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Posts posted by thebrig

  1. 12 hours ago, jazzyvee said:

    I have barefaced covers for mine and they look exactly the same as the Hotcovers ones  that I later bought for my JC120 and PB Briefcase. Plus you can have your own logo put on the cover too. The Black 600D Canvas ones seem the most hardwearing. They don't list barefaced but If you gave the measurements I'm sure they could knock one for you or just use the barefaced template if they are the same company that makes the barefaced ones. 


    They look decent quality but I've already ordered one from Barefaced 

  2. 5 minutes ago, Paul S said:

    I've had both and currently have the BF cover on mine.  The BF ones have more padding, are stiffer and offer more protection.  They also have 'Barefaced' written on the side that covers the grill so you know which way round they go :)   The Roqsolid ones fold down easier and keep the weather off but offer little protection, although you can get one with a pouch that allows a sheet of something stiff to be slid into place to protect the grill.

    Depends what you want it to do really and whether you have steel or cloth grill?  I have the steel grill, which is pretty hard wearing and will take some knocks, so I mainly need a cover to keep the weather off when loading in or out at gigs and was perfectly happy with the Roqsolid ones.  It just so happens that my latest acquisitions were secondhand and both came with the BF covers. 

    Thanks for the info Paul, I think I might go for the Roqsolid because its really just to give it a little bit of protection between the car and the venue

  3. Here's an update.

    Tech support finally asked me to return the interface and fair play to them, within a couple of day they confirmed that it was faulty and sent me a replacement.

    The new interface works how it should, the signal is recognised by the DAW and the green light comes on as the gain is turned almost immediately.

    So its a big thumbs up for Mackie tech support. 👍

    • Like 3

  4. Meeting up for the first time with three other muso's through JoinMyBand exactly a year ago, we plugged in, tuned up, and the first half-a-dozen songs we played all sounded great, everyone had done their homework and had actually worked on the songs we agreed to run through before turning up.

    Best first meeting I've ever been involved in, and we are still together now. 🙂

    • Like 9
    • Haha 1

  5. Don't know whether I should admit this or not, but I had to search on YouTube for "The Gambler", I've never heard of it and didn't recognised it when it started playing.

    I have have always steered well clear of country music because I just don't like it, I respect all genres of music, but country just isn't for me. 😉

  6. 8 minutes ago, stewblack said:

    I have to say 'you gets what you pays for' seems to me a dubious proposition at best. 

    The implication that the more you spend the better the quality you receive seldom if ever holds true. 

    Especially in an area of such rampant subjectivity. What I value may be irrelevant to you and vice versa. A piece of kit delivering precisely what I want is better than one which does not. Regardless of what I paid. 

    Reliability? I have literally never spent anything on my Behringer or Bugera amps. Had one since my kids were small. In the same time period I've had Trace, Ampeg, Eden, Markbass, Ashdown all need serious money and time spending on them. 

    I got rid of my Stingray because I straight up didn't like it. But my Harley Benton sounds amazing. To me. Can't measure any of this of course. There may be something only expensive gear can do and that may be the thing somebody needs/wants above all else. If so, yes you need to spend the money. 

    When I toss up between my old patched together Trace box loaded with a speaker from a Behringer cab and my Barefaced, it comes down to the ease of the load in. The weight is the only factor, not sound, reliability, headroom, price, none of it 

    I agree that thinking 'you gets what you pays for' isn't always a fair way of judging things, but in my 68 years of literally buying thousands of items for all things in life, 'you gets what you pays for' has come into play so often with many of my purchases 🤔

  7. 1 hour ago, Phil Starr said:

    Sorry that wasn't meant to be personal. Hence the Smiley :)  

    Competition only works if it is fair, I admit I do have a bit of a thing about deliberate lies and Music Tribe (Behringer and co) have a track record here. They aren't the only ones but they are in a fairly dominant position. Is it fair to pitch their 2000W speaker against someone else's 500W speaker when they actually handle the same power? Given that many musicians can't work out ohms, volts and watts I think not.

    The OP said "Its the wattage claims that obviously appeals but at the same time, puts me off if you know what I mean, here's what the newer model claims."

    It's the same rating your speaker has as it happens, Music Tribe/Music Group bought up Turbosound and went on producing their speakers so this may in fact be a similar driver to yours, I don't know that of course but I am confident it's a 5-600W speaker. Should I tell the Brig that.

    Most of my posts are on technical stuff, I'm a rubbish bass player but I used to teach Physics to 'A' level and to design and build speakers for a living so it's what I have to contribute. I try not to be too boring but I like to think I'm teaching someone to fish rather than just feeding them a fish. 

