Ghost_Bass

Been using Shaller strap locks for a few years. I love the concept but had some minor issues. The nut in mine comes loose from time to time, and even using a wrench to tighten them they get loose after a few weeks. I use a Minotaur strap that's a bit thick but it shouldn't be a problem, but every time a step on stage my routine is "pick up the bass - insert jack - re-tighten strap screws by hand - tune bass".
Luckly i've found these new locks in Thomann a few seconds before doing the checkout in a recent order so one of the new sets is comming my way as i'm typing. Good thing i spotted them last week as i've only seen this thread today. I think the grub screw on the new nut is the key to solve the main problem with the old ones.

Fender Jazz = 2 pickups =/= one trick pony

Enough said  

Maybe try messaging @KiOgon on this forum, he does some nice wiring looms for basses, maybe he can build you what you need.

Sorry but i don't know enough about electronics to recomend a resistor value, the ones i used was in a passive independent stacked vol/tone circuit. You have an active circuit there so i can't say for sure the same values would be OK. Best option is to do some searches in the web and try to get an opinion from real techs.

Here's a starting point with some links to help you: 

It's an old thread, so no pictures since the site upgrade but will get you some info on the subject.

Cheers

I owned a late 70's italian Eko (gibson EB copy) with this system in a one-way truss rod so the idea isn't exactly new. I too wish more builders would use it.

Better ask Jeff Genzler directly. He won't take too long to answer your e-mail.

I would bet it's a plywood body with a (paper?) laminate on top for the sunburst... the color is all kinds of wrong

2 hours ago, NJE said:

I was really not impressed by the changes when I first heard about them, but I have done a bit of U-turn. I think they have made some valid and purposeful changes to the bass rather than just change the colour and tweak a pickup. The roasted necks look superb and the sculpted neck joint is lovely, but I still think this is big lump of money for a Stingray.

Perhaps I haven't got with the times on what things cost, but when I first started playing and fairly recently, I have bought second-hand Stingrays in immaculate condition for less than 1k, so I don't understand buying one for more than double that. I am a fan though and I have to say if I had the spare money I would love to pick up a second-hand Smoothie or Classic Ray which are a premium.

Good on them though, a really nice set of updates to a classic bass and you still have the option for a classic reproduction if they aren't your cup of tea.

Well... when a Fender sets you back close to 1.5k and doesn't have half the QC, Fit&Finish and attention to detail i can't say that Musicman is an expensive brand. They're absolutely flawless basses. well worth the 2k price tag in comparisson with the competition. It's still too rich for my pocket though.

I still want to own a SR5 in the future but mine doesn't exist (yet). EBMM are getting closer though. Now, they just need to take this, put a second humbucker and shave off the weight down to the 8-8.5lbs of the new line:

Edit: Oh! and add a Pan pot too!

1 minute ago, mcnach said:

And only a couple of years ago you could buy a Stingray 4-string for almost £1000 less...

In 2010 i bought a SR5 new, online, in a store that i believe no longer exist (guitarandampshop.co.uk or something very similar) for something close to £1150 with P&P to Portugal included. Still wish i hadn't sold it but it weighted a ton and some. At that time there was an identical one (except it had rosewood fb) in a local store with a horrible setup priced at 2300€!

What about a 5HH with the standard OVAL pg? Why they keep that huge piece of plastic on the 5ers? Looks so much better with the oval, like the Classics released a few years.

Ouch! My headstock....

6 hours ago, olipaulo said:

 

And yes, the glass has water.

 

Already forgetting about your roots???

Here's mine (beer included) 🤣:

Just now, BreadBin said:

Show off!

How's that even possible? There are no bolts to show...

😂🤣

How's the preamp in that amp. A Fender tone stack type by any chance? If so true "flat" should be around Bass 2/10 , Mid 10/10 , High 3/10. If not, there's nothing wrong in pushing the mids a bit for bite or highs for snap.

Er... hummm...

...carry on.  as you were.

16 minutes ago, Bill Fitzmaurice said:

Clipping is clipping, with both cause and effect being the same, no matter where it occurs in the signal chain. The only reason to have a clipping indicator is to warn the user of the potential for tweeter damage. Ever wonder why guitar amps don't have clip indicators? For one thing they don't use tweeters. For another they're usually clipping.

