it might have been a NAMM one - where they were talking about some 2.8 features, and while talking about the new Helix Core stuff the presenter said "no amp sims on HX effects....... YET"... so it's possible they are looking at bringing the HX effects up to HX stomp type capabilities at some point...

On 11/06/2019 at 16:42, Chiliwailer said:

I’m using a stereo lead, but I have s feeling it can be used with a mono lead by assigning ring and tip functions. 

You can download the manual pdf, it may explain more. In total I’m fairly sure you can add up to 4 switches or a combination of switches and expression pedals. But yes, more money and footprint kind of defeats the object eh? 

You can use a mono lead, but only for a single external switch.... If you use a mono lead to a dual switch the ring and sleeve contacts will be shorted and only one of the switches would work.

Just now, EBS_freak said:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F362645443286

use these to keep with standard cables. 2 spare too... perfect.

Those pics show a TS jack rather than a TRS one...... so they wouldn't be balanced...

1 minute ago, Graham said:

I foresee a delicate discussion with the wife coming on.....

I've just seen that there's no XLR out, I'd assumed there was; how are you guys connecting it to the PA? DI box, or unbalanced jack cable?

It's got balanced out via TRS jacks so you can get a TRS to XLR cable and not need a DI box

You can set it so that two footswitches are used for preset up/down, and the other toggles an effect within a patch.

The built in tuner isn't an effect block, and doesn't require a dedicated patch. The default setup is to have footswitch 3 as a tap/tempo switch, but you don't need to have this..... but if you don't, then you'd need to press the action and page right buttons together to engage the tuner (or use an external footswitch or midi controller). I normally have FS3 setup as a regular effect block toggle - I don't usually need to retune so frequently that bending down to press the buttons by hand is much of an inconvenience.

Switching between patches does cause a brief pause in output. It's pretty quick though (about 0.1s), so assuming you're going to change patches between notes rather than in the middle of one it's not likely to be an issue.

If it is, you might be able to use the Snapshot feature to workaround this... you could have a single patch with an amp sim, an envelope filter a fuzz pedal and whatever else in it, and then have 3 snapshots setup within that patch so for example -

snapshot 1 could be the amp set to a clean sound,

snapshot 2 could be same clean sound but with the envelope filter engaged as well,

snapshot 3 could have the envelope filter off, fuzz pedal on, and also up the gain and back off the master volume on the amp sim.

You can add 3rd party IR .WAVs via the HX edit software - you can load up to 128 onto the Stomp, but it's worth being careful about how they're named before you add them in, as you only get to see the 1st 16 or so characters of the filename. If you use HX edit you can still see the whole filename, but on the stomp screen itself there's only so much room... but if you're tweaking sounds away from your computer, it can be tricky to pick between 100 different variants of "CelestionGreenb" or whatever

52 minutes ago, urbanx said:

Speaking with zero experience of them, and only opinion, but... If I'm chucking around my bass enough to shear screws, will a thin rubber grommet really stop my strap coming off?  

Depends what you're doing with it. If you're pulling the strap away from the body parallel to (or at least fairly near to) the orientation of the screw, there is a chance that the rubber washer type solution can pop off the strap button.

I can't see myself ever doing that, so it's never been much of a concern for me.

As to shearing the screws, the problem I can see with mechanical straplocks like schaller ones is that they move the strap further away from the body, and so provide additional leverage to bend the screw head, which over time will weaken it. Also, the screws that come with the schallers tend to be slightly smaller in diameter than standard strap peg screws, so that the head fits in the recess in the peg - but slightly longer to compensate. So they're weaker from the get go... and then if they get put in a hole made for a larger diameter screw, only the very tip is biting into the wood effectively, and the end nearer the surface already has a tiny bit of wiggle room.... so that every time it gets any lateral force applied to it the screw bends a bit before hitting the edge of the hole... which ends up weakening it faster.

Since switching to the fender branded grolsch washers I've had no issues and I've no plans to switch to anything else...

3 hours ago, PaulWarning said:

one thing does puzzle me about the need for a Thumpinator (and I agree you don't want low end crud) if it's inaudible why wouldn't amp designers design their amps not to produce it, after all it's soaking up power to no obvious benefit

Something I've read somewhere, (but have no idea how accurate it is) is that combining loud distorted tones with excessive HPF use can cause the driver to overheat in some situations as all the movement (and hence power and heat dissipation is concentrated around a small section of the coil.

Seems plausible enough, but no idea how likely it is to be a real cause for concern?

On 14/02/2018 at 14:49, knicknack said:

Updated!

I know you've already started a Spotify playlist for this, but I didn't when I started another one.... and because I'd started from the beginning of the "part 1" thread, I've ended up with a 503 song / 42 hour monster playlist.

Ah well, at least I will have a decent playlist ready for my next road trip! 

I dunno if you'd rather merge them all into yours so save having two lists on the go at the same time? If so, I'll happily delete my one or make it private again or whatnot?

In the meantime - in case it's of interest to anyone - here it is-