Big Mick

Thanks for all the recommendations chaps. I'm going to finish this build with what I have, but now I know where to look in future. Cheers, Mick. P.S. The internal braces and sides are on now, pics when I can be arsed posting them!

Orange Goblin @ Sound Control, Manchester 15-12-10 What else were they going to use!!!!!!!!!!! Cheers, Mick.

[url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11-vw94-Si8"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11-vw94-Si8[/url] Very nice, the bass is clearly audible despite having some sort of distortion in the sound, so often it just becomes a wall of bass noise, especially when accompanied by lots of double bass drum, not here though, me likey!! \m/\m/ Cheers, Mick.

Many thanks to Bob Stockton for letting me try the amp in his home (bet the neighbours were glad when I left). This should do for a while to go with my BFM cab and thanks to Bob for letting me play through his new Barefaced Midget 112, WOW talk about carity and VOLUME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and stupidly light as well, it's got to be the way forward. Can't wait to finish my BFM Jack 12 now. Better to have a cheap amp and a good cab than the other way round! And apologies to Bob for giving him GAS after letting him play my Yamaha BB414, lol. Cheers, Mick. cool.

[quote name='Oldman' post='1057100' date='Dec 13 2010, 11:46 AM']Just stumbled on this thread from Bill's forum, fascinating stuff, all that folded horn, bass reflex, voice of the theatre stuff. Did'nt realise you could actually get the bottom end you wanted with a home build. Looks great, complicated, but superb.[/quote] As far as woodworking goes, this isn't complicated, but as I've discovered by not exactly following the plans, Bill really does know what he's talking about and his way IS the easiest way! Also, Bill uses PL construction adhesive, this isn't readily available in the UK and I ended up using some of this. [url="http://www.bostik.co.uk/diy/product/evo-stik/Serious-Stuff/22"]http://www.bostik.co.uk/diy/product/evo-st...erious-Stuff/22[/url] It's more like tile adhesive than wood glue and does a good job of filling gaps. If you don't already have a table saw with a good fence, then make a saw sled, I didn't and it makes things more awkward. But I will not be put off by these minor distractions and I will make a good job of finishing this cab. Cheers, Mick.

Braces are going in next Bill. Cheers, Mick.

Ooohhh, the top is on, very exciting!!! Hmmm, saturday night.....PUB!!!!!!! Cheers, Mick.

All good points Bill, for some reason I could see the driver being fitted and removed several times (probably totally unnecessary) so I've gone with tee nuts into which I will loctite studs and secure the driver with nylock nuts. Next time I will incorporate all the bit's I've learned doing this one, so far it's been good fun and I'm beginning to rediscover my woodworking skills, I'm much happier working metal. Cheers, Mick.

More glueage!!!!!! phase plug attached and securely clamped. Mouth pieces screwed and glued, the visible screws will be removed. Somehow I managed to cut the mouth pieces a bit short, they should be proud of the corners then trimmed to be flush with the top and bottom. I'll get round that bit when I come to it!!!! Cheers, Mick.

It's Evo-Stick Serious Stuff ultimate strength adhesive, £7.95 at B+Q. Not sure it it's the same as the PU stuff that Bill uses, but it does fill the gaps and seems plenty strong enough. It says not recommended for polythethylene or polypropylene, but that it will stick anything else to anything else. Cheers, Mick.

Right, routed out clearance for the tee nuts on the driver spacer....freehand!!! and clamped the spacer to the baffle. Starting to take shape now, screwed and glued the throat assembly to the base panel. NEED......MORE.....CLAMPS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Cheers, Mick.

Well, I've just been down to a local (ish) shop today to try out a BH 500 for myself. I took my Yamaha BB 414 with me for reference. It was hooked up to two TC Electronics cabs, a BC210 and a BC212 with the tweeters switched off (I'm not looking for a bright sound). The built in tuner is easy to use with a mut button and an LED for each string and two green LEDs to indicate sharp or flat tuning, when both are lit you are in tune. The fact that it only caters for full notes will be a bit of a drawback for a lot of people and I don't see why it can't be fully chromatic for hardly any extra cost. With the 4 dial EQ set flat (and no tweeters) i was getting a fairly warm, punchy tone without much growl at all, playing on the bridge pickup with the tone on zero (as I do most of the time). Turning up the bass and low mid to 2 oclock and the high mid and trebble to 10 oclock gave a much fuller, warmer sound which I was happy with for blues and classic rock. Although I've never used one before, I turned up the onboard compressor to 12 oclock and noticed that it was doing it's job. Don't expect me to really give an indepth analysis of it's performance as I barely know what I'm talking about and I only played through it for 30 mins in the shop. Overall it seems well built and although not lightweight, it isn't too heavy to lift on the side mounted strap handle and it has useful rubber feet on the opposite side too. So for £375 online price I would be happy to put my money down. Whilst I was there I also tried a Markbass LM2 though a MB 4x10 cab, with the VLE on max, VPF on zero and bass and low mid at 3 oclock, high mid and treble at 9 oclock.......... I know it was through a different cab to the TC, but the amount of fat, warm, rounded bottom end was on another level. If only I had another £200 or so to spend on one!!! Cheers, Mick.