Why?

I may be wrong and i'm not an electric engineer but poweramp clipping can and will blow the PSU and/or other power stage components. I know it for the wrong reasons, back in my youth i managed to blow a PSU on a practice amp by feeding it with a very high line signal... lesson learned.

3 hours ago, Bill Fitzmaurice said:

(...)

Clipping can't harm an amp. A distortion pedal is an amp in a state of perpetual clipping.

I wasn't talking about preamp clip, i was refering to power stage clip. Preamp clip is just distortion, power amp clip is what can harm an amp. But now that you mention i think i may have missunderstood the OP. He may be talking about preamp clip.

edit: english is not my main language

There's no standard in amp design for the clipping but i'll leave you with the an idea of what most manufacturers state about clip lights: There's nothing wrong in getting it to come on from time to time but make sure it also turns off. When you get the light constantly on it's time to back off the gain a bit before you can harm the amp.

Yep, manufacturers are paying attention to what players are looking for. Lot's of people using PT and looking for small footprints. Bar/pub stage area is premium in most places. I'm guessing there are more options comming up in the future smaller, with more outputs and more affordable.

20 hours ago, dannybuoy said:

The Trutones kick butt. Mainly because you can pretty much ignore the mA labels and run silly amounts of each socket as long as you don't exceed the total for the brick.

However the Strymon looks very good also with way more juice on tap - 5x 500mA outputs: https://www.strymon.net/products/zuma-r300/

Don't forget you can run splitters and daisies off these outputs to get even more mileage out of them. You don't need to run EVERY pedal isolated. I have 2x 3-way daisies and a splitter all hanging off my DC5! Hotrox stock all the spares for Cioks too.

Thanks for the tip. Didn't know about Strymon, they do look very cool and 500mA per out is excelent. I've seen that they also have a smaller and cheaper 5 way PSU: https://www.thomann.de/pt/strymon_ojai.htm it's just 3mm taller than the Zuma and 30€ cheaper. But the Truetone is still in the lead, i don't have high current pedals in my board, can't say for sure but they all must be between 50 and 100 mA. Keep those ideas comming, there must be many like me that are unaware of the offerings of real isolated PSUs for our boards.

Cheers

There's this one:
https://www.thomann.de/pt/truetone_1_spot_pro_cs6.htm

I've been on their site and they say it's isolated like the bigger CS7 and CS12 but in a low profile that'll fit underneath a Pedaltrain. It has 6 outs at 2x500mA 2x100mA and 2x200mA, 4 of them are switchable between 9 or 12V. looks like a winner at 139€.

Any comments? this thread is starting to look like a monologue appart from the precious help from a couple of BC'ers. I'll back off on the posts for a bit.

Just another question, if i was to choose the Powerplant Jr, wich is galvanically isolated, wich two pedals should i get less noise sharing the same output?

I'm guessing the tuner is one of them and will be turned off when playing and the Compressor should be avoided as it's allways on. All other pedals are used very little appart from the GR wich gets most use. Only pedal combo i'm using ATM is octave in to wah in a bridge of one song.

I've sent a mail to Thomann and got a reply:

 

Quote

Hello

 I'm interested in this PSU ( https://www.thomann.de/pt/harley_benton_powerplant_iso_1_pro.htm ) but i have a question for you regarding the stated isolated outputs.

 Are they really isolated, this is, are the grounds individually isolated for each output or are they only separetly regulated/protected in case of short-circuits?
 If this is not really isolated can you recomend me an isolated PSU in your stock that can power 6+ pedals at 9V each (center neg.) without noises?

 Thank you
 Marco Correia - Portugal

Quote

Dear Mr Correia,

no, this is not the case.

You have really completely isolated outputs on these power supplies for example:

https://www.thomann.de/de/cioks_dc10.htm

https://www.thomann.de/de/truetone_1_spot_pro_cs12.htm


Kind regards
Alfred Reuter

I'm very happy for this type of communication from them, a fast reply without any marketing BS. It's just a shame that both suggestions from them cost close to 200€, so one more boutique pedal in that board when we look at it. I'll take a look at the smaller CIOKS offerings to see if any has enough outputs for my board, the DC5 would be perfect if it had just one more...