Prosebass Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 (edited) Just finished this bass and it has turned out rather well but I'll let you all judge that yourselves. The remit was an inexpensive good looking fretless that was a little different. I mooted the idea with a fellow basschatter and if he likes the outcome will hopefully buy the bass. Specification. Body, Jazz Style in Black Gloss Basswood Neck, Maple Fretless Slim Jazz dimensions 34" Scale Pickup, Artec Humbucker 28.0k ohms adjustable pole pieces Chrome Hardware, Elephant ear tuners, Fender style Bridge (heavy duty) Modified Jazz Scratchplate Hand-made bell plate in 3mm Perspex 1 x Vol 1 x Artec Exp unit . 9 volt active variable boost. Fully copper shielded I always use wide masking tape to protect the finish and draw on center line / scale length and position of parts. [attachment=15607:019.jpg] Scratchplate is modified / trimmed after the pickup position is finalised [attachment=15608:018.jpg] After routing cavities I always seal the wood with a quick drying spray paint. If the worst should happen and the bass gets wet at least the wood has some protection. [attachment=15609:013.jpg] Copper tape shielding is preferable to conductive paint. It costs less, is quicker to apply and can be soldered to. Also remember to run a ground wire between separate cavities that are not electrically connected with the shielding tape. [attachment=15610:011.jpg] Humbucker is a snug fit. Adhesive foam is fitted to its underside to afford some shock protection. Note copper shielding to sides of the pup. When the cover is fitted the pup is totally enclosed and excellently shielded. [attachment=15611:010.jpg] When drilling any holes in a body, especially a painted / poly coated body it is essential to chamfer / countersink the holes. I have recently seen expensive basses (£650.00 plus) that do not do this with resulting damage to the finish. As the screw enters the hole the screw thread will lift any coating and if it is brittle will snap bits of it off. Cut the chamfer gently by hand and not with a power tool. [attachment=15612:012.jpg] Remember to shield the underside of control plates and scratchplates if over a cavity. I even put copper tape under metal control plates as copper is easier to solder ground wires to. [attachment=15613:015.jpg] Try not to solder ground wires to the back of pots. It looks a mess, makes replacement harder and excess heat can damage the carbon track and contact. Try to set the controls out to keep the wire runs to a minimum. [attachment=15614:017.jpg] One thing I hate is the size of screws supplied with tuners. They are generally too small, they can snap and the heads can strip. I always use oversize self tapping screw with a huge head and chunky diameter. Always remember to drill correct sized pilot holes (the diameter of the screw shaft) and drill to the depth of the screw to avoid any wood splitting problems in the future. [attachment=15615:008.jpg] Finished fitting with "chunky" screws. A general point with screws is that a lot of inexpensive hardware is let down by very poor quality cast screws from the far east. They are easily recognized as the threads are generally very rough. I always try to find a good quality steel or brass alternative. [attachment=15617:014.jpg] A small hint on cleaning is to use methylated spirits with a lint free cloth. It is excellent for removing adhesive and evaporates off, leaving lovely psychedelic patterns as it does. It is very inflammable so use well ventilated and don't smoke. As always test a small area of the finish to check there is no reaction. Don't be temped to drink....it tastes awful. [attachment=15623:016.jpg] The finished Bass [attachment=15618:006.jpg] [attachment=15620:007.jpg] [attachment=15621:005.jpg] [attachment=15622:001.jpg] The tone is like a cross between an early Precision and an EB-0. Very percussive and tight. Although not bright in a Jazz sense it has a very clear tone. Output is high and due to the correct shielding is very quiet. Action is set at 3mm and it plays very nice , the neck has surprised me in that it feels much nicer than a rosewood board. To the moderators....if you think this belongs in the tips or technical section or elsewhere then feel free to move the post Edited November 6, 2008 by Prosebass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzz Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 28.0k ohm ? That's crazy output! Does it sound good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Protium Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 That is very very nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve-soar Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 [quote name='Buzz' post='322853' date='Nov 5 2008, 06:26 PM']28.0k ohm ? That's crazy output! Does it sound good?[/quote]Bloody hell that's a nuts output!!! I love the look of this bass, much, much better that all the others, in fact if I was flush and a righty, I'd buy it. Well done my friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prosebass Posted November 6, 2008 Author Share Posted November 6, 2008 (edited) [quote name='Buzz' post='322853' date='Nov 5 2008, 06:26 PM']28.0k ohm ? That's crazy output! Does it sound good?[/quote] The humbucker is a twin coil (obviously) and each individual coil is 14k ohms. These are big pickups with 4 magnets (2 to each side) with the coils at 90 degrees to the normal layout ,ie on their side. They are also heavy at approx 450 grams so 1 LB each. Output is also dependent on other factors and although these are 28k ohms the output is similar to Musicman or Precision pickups which are in the 12-14k ohms range. As a general rule of thumb the lower the DC resistance the more treble response / higher the better bass response. The pickup also suits its position as I was after a smooth rounded punchy sound without the rasp of a precision pickup or the clangyness of a Jazz sound. A Jazz single coil would not sound right in a position so close to the neck as they are generally suited to highs and mids. A Precision pickup would probably of sounded similar to the Humbucker in this position but would have looked wrong. As an attempt to get the sound I was after it has certainly worked but it has a very specific sound and if you like a Jazzy cutting sound (Jaco/Geddy) then this is not the bass you would choose. [attachment=15657:IMG_0705.JPG] You can see the sideways on coils here. Edited November 6, 2008 by Prosebass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopthebass Posted November 6, 2008 Share Posted November 6, 2008 Very nice Paul. You don't see many maple fingerboard fretless basses. The last time I saw one was when Sting was playing one, and I think it was an Explorer style body. I used an Artec pickup on a budget build and I have to say they sound brilliant. They are peanuts to buy! Well worth a try. Keep up the good work. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Protium Posted November 6, 2008 Share Posted November 6, 2008 How much could you make one of these for (but fretted, passive plus a jazz bridge pickup)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prosebass Posted November 6, 2008 Author Share Posted November 6, 2008 [quote name='Protium' post='323576' date='Nov 6 2008, 05:21 PM']How much could you make one of these for (but fretted, passive plus a jazz bridge pickup)?[/quote] Pm'd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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