dannybuoy

Using a PCB for a true bypass loop seems like too much hard work though... There are no components apart from the switch/jacks/LED, which are all mounted to chassis, so you just wire them up point-to-point.

...

I thought it was designed for Samuel L Jackson...

My OC-2 is shivering in the corner right now, wishing it had true bypass and a blue LED...

I have to agree, nobody in their right mind would pay £240 for a bypass strip unless it had relay switching, MIDI control, was gold plated, and blessed by Jesus. Check these out:

[url="http://www.loop-master.com/"]http://www.loop-master.com/[/url]

I think the pitch shifter would sound a bit artificial and is probably overkill, a bit like trying to kill a fly with a bazooka. Why not just use a capo at the 4th fret for playing in E?

You'd be better off going in with some kind of preamp / amp-sim too, like a Sansamp, EBS Microbass, Tonehammer, Line6 POD, Zoom B2.1u, etc. Most of these have an XLR output on them so can be used in place of a DI box. If you're going direct, you may not like the sound of your overdrive/distortion/fuzz pedals as they will have a lot of high frequency content that gets rolled off by a typical bass amp, but will be heard through a PA. For that reason, an amp-sim can be great as they typically roll off the highs to simulate a speaker.

I have a Sansamp VT Bass which I recommend to you if you like the traditional Ampeg sound. It doesn't have an XLR output but you'll get away with just hooking it up to the PA without a DI box.

If you play 2 basses in the same gig, then the Bassbone is worth a look too:

[url="http://www.tonebone.com/tb-bassbone.htm"]http://www.tonebone.com/tb-bassbone.htm[/url]

I thought where it says A+B it means A&B in parallel, and A->B means the footswitch switches between A, then B, then bypass? :ph34r:

If you don't need an EQ then look at the Electronix Submarine preamp. I would definitely look at the tone hammer as it's similar to the Aguilar preamps found in some active basses. If you're trying to get a clean modern punchy active sound then I would steer clear of the DHA and Sansamp stuff, which are better At copping warm slightly overdriven tube tones.

If you can't afford the Compact, look out for a 2nd hand Orange OBC-115, they're meant to sounds great. Also the Trace 1153, but it's rated at only 200W compared to 400W for the Orange. Both get glowing reviews in this 1x15 shootout:

[url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=358077&highlight=1x15+shootout"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.p...t=1x15+shootout[/url]

But not many multis can do this sort of paralell chaining... I know the Boss GT-10B can though.

I want to get a Boss LS-2 to try out some parallel chains... although it can only give you 2 chains of course. I've also seen somebody use mini Rolls mixers like these (but I think these mixers are passive and wou would be better off with active ones to prevent issues with your chains having different impedances):



Hope Ric5 at Talkbass doesn't mind me posting the image!

Maybe not all OC-2s are created equal... or my Mammoth clone is slightly different to a proper Mammoth!

But back to the original topic, I can give some of my rules of thumb...

- I have my fuzzes first in line as they sound better without a buffered pedal inbetween
- I have my octave next as I prefer it that way and can get away with the slightly worse tracking; although it also sounds good before the fuzz it's buffer really changes the sound of the Mammoth and prevents me from controlling the oscillation from the Supercollider Beast with my volume knob
- Then I have OD / distortion... so I can at least get some 'octave-before-dirt' sounds
- I have my filter after my fuzz/distortion as I prefer the synthy sounds it gives
- Next is the VT Bass; after distortions as it smooths them out, after the filter as the peaks overdrive the VT nicely, and before compression/modulation/delay so it's more like a typical amp - fx loop - rack order of effects
- Then compression; I want full touch sensitivity from my dirt pedals, filter and VT, and want to tame the filter peaks so it goes near the end
- Then chorus. Goes near the end so the effect doesn't get muddied by the other pedals; also it's a bass chorus that only affects the highs, and the dirt/filter pedals produce lots of nice upper frequency content for the chorus to work with
- Last is delay/looper so I can make loops with the other FX on/off and also have the option of using the stereo outputs. Compressor before delay so it doesn't squash the delay trails; although I would consider a comp/limiter after the delay if using crazy oscillation and feedback!

