joescartwright

@VTypeV4 @Phil Starr Thanks! So how would I calculate it with two two10 cabs? @wateroftyne Sounds really great, love the sound clips you posted in the other thread. Let's see if Leszek is happy to send over a demo model ... Wish me luck!

What's the maths behind those numbers? (I'm intrigued not being critical)

Yeah, the WA sounds great but the few times I've played all valve the feel has been notably different. The transients seem much more apparent in a way I've not experienced with solid state gear. The WB-100 looks like a good option, the lack of controls is a definite plus for me, I'd be happy with just volume and gain! @wateroftyne What does that little switch on the right hand side do?

I'd love to try one out, I'd thought about their other one, the R-400 or something?, but not seen this one. Bit sheepish about buying one without trying it though.

If I can get away with 100w that'd be great, something like the ctm-100 or a v4b, I don't know how much I like the idea of carrying an SVT around!!!

Hi all, I've been using a mesa walkabout for quite a while now and keep thinking of changing over to something all valve. I picked up one of the tiddly Ashdown 15 watt valve heads and really like the immediacy it has compared to solid state stuff that I'm used to, it's not the fullest sounding amp I've played, which seems to be the main criticism of this particular amp, but for home use it's great. So... if paired with a small but efficient cab like a barefaced two10, how many watts would be likely to keep up with your standard functions bands without being massively distorted? Compressed and a bit saturated is lovely but I'm not looking for something that's always gainy if that is helpful. I play all passive basses, mostly with flats, and don't use much in the way off effects other than the occasional fuzzy or overdriven sound. Any advice would be much appreciated Joe

I was thinking that a pogo stick attachment might be more eye catching. Gotta set yourself apart from the competition right?

It’s for a roaming band, acoustic guitar, percussion/snare/cajon, vocals and me so it’s not like there is a massive amount to compete with. The environment can can be challenging at times though as it’s rarely in a space designed for music, often outside or in a space with a fair bit of background noise etc.

So I've been asked to play in a band with no amp or PA support. I have a stentor hybrid upright bass which is fine for me as a beginner but is certainly not that loud, any tips for maximising volume acoustically? String recommendations/better bass/suck it up and practice more and stop moaning etc. Cheers, Joe.

Unitune looks like a winner to me, I'll give it a try. Thanks all!

Anyone found a really reliable clip on tuner? I've tried a few but have always found them sketchy in a live situation. It'd just be nice to have one less thing in the signal chain. Cheers! Joe.

I had some 0.5mm veneer hanging around, cut it to shape and sanded one end down to virtually nothing, took ten minutes and worked really well.

Dunlop flats, they're pretty bright still, maybe 6 weeks old. They're definitely one of the brighter flats that I've played, I might switch back over to La Bellas, it was much less noticeable with those. Could it be a pickup thing? It seems odd that it's the same (just to a different degree) with each of the strings I've tried on it. I've not noticed anything like it using the same strings on other basses (not the exact same string but same brand etc).

On my p bass with flats the E and A strings sounds great but the D and G strings have a ringing harmonic of an octave above whatever note I play on them. Have tried moving the pickup closer/farther and tried a couple of different string sets but it’s the same regardless. In a mix it’s not noticeable but when practicing it bugs me. Any ideas? Cheers, Joe.

So after considerable fiddling (and swearing) it turns out that the noise is a combo of the speaker grill buzzing and the very shoddy job whoever put this together did of attaching the head to the cab. With the head and cloth grill removed the cab sounds fine. And after all that I'm not sure how much I like the sound of the cab anyway! I'll see how it sounds at rehearsal but I think 12s and 15s are more my thing.

The head works fine with other cabs. I took the speaker grill cloth off to have a look at the speaker and farty sound changed which makes me think it's just mounted too close together or something. It seems like a chunk of the noise is coming from the inside of the cab (more obvious at higher volume). In all honesty I much prefer the way the amp sounds with a Mesa 12" cab and I don't feel comfortable selling a noisy cab, I think I'll probably scrap the upgrade idea and save the money. I'll drop Ashdown a message and see if they've got any advice first though. Cheers, Joe.

Bumnote - The product has been discontinued and it doesn't look like they use the same speaker in their other stuff (it's one of those whizzer cone things). If it takes more thought/effort than just popping a different speaker in then I'll probably give it a miss, I've got too many projects on the go at the moment without another one to balls up! I'd be interested to read the clevers all the same though. Cheers, Joe.

I recently bought an Ashdown CTM-15 with a 1x10 flip top cab (see [url="http://ashdownmusic.com/products/1/Bass-Amplification/1/Custom-Shop/110/DH15C110/"]here[/url]) on ebay. It arrived with the latches bent and not working and the speaker farts out a bit in the lower register. Anyway, paypal refunded me the money as the seller was unresponsive and I've still got the amp. Switching the latches to something more substantial is going to be super easy and cheap to do but I'm not sure if it's worth changing out the speaker for something better or just to scrap the cab and keep the head. The flip-top thing is cool but I'm not sure that the cab will sound good with a different speaker in and don't want to bin the money if it doesn't. What do y'all think? Cheers, Joe.

Sounds worth a go to me!

Hero, Thanks mate! Yeah it doesn't need to go any louder than it does if it can just have a wider range of cleans available. Even if the output ends up being slightly lower I'd be happier without the really distorted sounds when stuff gets cranked.

Hi, So I know that if you have a 12ax7 in the preamp you can switch it out for a 12at7 or ay7 etc. Is there a similar thing with power amp valves? I've got a little valve amp for recording that uses 2 12ax7s in the preamp and 2 el84s in the power amp and I'm looking for a combination of valves that will give me just a touch more clean headroom, I never use the really dirty sounds anyway so thought it would be worth a try. Cheers for your help! Joe.