    Anyway no offence meant on my part I enjoy your contributions


    Just like Stew, most of the technical stuff goes over my head too, but thanks Phil, I now know that the 2000 watts claim is misleading and I will probably look for a 500W 15" cab manufactured by a company with a better reputation, I'm not saying that this cab is rubbish because I've not heard one put through its paces, but I have now read a number of reviews where users have said that it does go quite loud, but after a certain level, it loses definition.

    For just over £200, I suppose a lot of people will take a chance on it, but I'm worried that I would probably regret it after a while and wished I had payed a bit more for better cab, and be thinking "you only get what you payed for" 😐

    Anyway, thanks for all your help guys, this is what BC is all about 🙂

  8. 14 minutes ago, stewblack said:

    Not specifically, however I still gig a bugera 15" speaker I bought a very long time ago (around 15 years) and despite some years stored in a garage (dusty in summer damp in winter) it sounds great and has never missed a beat. 

    Claims 600w and I've never had cause to doubt that either. 

    Its the wattage claims that obviously appeals but at the same time, puts me off if you know what I mean, here's what the newer model claims.

    Full Description

    2000 Watts of Pure, Authentic Bass Tones

    The Bugera BN115TS is designed to offer players massive amounts of low end thunder, equipped with a single 15’ Turbosound speaker which offers 2000 watts of volcanic punch and tone. While the speaker delivers massive amounts of lows and mids, a fully adjustable 1’’ horn driver provides the cabinet with pristine, sparkling highs which can be adjusted via the high-quality rotary attenuator. Use the attenuator to custom tailor your sound, going from a vintage and classic tone through to a modern, percussive style.

    Built for Life on the Road

    The speaker cabinet is constructed from a lightweight, sturdy plywood, with a shock proof metal grille and reinforced corners to ensure it survives transportation and protects the internal components from damage. Recessed handles and integrated rollers provide the ultimate portability, ensuring players can easily transport the cab from show to show. The Bugera cab is also equipped with 1/4'’ and profession twist lock speaker connectors to keep all the bases covered.


    • Produces 2,000 watts of powerful and authentic bass tone
    • 1 x 15" custom-made Turbosound LF driver
    • Lightweight and extremely durable plywood enclosure
    • Extensive internal bracing and front-porting for rich and powerful low-end response
    • Custom-made and adjustable 1” HF driver for high-end resolution
    • Input and link outputs on 1/4” TS and professional speaker connectors
    • Recessed carrying handles and integrated rollers for easy transportation
    • Shock-proof metal grille and reinforced corners protect internal components
    • Wheels can be removed to allow stacking



    • Speaker: 1 x 15’’ Turbosound-Designed
    • Power: 2000 Watts
    • Compression Driver: 80 Watts
    • Tweeter Attenuation: 0 to Infinate dB
    • Frequency Range (+3 dB): 40 Hz – 12 kHz
    • Frequency Range (-10 dB): 40 Hz – 18 kHz
    • Usable Low Frequency: 30 Hz
    • Impedance: 8 Ohms
    • Sensitivity: 97 dB SPL (1W/1m)
    • Maximum SPL: 124 dB
    • Inputs: 2 x 1/4'’, 2 x Pro. Locking Connector


    • Height: 23.1’’ (587mm)
    • Width: 22.8’’ (578mm)
    • Depth: 17.5’’ (445mm)
    • Weight: 30.8kg (67.9lbs)

  9. Here is the video I sent to Mackie tech support where you can clearly see and hear that it is not detecting a signal until the gain is a fraction before MAX, meaning there is no room for adjustment, it is either on, or off, and when its on, it starts clipping.

    The volume on my bass was set to MAX and its exactly the same when using my other basses and guitars.

  10. 16 hours ago, paul_c2 said:

    I'm not sure what kind of outcome you are expecting - there aren't that many controls and you've tried it thoroughly, you've not missed anything obvious or non-obvious. If you'd bought it within 2 weeks online, you could have gone for a refund with DSR

    In all fairness to Tech support, they do seem to be on the case, they have asked me to do a video of me playing through the interface so they can see in real time what is actually going on.

    This is their message:

    I have one last request before I can determine the unit is defective.
    Could you send a short video of the issue happening in real time?
    I appreciate your patience and persistence and I want to get you the best solution!

  11. Ok, I've just tried using my ART Studio V3 in front of the interface and it works perfectly, the signal gradually increases as the gain knob is turned, so its obviously designed to be more compatible with active instruments.

    BUT, I don't really want to use an additional device because I just wanted a simple plug & play interface, which is why I went for the Onyx.

    But I suppose I'm stuck with it now. 😐

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