B.Flat

This is my third attempt to obtain some info.
Quite some time ago Uncle Fluffy put out some really good pcbs for home-build S'ray preamps, I bought three.
I had fun installing them in my basses. Those basses have now found new homes. I am now trying to obtain one more board.
I have pm'd Uncle F. but received no reply.
Has anyone out there got one of these boards they are prepared to let go?
If yes I would be so happy I would probably take the wife out !!

Brian

Perfect ikay ! You are a star!
Thank you for taking the time to reply.
You make the world a better place.
Brian

Hi again. Does this wiring mean I cannot retain the function of my p/up selector switch? I know the two vols. really negate it but I would like it if I could keep this working for swift tonal changes.
What do you think?

Hi ikay,
thank you very much for this quick an precise reply, I really am most grateful, will do this and with a dual con 500K pot, if it does not turn out as I would like I can easily return it to the original config.

Excellent, and thanks again.

Brian

Hi.
I have a very sweet Ibanez RS924. Though I enjoy the p/up & control config. I am wondering if it could be re-wired to give the std. JB 2 Vol 1 tone in passive mode (via a dual con. pot.) without loosing the active bass & treble cut/boost option.
I have attached the wiring diagram for any advice that can be given, and that will be gratefully received.


Brian

Thanks[u] warwickhunt [/u], [b]??[/b] (where you the bassist with The Two Hats?) , I'll get some wax. Somebody told me there was a luthier trick with a magnet to determine the proximity of a trussrod to the back of the neck, but I have forgotten what it was!

Hi.
I have a German made Corvette double buck. 2008.For some reason the neck wood is protruding very slightly from the fingerboard on the bass side and also the centre piece of the neck, around the 12 fret.
I have the skills to rub this down but I am unsure what will happen to the neck finish, which I assume is oiled.
Has anyone out there rubbed a WARWICK down ?
Also I would like to slim the neck a bit but again am unsure how much wood is below the truss rod.Any advice ?

Is my face [u]RED[/u] !!!
The centre position on the $$ micro switches[u] IS[/u] single coil. Ok, no choice of which coil but I do not think there will be a noticeable difference.

So ignore this topic, and take my advice.......try to stay on small side of 70.
Anyone for a GAGA holiday?

Hi
I am looking for advice and opinions on fitting a coil splitting switch to the front MEC pickup of my Corvette 4$$.
Ideally would want a 3position switch to give single front coil/ original configuration/ single rear coil.
Does anyone want to tell me how to wire it and if I should anticipate any hum problems?

What do you think

Hi.
Anyone out there can tell me how to wire coil splitting switches to a Warwick Corvette $$ ?
I want to be able to switch either pick up to single coil, with a choice of which coil in both pickups.
I presume a 3 position DPDT switch, centre OFF, will be required for each pickup, so that I can retain the orginal configuration.
Any advice please ?

I think I meant great stuff .

Brian

Thank you for the prompt replies, reat stuff.

brian

Hi.
I am hoping someone out there can educate my addled brain on this subject of impedance matching.

Basically I have a signal path through units as follows:

Preamp output 10K ohms.....to.....Greater than 500K ohms effects input.......to........1K ohms effects output.......to......10K ohms power amp input.

The question is, do I need to have matching transformers at any stage or can I just link it up as is ?

Any help on this will be welcome, but not too technical please, "I look like a farmer but I [u]am[/u] a farmer", to mis-quote Bo DidIey.

Brian

Yamaha TRB5P, ebony board, N/T, piezo bridge ?

Thank you, sorry about the delay in answering.
I now have the prog. on my computer but though the Superfly is found by the computer the Editor cannot see it.
I cannot get I to go online. Anybody with ideas?

Hi, is this still available? If yes, how much with the fender case ?


Brian

Hi.
Does anybody have the Ashdown Superfly Editor programme on disc or in a form they could pass on to me?
My Windows XP went down & now I have a new computer with XP, but no Editor programme !!.
I know it is old tech. but I still find it useful.
Any help on this gratefully received.

[quote name='SubsonicSimpleton' timestamp='1402591440' post='2475135']
Is your cab is like the one pictured here

[url="http://www.wikizic.org/Cerwin-Vega-V-35/gallery-2.htm"]http://www.wikizic.o...5/gallery-2.htm[/url]

Bit hard to tell from a photo, but that looks to me like the cab is a bass reflex enclosure with horn coupling for the woofer rather than a folded horn arrangement - have you confirmed the cabs internal construction details by removing the drivers and access panels so you can get a good look inside?

If I'm right, then you should have the correct port dimensions and cab volume right there, and providing you can work out the capacity of the awkward shaped voids around the horn it should shrink down to a nice neat ported box.
[/quote]

Hi SubSonSimp,
yes that is the one (with the red horn) and you are absolutely right about the configuration, my mistake to call it a folded horn.
I had started to do exactly what you suggest but took the chance that someone might have access to the T.S. parameters or have a CV bass cab..
I shall now have corage in someone elses convictions (yours) and carry on with what I should have done in the first place !

By the way is the photo you linked to your cab? Probably not but though I live in sunny France I notice you are in sunny Yorkshire and I originally had two V35's and sold the other in Yorkshire !

Rock n'Roll Mamma On A Saturday Night

[b][quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1402519516' post='2474442']
Don't worry too much, it's very likely that you will end up building a cab that is smaller than that needed to get the very best out of this speaker. Building a small cab is going to have two effects, it will raise the lower cutoff for the speaker and may create a bass 'hump' in output around the 100Hz mark. On the plus side too small a cab improves power handling.

