subdude

if i enter the same driver (eminence delta 10 as an example) and the other parameters, i get quite different results. in the winISD beta the cab volume is given as 36 liters, in the pro alpha version i get a cab volume of 29 liters. am i doing something wrong or what is behind this? thanks

use a hair dryer to remove the stickers, that will help you geting them off easyer and in one piece. any kitchen oil like olive or sunflower on a bit of cotton will easy remove the residual glue. use scratch remover if necessary and buff with some polish.

well, i don't know yet how it sounds, the bass still needs to be assembled. i guess i will just finish it as it is and listen how it sounds, chances are it won't make a difference anyway.

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1324289923' post='1472489'] Are you sure you got the same 2 pickups back from the painter? [/quote] certainly, i had marked them both "neck" and "bridge" before the masking tape went on.

hi, thanks both of you for your input. the bridge pickup is the weaker one. i was wondering if it is possible to de-magnetise a pickup by dropping it or otherwise handle it wrong? i kept them always apart but i have no clue what the guys at the spray shop did while they had the parts for painting. thanks for the link to the wizards, since i live in kenya, there is unfortunately no quick, cheap or easy way to get the pickup to the UK and back, hence my research into the topic.

i had a paint job done on a yamaha RBX375. after receiving the parts back i noticed that one of the 2 stock pickups is magnetically quite a bit weaker than the other. i have not noticed such a difference before i sent them for sparying but i can not say for sure that both PU's were the same in that respect. is it a problem if one pickup has a weaker field than the other and if so, can the pickup be magnetised and how would this be done? thanks

you are welcome, glad to help!

i have a wiring diagram for the bass, if you send me an email address i can mail it to you.

thank you all for your input and informative links, all questions answered!

QUOTE (bremen @ Sep 12 2011, 02:18 PM) Pin 1 jack sleeve, pin 2 jack tip. Pin 3 no connection. [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_connector"]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_connector[/url] bremen, thanks for that, very helpful. [quote name='fillerbunny' date='Sep 13 2011, 08:07 AM' post='1371351'] This, but with pin 3 also to earth / pin 1 for unbalanced XLR. Power amp manuals usually have this explained. fillerbunny, does this only apply if the XLR input is unbalanced or does one bridge pin 3 and pin 1 in any case when coming from an unbalanced 1/4 jack output? thanks for the help.

the pre amp has 2 unbalanced 1/4" jack output connectors. the power amp has only 2 XLR inputs. if there were unbalanced inputs into the amp i would use them.

regarding signal strength, plenty of signal arriving at the power amp, no problem there. so i just get 2 cables with a 1/4 jack to a male XLR? thanks for your input

i have a pre amp with 1/4" jack line out and an output impedande of 680 ohm that i want to connect to a power amp with XLR input and an input impedance of 20Kohms. do i need a DI box or can a simple adapter be used? thanks

yeah man, it is a bummer living in remote places, i have the same trouble here in east africa. i usually order stuff and have it shipped to someone who is coming for a visit so they bring it along. just a thought.

tomb, why don't you order it from thomann? i can rhighly ecommend the 374, i play the 5 string version and love it.

i play the yamaha rbx170 and a rbx 375, weight wise they are both very balanced and have no dive, if you dig the neck of yours you should feel comfortable with any of them. i love them both, amazing value for money.

[quote name='Golchen' post='941766' date='Sep 1 2010, 11:58 AM']Thanks! I'm gonna go for it.[/quote] cool, post a report once you are done!

i just finished darkeníng a fretboard after a paintjob on one of my nasses. i tried several recommendations i found on forums but the best results i found black leather dye worked best and you get it for a few dollars. i did not even have to mask the inlays on the fretboard, the dye came of nicely with white spitrit on a cotton swab. be careful though to mask the neck very carefully along the fretboard and lay the neck fretboard down to pain the sides, allthough i taped it very neatly the dye is very runny and i had to sand off several rund where the dye went under the tape. hope this helps, have fun!