stoo

20 hours ago, CameronJ said:

Bloody hell. I think I speak for a few people when I say you might have a market in building and selling more of these footswitch controllers in various configurations. Good work sir!

Cheers! I'm not that convinced I'd want to build a load of them, but I'd definitely be up for helping anyone out that wanted to do something similar for themselves. More than happy to share wiring diagrams and the code I used, and can guide people through how to tweak them for different configurations.

As long as you can get/make/modify a suitable box to house it in, and can solder wires to the tabs on the switches and midi socket, there's really nothing tricky about making one of these. Mine has a soldered circuit board in it, but it's not really needed - you can get a ready made adaptor board so all the fiddly soldering bits are replaced with nice easy screw terminals.

I've had my stomp for a couple of weeks now - and while it sounds great, I've been finding the three footswitch implementation a bit limiting. Even the old Zoom B3 managed to let you use the same 3 switches for stomp on/off, patch selection and tuner access...

So I raided the spare parts drawer and knocked up a double footswitch to let me cycle through stomp/scroll/preset/snapshot modes on one switch, and tap/tuner on the other. It works OK, and it at least made controlling the thing from my feet just about viable, if still a fairly clumsy affair.

And then I kept noticing mentions of the Morningstar MC6.... looks like a great bit of kit, but I couldn't justify the price - especially as once I've got more used to the Stomp and got sounds and settings dialled in, I may well be happy with just using the stomp on its own or with the double footswitch..... So back to the spare parts drawer it is then..... A bit of 3d printing, soldering, crimping and (quite a lot of) swearing later, I present the Afternooningstoo MC8 !

OK, so it's a bit rough and ready compared to the real one, but it works, it's got even more buttons, and I think it only owes me about £30 in parts total.... and the only thing I had to buy in specially was the MIDI socket!

7 hours ago, OzMike said:

I think there's a config option that determines whether the external connections operate as a switch or expression pedal; perhaps the second one is set to 'Expression' instead of 'Momentary' (or something similar)?

Yep - it's global settings -> preferences -> EXP/FS Tip which needs to be set to FS4 instead of EXP1

On 09/02/2019 at 09:35, la bam said:

Is there any trick to loading in IR cabs?

I've downloaded and uploaded 3sigma pack, but struggling loading the ir cabs?

Worked OK for me - haven't tried any from 3sigma, but have done some guitar ones from redwire and another couple of randoms I found links to on youtube videos.

Click on impulses above the left column where the preset list normally is.

Click on an empty slot, and then click import at the top.

Browse to the IR file you want and then click open. 

Then go back to your preset, add an IR block. 

The top parameter in the IR block list lets you choose from any of the impulses you have imported.

The only thing I can think of maybe is that you've downloaded a ZIP file with several IRs in.... you'll need to extract that so that HX edit can see the WAV files - it can't import a ZIP directly

GK MB200 might be worth a look as well? 

My B3 seems to work fine still and windows is all up to date on my PC, so it's possible the windows update is a coincidence.

Have you tried using a different USB cable and/or connecting to a different USB port on your PC?

If you look in "Device Manager" on your PC (quickest way to get to it is to right-click on the start menu)  does the B3 show up? On mine it appears under "Audio inputs and outputs", "Software devices", and "Sound, video and game controllers". Possibly in other places as well, but those are the ones I've spotted so far. 

If it's a driver issue, they may show up but with a yellow exclamation mark - sometimes you can get some useful information by right clicking and selecting properties...

Did you apply the B3 firmware update from the laptop OK?

31 minutes ago, spencer.b said:

Listening to the album on headphones last night and Love is a beautiful thing sounds like a P to me, does Joe ever play one? Definitely doesn't sound like the musicman

He's definitely played a short scale P on some of their stuff...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUyuGjLy4BQ

2 hours ago, kyuuga said:

Musicman is also being very naïve because they understimate how much people value the brand's name on their guitar. If they renamed the Ray34 into a Musicman Stingray (even if it was made in Indonesia) they'd see its sales go up through the roof. But of course they highly regard quality and they want every Stingray to be through safe QC and I respect that.