Now this is quite a lot of FX I know... but I'm a bedroom knob twiddler these days and have this chain setup for fun and experimentation! It's always good to have a reason for putting them in a certain order, and to make sure you've tried as many options as possible before settling down on the velcro.

Markbass CMD121P combos can be found second hand for £500, and there's a 121H for sale (slightly taller but better sounding) in the classifieds right now for £500. It's basically the much raved about Markbass LMII head in an amazingly light and loud combo. Highly recommended, although much less dirty and coloured sound than what you're used to getting from the Ashdown I imagine. But you can always dirty up a clean amp with a pedal like the VT Bass!

[quote name='thisnameistaken' post='423292' date='Mar 2 2009, 03:11 PM']But doesn't that make your OC-2 spit and splutter as it fails to track properly?

I like the octave down blended with other effects too, so I had the OC-2 on one side of an LS-2 for a while, so it had a clean signal to track. I've tried it after other effects like fuzzes and dynamic filters and it just doesn't work very well.[/quote]

It's marginally worse on some really low notes, but it tracks really well, especially on sustained notes due to the sustain added by the fuzz. I've tried it with a Supercollider and Wolly Mammoth, both work well before the OC-2.

It's always good to ignore rules of thumb and try things out though. So many people put octave before fuzz for instance, as general consensus says to do so for better tracking. However I think the Boss OC-2 sounds better after fuzz (results in a clean synthesized octave down blended with the fuzz) and many people have never even tried it and just say "hey, they're the wrong way around!". Ears make the final decision!

Where about are you mate? And are they direct or belt drive?

I've had a DHA VT2 and currently own a VT Bass. I use the VT to get an Ampeg sound out of a clean amp / PA, with just a hint of drive. I'm not a fan of using it as a distortion pedal really, it sounds far too compressed with the gain pushed. Another good thing about the VT is it makes the Mammoth sound amazing, it really brings out the low end and tames the fizzy highs. The DHA is VERY nice at low gain grit and has a certain 'sheen' to it that sounds yummy with a fresh set of strings. However I would steer you towards the Barber LTD Silver for sale in the classifieds right now - if I weren't about to build myself one I would have bought it already! One of the best bass ODs going.

Sounds really good and well worth a punt at that price... But I've been reckless today and bought the most expensive pedal I've ever purchased so I need to be sensible for a while! I can't believe nobody's took it yet!

A Markbass 12" or 15" combo is well worth thinking about if size weight are important. Light enough to carry in one hand, loud enough for most small-medium gigs, and you can add an extension cab for later gigs. It might be a bit too clean sounding for your tastes, but I dirty mine up with a VT Bass pedal when I need to! I got my CMD121P for £500 second hand, 500W (with ext. cab), 13Kg, and 14" x 15" x 17" - more than loud enough for my needs and I can pick it up with one finger! What's your budget?

Active/Passive inputs can also have a different impedance, which may affect the sound depending what's in the chain. As a general rule of thum I use the passive input and move over to the active if I get nasty clipping happening.

[quote name='Hamster' post='417962' date='Feb 23 2009, 10:31 PM']There are some pedals here that I've never heard (or heard of!)[/quote]

Then you need to get out less...

That RRP is ridiculous!

For me, I can get away with using these as the essentials:

1. Preamp / Amp Sim (VT Bass) - makes my Markbass amp sound like an old school Ampeg, and is great for sending an amp-like tone to the PA, or putting into the FX return to bypass the preamp of crap amps

2. Overdrive (modded Bad Monkey) - essential for tunes that need a bit more grit, or for boosting choruses/solos etc

3. Fuzz (Supercollider Beast) - for when something more than light grit is required, and for creating noise loops with the oscillators

4. Delay (SMMH) - Used for a bit of delay/reverb in ambient parts, and for creating noise/drone loops with the Supercollider. It can also be used for chorus/flanger sounds.


I also have a Wolly Mammoth clone, Tonefactor 442 Filter, Boss OC-2 Octave and CE2-B Bass Chorus which are great for using with the above to make synth sounds for shits and giggles.