jrixn1

https://www.facebook.com/joliandthesouls/posts/pfbid02KaGW6E6tqPnkyiWs2v7tKgFrvA8WEta8esJjrNSGUbacNoehjaTr8gLMk64A2Yrkl
 

17 minutes ago, Al Krow said:

 

Interestingly one of the comments on Talkbass posted this morning seems to be coming up with pretty much the exact same suggestion as mine above: "Alternatively, you could use the Thru connection to split your signal. Adding effects to the separate signal path which you could then combine back in with your primary signal using something like a Boss LS-2."  

 

I don't think your suggestion will work, with the SGT being plugged back into itself.  You are connecting the through output back to the SGT input, via the ABY - which is a feedback loop.  The Talkbass suggestion is different: connect the bass to the SGT input; the through output and main output to the ABY pedal; and then routing that into an amp etc.

15 hours ago, amnesiak said:

The idea would be to sell the LMIII and use the money to go towards the power amp and DI. 

Power amps are typically rack gear.  Crown will be decent e.g. https://www.thomann.de/gb/crown_xli_1500.htm , but it's 12.7kg and a 2U rack format, i.e. heavy and large.  It's uncommon for bassists to use rack gear for decades now because there is basically no point in it.

There are some non-rack power amps which are smaller and lighter e.g. previously mentioned Baby Sumo, or the GR Pure Amp - but unless you have an actual, specific reason to use a power amp, I'd stick with the Markbass as it's going to be more straightforward.  Plug the preamp into the instrument input.  Previous poster suggested using the effects loop - usually good advice, but Markbass is atypical in that its effects loop comes before the eq section.

Or if you are looking at power amps because the Markbass's response is not flat enough, there are other, better options. E.g. powered speakers.

BTW "preamp" and "DI" are different things but I think you are using them interchangeably.  A preamp is what you are after - it gives tone shaping: eq and possibly overdrive etc.  Whereas a DI box generally aspires to not change your tone but just convert the instrument signal so it can go straight into a mixing desk e.g. if recording, or going into a venue PA system.  Some preamps do come with DI functionality built in - but not all do.

55 minutes ago, BassBunny said:

the seller doesn't have a box

You can buy boxes online and you don't even have to leave the house.
E.g. https://www.sellusyourguitar.co.uk/product-page/guitar-packaging-electric-bass-guitars

Nice-playing neck from a Fender Modern Player jazz bass.

Nut: Synthetic Bone
Radius: 9.5″ (241 mm)
Fretboard: Rosewood
Fret Size: Jumbo
Neck Material: Maple
Neck Shape: “C” Shape
Nut Width: 1.5″ (38.1 mm)

In good condition, with just a couple of quite light scratches on the fretboard.

Frets visually have a small amount of wear, which has not caused any playing issues.

Truss rod working fine.  It uses a wheel at the heel end, and I'll include an adjustment rod.

The tuner holes are very slightly smaller than standard - afraid I don't have the right tool to measure the exact diameter.  I have some official Fender bushings to hand, and they don't quite fit.  I had Hipshot Ultralites in there with no problem.

I don't own any calipers, but the neck fit well on the bodies I've had with it: the original Fender jazz body it came on, a few Squier P bodies, and a third-party body specced to Fender dimensions.

Weighs 928g on my kitchen scales.

£150 collected from Bristol, or can post for £10.

Is it a 'Bryce'?

https://shop8h.top/ProductDetail.aspx?iid=30165700&pr=76.88
 

I moved from an original 15" Barefaced Compact to a Barefaced Big Baby 2 and it was a big increase in clarity.  I wouldn't get a BB3 today though, at £1150 (unless you just couldn't do without its unbeatable low weight) - I'd get a good 12" powered speaker, like an RCF 732-A or Yamaha DXR12 for £700 or so.  Also depends how attached you are to your RB. If so, the other cab which I've not tried but sounds interesting (if I was using separates) is the Monaco https://www.lfsys.co.uk/bassguitarproducts It's marketed for bass guitar but I don't see why.  Apparently there's a demo one making its way around the UK (contact  @stevie ).

Although having just seen the price of a Pedal Power 2 Plus, I'd get a Truetone CS6.

I have neither device, so I'm just theorizing here.

First, headphone amp usage increases the current draw.  So if you aren't planning on using the headphone amp, you won't be at the max 300mA.

Second point - what are commonly called "current doublers" don't double the current per se... they merely combine the two outputs.
https://voodoolab.com/product/current-doubler-adapter/ confirms it: "the Current Doubler Adapter combines the current of two outputs"
So if 250mA wasn't enough, you can use 250mA output + 100mA output = 350mA for the Zoom B2, and still have the remaining 250mA output free for your other digital pedal.

For any sort of doubling (or tripling), hard to beat the Boss LS-2 with its level matching and multiple routing options in a compact form.

Or in particular for upright, consider one of the EBS pedals - the Stanley Clarke Acoustic or the MicroBass 3.  They do more than you've asked for, but I found them very good and I was able to replace some of my other existing gear and streamline my doubling setup.

G & D : Gut-a-Like Hepcat, just over two years old.

A & E: whatever steels comes on a Christopher bass - their own-brand?  About 10 years old and nicely worn in.

Good mixed set which works really well for old-school swing, etc.  I don't bow so can't comment on that aspect.  The Gut-a-Like are not an exact match tension-wise for the steels, but I adapted ok.

Free to a good home!

Where are the side dots?  It's not clear from the reviews on bax-shop website, with one person saying:
"The only problem are the side-dots. They are on the usual spot for a fretted bass, but on a fretless bass without lines, the side-dots should be on the spot of the fret."
but another:
"There's nothing wrong with the "side-dots", they are right where they should be."