Today's installment. Glue in throat reflectors,not the best fitting pieces but plenty of adhesive will sort that! Tee nuts fitted to driver spacer. Just so you know, I decided to fit the nuts on the back of the spacer instead of behind the baffle because 4 of them would be located behind the throat reflectors. I could've fitted them before the reflectors, but I didn't think that far ahead. It must also be noted that when using the KL3012HO driver, the front gasket inside diameter of 11 1/16" leaves very little room for all 4 tangs of the tee nuts, with some of them breaking out of the spacer. Not really a problem in my mind, but it may vex some of the perfectionist builders! So, I will relieve the circled areas of the baffle with the router to clear the Tee nuts. Although Bill's plans are pretty comprehensive with regard to cutting lists, component selection and assembly drawings, they don't provide some of the useful little tips, like what order to assemble the spacer and tee nuts in. If anyone is contemplating a build such as this, I would heartily recommend reading as many build diaries as you can to pick up these useful tips. EDIT.(Bill has since pointed out to me that using tee nuts for the driver mounting is total overkill and there is actually no need for them here. That is why there is no mention of them in the plans!) Cheers, Mick. P.S. What happens when you leave 2 jack adaptors alone for a few days?

Do you like my ring? Today's delivery contains..... ....some bits I should've ordered first time round. So, that's solved the case finish dilemma! (I researched speaker paint finishes and truck bed liner paint for hours, before coming to the conclusion that the first place I looked was the cheapest and easiest solution, doh!!) I really fancied either dark red or purple paint, but could only get it in 5 litre tins for £45 ish, so black it will be. I think I may have overdone it with the speaker cable!!!!!!!!!! Cheers, Mick.

Feeling much better today thanks. So, I measured the inside diameter of the driver gasket, 11 1/16" then marked out the holes to mount the driver using a 1/8 - 1/4 jack adaptor to push through the holes in the driver frame. Phase plug. Found a proper block plane at the Mother in Law's. Quick sharpen of the blade and it works really well. The throat under construction, I screwed and glued these bits together. Throat assembly glued and ready for fitting to the baffle. No screws this time, just a bag full of loose change! Cheers, Mick.

Was going to put some pics. up today but spent the afternoon in A+E after some unexpected chest pains. I'm feeling ok now and will get on with it tomorrow. Cheers, Mick.

[quote name='steve' post='1041849' date='Nov 29 2010, 11:57 PM']good stuff Mick, is there much more cutting left to do?[/quote] Not really, just the internal bracing pieces and a couple of small bits. I should get some construction done today, if I can get to the workshop (bastard snow..grrrrrr) Cheers, Mick.

Yay............ circles!!! My router circle cutter attachment actually works. More tomorrow, hopefully. Cheers, Mick.

Warwick Corvette Bub 4, Little Mark head and Trace Elliot 4x10 Sweeeeet sounding rig. Cheers, Mick.

Got the baffle plate cut out. Note to self........ freehand routing is a bad idea! Next time I'll think things through beforehand. Nevermind, once it's behind a grille and painted black it'll be fine!!!! On a more positive note, I'm making a circle cutter for my router to help with the driver spacer and phase plug pieces. Cheers, Mick.

[quote name='jonthebass' post='1035643' date='Nov 24 2010, 09:32 PM']Nice one Big Mick and can't wait to see your cab develop. Cheers, Jon[/quote] Well you can start right here! got some cutting done tonight, most of the big panels are rough cut (it's been a while). Cunning use of V-drums monitor. Note extra floodlight on workbench (also doubles as a heater). Some panels! Baffle plate marked out ready for tomorrow. I intend to cut as many panels as I can at the start to avoid having large bits of plywood everywhere. Cheers, Mick.