The Ray 34  has already had its headstock logo changed to StingRay... https://sterlingbymusicman.com/pages/stingray-ray34 

They've still got the Sterling by Musicman logo though, which is the bit that makes the least sense to me..... but then Sterling (the person) said that no-one would get Sterling (the company) confused with Sterling (the model), so no need to worry. 🙄

I'd love one of the new Stingrays but the price point puts me out of the running.... It wasn't that long ago they were knocking out those 133 series 2EQ rays for under a grand.... you'd think the new ones would be cheaper seeing as they're saving the cost of a screw for each neck joint

On 28/04/2018 at 11:02, drdashdot said:

 

External midi control allows patch change but the ZPI also can control effect parameters (including expression pedal control of any parameter), control other midi pedals, control of DAW, control Zoom pedals by DAW, master tempo control/tap tempo and probably some other stuff I've overlooked.  It becomes very useful when you have more than one pedal under midi control - a single footswitch can make multiple changes on multiple pedals.
It looks like the n-series looper also is controllable by midi (unlike older Zoom pedals.)
Very interesting ... a day ago I was ignoring the n series pedals. Now, maybe not.

(and yes, midi control makes the B3n much more powerful, with the right controller.)

 

Have you ever had any luck controlling the n series pedals?

I'm having a go at modifying an old wah pedal to work with my G3n as an expression pedal, and would like the toe switch to be able to toggle the pedal effect on and off.

So far I've got an Arduino able to make patch changes to either my B3 or my MS-60B using a USB host shield and code based on https://github.com/vegos/ZoomG3_ArduinoMIDI .... but the G3n doesn't seem to respond to the same Program Change message.

I guess my next step is to try and work out how to use a USB sniffer and see what GuitarLab is sending to the pedal....

I definitely don't need one of these.

i've got a Zoom B3 and a G3n which cover all my tone shaping needs and more... and while a one-box solution would be slightly more convenient, I don't gig on guitar and rarely need or use anything more than a tuner for the gigs I do on bass.

So the real question is....... will I be able to hold out until the price drops a bit before splashing out on one?

1 hour ago, Jack said:

I can confirm that 1200W through two BB2s (albeit self-powered in my case) is quite a thing to stand in front of.

I've done it a couple of times. Whenever we play somewhere new I'll always take both cabs, even though I normally leave one in the car. We turned up at this tiny bar so I used one cab for myself to cover the whole venue and we put the other on a  stand. That one 600W cab did 4 vocals, a kick drum and some bass barely ticking over. I've only ever used both as a recorded music PA, but the two of them did a pretty rocking disco for about 200 people.

Sounds ideal!

1 hour ago, Jack said:

Hearing damage 🙂

Well I wasn't planning on standing right in front of em when they're cranked right up....... well, not for long anyway 😛

It's more the PA side of things that I was thinking of - for bass in mono even the XLS1002 looks like plenty as it'll bridge to 1100W @ 4 ohm if I'm running both cabs, or 700W @ 8 ohm if just one.

It's not even that I really need a new amp - our drummer has a small PA which is up to most of the gigs we do where PA isn't provided by the venue.... but it's always irked me that I've got these whopping PA cabs that end up sat at the back of the stage just ticking over most of the time. It'd be nice to be able to use his PA just for monitors, and stick the Barefaceds out front.

Also, the inner child in me just wants to find out what they'd be capable of given a big enough amp

11 hours ago, joeystrange said:

Actually, it was just really badly written and everyone answered in the way I intended. It’s the cab that I want to put on top of the flight case.

I’ve edited the post, thanks for pointing it out!

Fair enough - happy days!

Not sure if I've read this wrong, but it looks to me like the OP was asking about putting the cab on the floor as normal, then putting the flightcase for the head on the cab, and then the head on top of the flightcase..... and then folks are answering as if he was talking about getting a flightcase for the cab, putting that on the floor, and then the cab on the flightcase.....?

Hi all,

I've got a pair of Barefaced Big Baby 2s which I normally power with a GK MB500... sometimes on its own, sometimes with a Zoom B3 straight into the FX return. No problems with volume, although on the odd occasion I've only taken one cab, I have sometimes had to push the GK preamp into dirtier territory than I'd prefer.

When I ordered the cabs, I got them with pole mount top hats, so I could potentially use them as a PA pair, but I never got round to getting a suitable power amp to drive them. I'm just trying to work out what I'd need to make the most of the cabs.... judging by barefaced's recommended amp power page, something between 600 and 800W seems appropriate.

Crown XLS stuff seems to get recommended a lot, so I had a look there, .... the 1002 or 1502 look great for a mono stack, or single cab in bridge mode, but even the 2502 only goes up to 2x440W @ 8ohm and is already up to £485

If I forgo the weight savings of class D and look at the XLi3500, that overhits it on power at 2x1000W @ 8ohm, and is about £630.... but at that sort of price point I'd be tempted to just trade my BB2s in for FR800s or some RCF ART 712s or something similar.