Check which way your particular switch is wired.

E.g. looks like you'd need to flip the diagram if using a Warman mini toggle (middle position).
https://www.warmanguitars.co.uk/product/dpdt-3-position-on-on-on-mini-toggle-guitar-switch/

This post has diagrams for both on-off-on and on-on-on.

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/single-series-single-on-standard-switch.1224168/

I know sometimes there's no alternative - but be careful loading up cars with gear which will fly forward and crush you if you have an accident.

I now always try to keep my back seats up if possible, ideally with everything in the boot; or if it really won't fit, the lightest items on the back seat.  The upright bass goes on the reclined passenger seat with a seat belt on.

2 hours ago, bassatnight said:

I have just bought a Rickenbacker 4003 in ruby red, less than a fortnight later, my dream finish ‘blue boy’ appears.

If you bought it from a shop on the internet, you have 14 days from when you received it to decide to return it.

17 minutes ago, Burns-bass said:

I’ll add it to my order when I get the Stanley Clarke pre!

Ah, well in that case see this post - https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/443383-ebs-stanley-clarke-acoustic-preamp/?do=findComment&comment=4909149

The tuner out can (undocumentedly) be on permanently, so you could use any tuner of your choice.

Boss TU-2 and TU-3 have a bypass output which is never muted.

16 minutes ago, Dad3353 said:

 

See here ... 

"Months" is plural, so it's "between two and four months' average salary".

On 27/02/2023 at 14:52, Dad3353 said:

They cost between two and four month's average salary at the time

21 minutes ago, Al Krow said:

I mean, I've not quite pushed the button, still shopping around for a decent price as I'm now waaaay over the budget

Why not use just the 912As for now, and in particular have the singer use them on her solo gigs and see how she gets on?  Perhaps after a few real world experiences everyone will have a better idea of what they need.  What is the hurry to rush out and buy more gear?  Just a few weeks ago you said of the 912As, "definitely the best PA set up I've had with any of the bands I've been in" - but a few internet posts later and they've been relegated to being the spares.  I'm not saying 732As aren't good (I've had one - they're great), but whatever you get, there will always be something better - you have to stop at some point!

Tell me about it - I used to be a drummer, and our bassist never brought a bass amp so we always had to bring one for him!  Can't believe I used to do that...

Sounds like 710A is the way to go for you.  They will be better than the 310A, which you used to own and know were ok for smaller gigs.  So you know the 710As will also be fine for smaller gigs.

If you think they'll need a boost, bring a 912A as well (rather than a CMD).  There is also redundancy here, as the 912A will substitute better than a CMD if a 710A broke.

For the larger gigs, bring both 912As.

👍

I think I'm missing some information: do you have monitors, and if so what do you put through them?

If you have bass amp as backline, guitar amp as backline, drums are not miked, only vocals in the monitors, and the PA (the two 710s) is just for vocals - then yes that's a standard setup for a smaller gig.

But you said to put the CMD in the sub position - how would you and your bandmates hear the bass?

And then this: "then for larger venues I can take along the CMD 121H for a bit of additional low end support" - I still think I've missed something, because this implies that for smaller venues, you're not taking along the CMD 121H.  So how are you hearing the bass here - just from being behind the 710s?
Sorry if I've missed something already mentioned!

It sounds like a bodge.  Do you already own a CMD 121 - is that the consideration?  But they are just different things - a sub doesn't normally put out anything above 150Hz, and can put out much more volume at 40-150Hz compared to a bass amp.

I wouldn't say that the kick going through a sub benefits the drummer; it benefits the audience.  You need to work together to get the best sound for the whole band!

I know subs cost money, and have to be stored somewhere, and someone needs to bring them to the gig.  I'm fortunate in my current band that I don't buy or store any of the PA.  But I have been in bands in the past where the tops are at the guitarist's house, and the sub is at the drummer's house, but the guitarist is depping out next week's gig so the singer had probably better take the tops home after tonight's gig, or the drummer's coming from his aunt's house that weekend so can't bring the sub, etc...so yes I do appreciate the issues.

But unless I misremember, I thought you already had a sub - an RCF 708?  How did that work out, and what tops did you use with it?  Or it also seems you're happy with your RCF 912s - other than you don't like hauling them around.  TBH I've lost track of how many bands you're in, or what gear you have!  In terms of gig fees, do you get an extra share for providing the PA - and if not, would that change the situation enough for you?  I can't quite remember but I think in my previous band, an eight-piece, the money was split nine ways, with half of the ninth going to whoever brought the PA, and half going to whoever booked the gig - or something along those lines.

On 20/02/2023 at 08:51, Al Krow said:

many folk are very happy with a 1x12" or 2x10" cab as backline. Obviously having a decent quality cab with the ability to handle reasonably chunky wattage helps, but I never found my Vanderkley 210s or my BF BB2 or SC 1x12" lacking,

I've used two RCF HD 10-A mk4 next to each other, on the floor, in the place of traditional backline, and it was great with a five-string bass, and very loud.  E.g. filled a hotel ballroom without PA support.  But I wouldn't want them separated and on poles as the entire FOH PA for a whole band.

On 17/02/2023 at 10:35, Al Krow said:

In terms of handling bass through these, what are folks views experiences with:

a) using them as standalone to put bass through;

b) combining with a small bass rig e.g. a Markbass CMD121 combo; or

c) combining with a sub;

 

Is it pretty common to consider (b) and (c) as workable alternatives? Are there particular benefits to one over the other?

Are you ever going to do bigger/louder gigs than what you currently do?  Because (b) isn't scalable - you can't increase FOH volume without increasing the stage volume.  You ideally want the two to operate independently. Also you can't put kick (or anything else which would normally go through subs) through the bass amp.