Before we had T/S we just used to tune the cab to the speakers resonant frequency. You can find this if you have a signal generator (they have these on-line) and a multimeter as the impedance of the speaker rises to a maximum at resonance. Alternatively you can just tune the cab to 40-50Hz and it will probably work, albeit at less than optimum.

If you can get the data or find an original cab then all well and good, if not try finding a cab as near as possible in size to the one you remember copy the dimensions and tune it to 40Hz. WinISD will cough up the port dimensions for this. I wouldn't advise this for a new driver but you don't have a lot to lose. Be careful about how much power you put through it and use a bass filter like the thumpinator if you have one and the speaker should be fine.
[/quote][/b]

[b]Thanks for that Phil, I will take your advice and see what happens.[/b]

Hi.
I have an elderly (nay, VERY elderly) CERWIN VEGA V35 cab. With my Stingray it has always come up with the sound I like (I only use the 18" woofer, not the HF horn or piezos). The cab is now too big for me to manage easily and I have moved to 4 X 10 Deltalite 2510 + 2 X 8 LA8-CNMB which is OK and manageable.
However the old CVega has a quality of its own. Though the original cabinet is a folded horn design,
I remember the same driver ( in a CV vented cab) being used by a lot of bass players who liked deep fundamental bass.
Instead of throwing the driver away I would like to put it in a vented cab, but Thiele-Small parameters are impossible to find for this driver.
Can anyone suggest how I could go about designing a cab (not neccessarily ported, sealed would do)
which would allow me to use it again without endangering the driver & hopefully getting somewhere near its potential performance.
On the very off-chance that someone out there DOES have the parameters for this driver, I do have the Winsd design prog. Or maybe some old duffer like me has the CV ported bass cab & could send me some details and dimensions.

I will be grateful for any help offered.

Brian Flat


Rock n'roll Mama, On A Saturday Night

Hi, I am in need of advice. I have a bass with standard 2 band MM eq board. I am trying to mod the bass to have the Stingray pickup/ 2 band set up + a standard passive P.bass set-up. As I want to use the original three knob control plate I am using stacked pots for the Stingray tone and the P.bass vol/tone. I need to add that both circuits are totally independant and isolated.
I have wired up the plate with a Danelectro 1meg/100k pot for the Stingray tones and a CTS 250k log pot for the volume..
I have made up a 2 band eq board from the BAJAMAN circuit, observing all the correct values.
The problem is this. The bass had a 2004 EBMM 2eq board and separate pots before and sounded A1+.
Now, with the same pickup the bass control is "boomy" and seems to achieve full effect abruptly and in less than a quarter turn of the pot. The trebble pot is slightly better but in the last small segment of travel jumps abruptly from increasing trebble to Stingray "sizzle", though through its entire travel does not have the "clean" sounding trebble of the EBMM circuit.
In short, the tone controls, not being smooth, leave a lot to be desired from the original EBMM setup.
So...............is it the Danelectro pot, or the BAJAMAN board ? Any ideas how I could rectify this?
I do not want to put the EB board back in this bass if I can avoid it.
One final thought. I know that the original bass pot was a "reverse" pot. Can I wire this pot in reverse by changing over the wiper/track terminals or wiring track wire to the opposite track terminal?

I would be grateful for any advice, help or comments.

Brian Flat

[font=lucida sans unicode, lucida grande, sans-serif]The penny has just dropped (if that expression means anything in Southwest Missouri! If not substitute "I’ve seen the light"!)[/font]

[font=lucida sans unicode, lucida grande, sans-serif]I only want this configuration in one bass to save having two. (A little known or understood affliction called "reverse G.A.S, or RGAS, as it is known to the medical profession.)[/font]
[font=lucida sans unicode, lucida grande, sans-serif]Ergo your two output jacks suggestion. Perfect, all I have to do is plug into the gig-appropriate socket, Q.E.D.[/font]

[i][font=lucida sans unicode, lucida grande, sans-serif]Oh what a twisted web we weave.[/font][/i]

[font=lucida sans unicode, lucida grande, sans-serif]Thanks iiipopes,[/font]

[font=lucida sans unicode, lucida grande, sans-serif]Rock n'Roll Mamma On A Saturday Night![/font]

Thank you once again iiipopes, good advice & a bit more knowledge to store in my old grey matter!
Can I ask you a final question?
I have an S'ray 2 band preamp in my drawer. Do you think I would do better to use this with the MM pickup, use the SCPB3 with a Fender 250/500k tone/vol. concentric pot & just use a toggle (DPDT) to switch either (not both) to the output jack?
I would be grateful for your thought on that set-up.

B.F

Thanks iiipopes, that all makes good sense. However I never intended to use active/passive simultaneously.
My objective was to wire a bass with active Stingray-style sounds, switchable to a completely passive '51 P.Bass set-up.
I had the STC2P in the drawer, and a Fender Vol/Tone stacked pot. So the idea was to use an SD SBM4a for the stingray side of things and the SCPB3 for the Pbass side. However, as the STC2P has a balance control I thought a third alternative would be to use both pickups with the active circuit, then, if I could sort out the wiring, use a switch to completely remove the active circuit & the SBM4a, simultaneously switching the SCPB3 to the passive pots and the output socket (the active circuit being disconnected from the output socket)
Obviously this is all achievable but the question is could the switching be achieved a lever switch or would a rotary be required to perform all the making & breaking of different circuits?

Still open to advice.

Brian

Thanks LukeFRC, BigRedX & iKay for your replies, especially to you iKay for the measurements.
I don't soppose anyone out there with a '51 PB single coil could tell me if my estimate of 250mm from twelfth fret centre to pole piece centre is correct?

Still interested in ideas for wiring to remove STC-2P from circuit.

B.Flat