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Posts posted by JD1

  1. Paulhauser - red lettering so TW’s. Not sure what the difference is? They have coil taps on them and I quite often run them single coil and switch to twin for a solo boost.

  2. I’ve got a NS5H2 - USA bolt on with EMG’s and an OBP3. And I’ve had a couple of Euros pass through. The tone is completely different to the Euros. Probably a combination of the build and the circuit. Less aggressive (but still a hot output), tighter / more compressed and a more focussed mid range and a more polite top end. Little bit of neck dive due to the lighter body (and chunky neck) but not too bad and a wide leather strap sorts it. And on the chunky neck, PJ was telling me when I took delivery that Stuart paid great attention to neck stability. And I have to say he was right. In 9 years I’ve never had to tweak it - in all temperatures.

    (NB - one of my Euros was an early green 5 with gold hardware and solid maple wings and a chip above the bridge pickup where my screwdriver slipped! I’d love to know what happened to that. I believe Guitar Guitar in Edinburgh sold it. Definitely one I wish I had kept).

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  3. All of this seems to have passed me by! So couple of questions (and apologies if they’re hidden earlier). Did something go wrong with the Japan arrangement? The Metro’s seemed to be high quality and popular in equal measure? Also what is the difference between Japanese MetroLines and Japanese MetroExpresses?

  4. Anyone used one of these? I’m getting decent results straight into the interface and using the Logic amp designer stuff but looking at Other options for an external DI / amp sim. Any other options out there?

  5. Ha I should read things properly! Yes it was mine. Great cab. I only sold it as I was down-sizing. I have a tie-in with Hartke now or I’d have had it back. NB if you have been running it with the tweeter turned completely off apparently it doesn’t like that and can cause the tweeter to blow. It happened once before and I remember having an exchange with Tommy about it. This is a great cab for not a lot of cash.

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  6. I had one of these for years and loved it. I thought this was mine until you mentioned you got it from Walshy. There’s not many of these around. Mine was actually a H115 (although it has S115 on the back for some reason). It was a prototype H115 I borrowed from Water of Tyne and I liked it so much I asked Tommy if I could buy it. He changed the design soon afterward to a smaller cab. One of the best 15’s I’ve ever had. Responsive to eq - especially mids and for a 15, very quick - and with the horn a great one cab solution.

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  7. Thanks Al / Pete. I’ll sort out pics. She’s a beaut. I’ve had a look in the control cavity and there are a couple of trim pots and dip switches etc. but hard to make out from the manual what’s what. I’ll just leave it since it sounds canny the way it is. Not sure how to upload pics on here - been a member from the start but not been on much in years.

  8. Yamaha Nathan East Mk.1. Just acquired one of these. Just wondering if anyone has any info on the model - when they were made, spec, reviews etc? There doesn’t seem to be much info out there especially after the NE2 come out (mind you my Google / research skills are poor and I admit this is the lazy option!). I just remember when they came out along with the first John Patitucci model and them being reviewed in the bass mags - wanted one then but couldn’t afford. I’ve not looked in the control cavity yet but I seem to recall the TRB’s had selectable frequencies on the eq. Any info would be welcome! (Love it by the way).

  9. Thanks - will check the East out. I have a love hate thing with Stingrays. Love the look, playability and build quality but the eq / preamps I've never been 100% on. This is my second Classic and I knew I wouldn't get on with the preamp. Just too much extreme low end and high boost that isn't really usable (at least for me) and I like my mids!

  10. GK RB1001's have serious grunt. I had one for years and sounded fab through an Epifani UL310. Two 2x10's is also a good option. One for smaller gigs and both for bigger. More flexible and easier to hump than a 4x10. As long as you don't drive the amp too hard one will be fine. I would echo the previous comments about maxing the bass on your Stingray. They have a big boost in low end and can easily make the amp or cab clip (although in my experience the RB had a pretty robust front end).

  11. Any suggestions to upgrade a SR Classic 5 preamp? Ideally no mods so would need to fit in the existing cavity (I've not looked yet but I'm guessing it will be tight) and be a three pot config (e.g. stacked treble n bass and mid + vol). Obvious choice would be an Aguilar OBP3 but I'm not sure it would fit.

    Just wondering if anyone has any experience of this.


  12. Not been on here for years so apologies if this has already been discussed but what is the general view of the weight of these? I recently bought a Fretless 5 (swamp ash). Great tone and playability but blimey its heavy! Not an issue as I'll only be using on the odd track / session but I was thinking of pulling the trigger on a fretted 5 and that will get more use. Has anyone else had issues with the weight of these or is mine a one off? Also, will an Alder one likely to be lighter than swamp ash?

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