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nottswarwick

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Posts posted by nottswarwick

  1. I was glad to learn how to do this sort of thing myself. I have found it really quite easy, and enjoyable.

    I bought a set of Cruz Tools, including feeler gauges, millions of Allen keys, ruler, etc etc. about £40, with a little guide on how to do it all.

    Not cheap, but quality tools, and actually about 70% of what my excellent local luthier charges for a basic set up.

    I am confident in simple truss, action and intonation work now on all my guitars and basses.

    I would still get a pro to do things like cutting nuts sand bridge slots and anything fancier, but for keeping things playing well and adjusting for string changes, down tuning etc, I have already saved myself a load of cash.

    It's really not hard. Well, I am as happy with my results as I have been when paying someone else to do it

  2. I love the bass. However, I'm not really using it live as in spite of trying, the neck dimensions are not totally compatible with my tendinitis.

    It is a lovely bass to play, has Labella flats on it, really well set up, great tone. I've played a fair few P basses incl US ones, and this one is better than most.

    So, I will be looking to either reluctantly sell it, or trade for a P bass with a narrower nut width. Don't get me wrong, it's not too wide, just too wide for me and my tendinitis to get along for a whole gig.

    Also interested in Yamaha BB, or short scale ie Mustang.

    Oh, it's Fiesta Red, and comes with original gig bag, schallers, etc etc.

    I'll try and do some pics in a bit, but it is truly almost as new.

    I'm disappointed, but my wrist just come first.

  3. If you have a set of feeler gauges you will at least some idea what relief to dial in as a starting point,

    I capo at the first fret, and the depress string at the last fret. Then measure the distance between the string and the 8th fret. I tend to use the 0.015" feeler gauge, which seems to get it about right. Then adjust the action at the bridge after this.

    Others might do it differently I guess.

  4. What seems to be apparent with the MIM line is that the higher priced ones are better than the lower priced ones.

    Ie, the Classic Series (50s, Roadworn etc) are better than the Standard ones. Which is what you would hope/expect really.

    Now for the subjective bit - my Classic 50s feels better that the Standard MIM I previously owned. Good. Both felt better than a Squire VM that I had. Good. I prefer the Classic over the one USA I have tried in a shop, but that could be done to the setup of that bass. Eth way, I don't think country of origin makes any difference these days.

  5. But this thing is my heavy amp is not really that heavy. Nor was my EBS350. Nor my Ashdown. All easy to carry in a nice rack case. Ok, it 4kg, granted, but I'm not only talking about massive Mesa 400s or all valve ampegs here.

    For me it's the cabs that are awkward if heave, hence my light cab.

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