Behringer NX6000 looks promising, claiming 2x 1600W into 8 ohm for less than £300, but presumably that's some sort of peak marketing watts rather than continuous rms honest watts? I've read various reports suggesting divide those figures by anywhere up to 4 to get a realistic number, so we're back down to 400w a side...

Is there something i'm missing here? At the moment it looks like the most cost effective option is getting a pair of XLS1002s and running both of them bridged, one per cab.... but that just seems like a mad way of doing it. Is there something else that might fit the bill better?

Cheers,

Stu

On 27/10/2018 at 18:51, SurroundedByManatees said:

 

I bought this bass thinking it was active (didn't know about the passive ones), as a cheaper option for a 2eq Stingray. So the passive version is not exactly what I'm after.

 

I did the exact same thing.... I ended up routing mine out for a battery box and dropped in a John East preamp. It was a really easy job to do, and now I've got the bonus of having the 2EQ sound but with an extra sweepable mid control. Could be worth a thought if you've got access to a router...

20 hours ago, SuperSeagull said:

A Zenta EB copy bought in 1977 from Minns Music in Brighton. It was £35 and I saved up for it at a £1 a week from my paper round plus a bit of birthday money. Sold it to a teacher at my school a couple of years later when I got a Craftsman Jazz from Macaris. 

Me too! Although mine was bought at a car boot sale in the 90s... 

10 hours ago, ezbass said:

Although I am currently MM-less, here are my previous 'Rays:

 

That white fretless SUB looks good! 😉

It needed some more Stingray shaped company though, so it now takes the place of the black Sterling SUB in this photo, which has got handed down to the other half's kid. The P bass in the back has long gone, and the only reason the Jazz hasn't been sold is that I keep forgetting it exists.... must dig it out at some point!

I occasionally have some half-hearted GAS for a 5 string or a Bongo - or maybe even a 5 string Bongo - but it never gets to the point I feel the need to get the wallet out...

I take it the holes that are oversized are the ones in the neck?

Would it not be worth getting some dowels glued in the holes and then redrilling at the right size?

It's easy to sort now, but it'd be a nightmare if it all let go once it was up to tension....

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1495733472' post='3306251']
If all the coils are different impedances in order to balance the string volume will it be completely humbucking?
[/quote]

If the difference between the impedance of each adjacent coil is the same across all of them, wouldn't you still get full humbucking if the centre two were polarised one way and the outer two polarised the other?

[quote name='lojo' timestamp='1492017743' post='3277261']
Anyone ever had a stingray go silent at a gig ?
[/quote]

Just once.... but that had more to do with me being trusting enough to leave it on stage between sound check and when we were due to go on. While we'd gone to go grab some food, some cheeky twunt had swiped the battery out of my bass!Valuable lesson learned!

This happens for me too..... doesn't seem to be every time I'm on BC, but it does only seem to be BC that triggers it.

I've got one that looks very similar to that... Mine's branded Zenta though.

Same rubbish bridge too


The pickup in mine was shot when i got it (sometime in the early 90s) and got replaced with a super cheap guitar pickup with no exposed pole pieces. The rest of the loom got replaced sometime later based off a 60s EB circuit i found somewhere on t'internet.

Sounded ok to my ears at the time - at least for as long as it held my interest... Which admittedly wasn't very long. Think it's still in the shed somewhere!

[quote name='molan' timestamp='1483985352' post='3211725'] The HD is a ceramic speaker so that's where the weight is coming from. The lighter weight Berg 2x10 is the new(ish) HDN model http://bergantino.com/product/hdn210-loudspeaker/ That comes in at 33lbs / 15KG The previous model was the CN which is the same weight but voiced a bit differently and with a 'carbon-like' finish. [/quote]

Ah - fair enough - was just going by the model number in the thread title...

[quote name='keeponehandloose' timestamp='1483967841' post='3211467']
Big baby 2 is light as a feather..love mine. Its 8 ohm though so check your output for that.
[/quote]

[quote name='markstuk' timestamp='1483967932' post='3211468']
So is the berg from what I recall ..
[/quote]

I suspect you're referring to the impedance, but in case it was the weight....

According to http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/Berg_HD_112_210_410_212.html the Berg HD210 is 54lbs / 24.5kg

According to http://barefacedbass.com/product-range/Big-Baby-2.htm the BB2 is 13kg/29 lbs with the steel grill and even lighter with the cloth....