la bam

16 minutes ago, Dad3353 said:

 

Better than white is a pair of Par's or equivalent, one each side oriented towards the opposite corner of the stage area. One with a very pale orange/straw filter (Lee 205...), the other with a very pale blue filter (Lee 201...). This gives frontal lighting with a slight contrast each side of the band's faces, with no blinding beam directly in their eyes. Placed forward of the front of stage, as high as reasonably possible, angled across at 45°. Much better than plain white. Just sayin'; my 'Tip Of The Day'. 

I completely agree.

1 hour ago, uk_lefty said:

This is what our stage looked like last time with our own lighting out... The weird spotty light thing in one of the pics was part of the venue house lighting which was a bit of an eBay Mish mash by the look of it. Our own lighting is the colour up the walls and the green and blue side fillers on the stage.

Great advice, thank you.

That's nice and colourful, all you need to do on top of that is light the band in white from the front.

It's the one thing nearly everyone forgets to do. 

Add some plain white light to light up the band members and the colours will still work great at the back.

Fair play, that does sound great.

Just roll the vle and vpf to off, cut a bit off bass, add in some high mid and treble. That should give you a clearer more sterile rumble sound. 

Then gradually change each week to however you like it.

It may well be the bass on the mb that's different to their ears. In fairness it is quite deep when at noon.

No top of the tops to me means no representation of the countrys feeling through music.

Without a mainstream national music program, it's harder to get music of the people / sign of the times into the national public eye.

Hence without looking I guess the charts is still full of forgettable drivel rather than any meaningful lasting social representation of the times.

Evening all,

Jason anyone any experience of the fender super bassman 300?

Any opinions on sound, weight, reliability etc

Love stories like that. It's great when the guys at the top of their game are super nice to people. Great stuff!

2 hours ago, Jonse said:

Digging the curtains matching the drapes 😉

 

This thing kicks. V4b + SVT 212av. 

That's the epitome of a cool rig!

Could you just use IEMs?

Are Hartke coming out with anything new, or still struggling?

1 hour ago, Muzz said:

 

Yep, there's three, though it has a Bass, Mid and Treble control as well - I leave the other Parametrics pretty much flat, but that left hand one is the 'HPF' one...

Nice! I like that.

1 hour ago, Muzz said:

There's been a (semi)parametric on the Walkabout, and the M-Pulses (it even says 'Semi-Parametric' on those) for decades, and the newish WD800 too...I've always liked it, especially as dialling back the bass one with both knobs on the Walkabout (-15db at 30Hz) gives a rather useful HPF-like effect...

Is that a dial on all of the 3 - Bass, treble, and mids? It's the ability to shift the bass frequency I like the idea of. I'll have a look if so.

25 minutes ago, krispn said:

Skip to about 2:50 for audio

Looks lovely. 

Isnt that just mids that are adjustable though? (Quite difficult to see on my phone).

The wharfedale had bass, miss and high adjustable frequencies.

4 hours ago, warwickhunt said:

 

It's not really a dilemma or a big issue.  It is a simple fact that valves are more fragile than solid state and a 'little' more care needs to be taken.  I was always lead to believe that the power up/down sequence simply lengthened the life of the valves.  I have to confess that I've learned a bit re. the standby / cooling down period.  I tended to think that standby for a minute or two just allowed the valves to cool gradually; going from full hot gig temperature to cool down a bit in standby mode and then full cool down when 'off'. 

 

For me, common sense said you simply did everything gradually; take it into a gig from a cold van/exterior and give it a while to come to ambient, power up in standby, full power on to play... and then just reverse that to take it home.  I've never timed how I do such things, just whatever happened naturally.    

That's what I got told off the guy that designed the valve amps I had. He also suggested as you switch it off and its powering down, hit your bass strings to help discharge (I presume) the capacitors.

I've just got the blackstar bass 2. To be fair its excellent. Gain, tone, vol, adjustable drum patterns and an aux in for phone etc.

11 minutes ago, Downunderwonder said:

No exact about it. You implied leaving it on standby while doing the whole teardown.

No I didnt. I implied not to turn it off straight away. But feel free to argue with yourself.

1 hour ago, Downunderwonder said:

 

I reckon the valves would be a fair bit more cooled down if you turned it off after a minute of fan cooling down from war volume and then the natural convection minus further heating.

Exactly what I was saying. Dont just turn it straight off, leave it for a minute or two in stand by, then turn off.

If you put (the valve amps I've had) it in stand by at the end of the night, it keeps the fans on to assist and speed up the cooling process before switching off and moving.

As others have said previously hartke really missed the boat class d wise. Their classic preamp, valve/as mix and eq and graphic, alongside a class d power section would be awesome.

2 hours ago, warwickhunt said:

Now that looks quality!

1 hour ago, Downunderwonder said:

Far from unique. SWR were doing parametric in the 90's. Ashdown might be the only surviving major bass amp maker that was doing it but there's a few fancy modern digital modeling amps and preamps these days with parametric up the wazoo.

 

57 minutes ago, 3below said:

Peavey bass combos, also heads e.g. Centurion, Standard of the early 1980s had a parametric mid. 

Yes, lots with parametric mids, but never seen a parametric for each of bass, mid, high. In theory it should really open up an amp.

Evening all 

Just looking around at different amps and set ups - as you do....

I came across an older wharfedale 300w solid state head. Had a host of features on it, but one that took my eye. Instead of the usual 3 band eq, it had 6 dials. On closer inspection they were bass, mid, hi, but next to each one was a completely adjustable parametric eq dial for that frequency area.

I think that's a great idea, so you know what you are boosting or cutting and not reliant on more determined eq centre points.

Anyone else ever come across this on an amp?

I had one, gigged with it to test it (with PA support) and thought it was great. Great sound, great quality, and just enough to juice left to gig with in a very full on band.

I put larger rubber feet on, which helped the air cooling massively.

5 minutes ago, thisisswanbon said:

Completely agree with you from a volume stand point, my concerns were more with a wattage thing than a volume thing.  My head is 1000w at 4ohm, and 600w at 8ohm.  All of Mark Bass's compact 8ohm cabs seem to stop at 400w so I'd be forever scared of burning them out.

Nah, nothing to worry about there. You wont even get close to 1000w.

1 hour ago, thisisswanbon said:

After doing a bit of digging, I was nailed on going for 2 x 210 cabs and vertically stacking; but it doesn't look like they do a 210 cab powerful enough for my head... I have the LM vintage 1000, and all of their 210 8 ohm cabs seem to stop at 400w 🤦‍♂️ and Andertons is out of stock of the 500 watt version until November so can't even exchange... looks like a 410 will be the way to go after all.  Going to hold out for the new MB58R cab reviews start coming through though they look great!

x2 210 traveller cabs is more than enough. I've used them on big stages with a 500w head, and only had the master around 9pm on the dial.