Best replacement speakers for G-K 210T cab

[SimonH]

Hi - got a G-K 210T (2 x 10 cab) which has a pair of 150 watt, 8 ohm 10in cones in it that...

1) aren't original... can't remember what they're called but I think they were budget, and

2) are no longer of this earth after I re-wired them from 4 ohm total to 8 ohm, then blew them up. Doh.

I'd like to recone the cab, and turn it into a neat little combo with a suitable compact head. 500 wats or so should be plenty for pubs and smaller weddings, but I'd like the option to run the combo into my 8 ohm MB HF410 for a bigger sound when required.

So... if you made it this far, thanks! The question is, what cones should I purchase, and from whom? Weight and cost aren't necessarily an issue (unless it's, like, a squillion quid). As a further note, I've been told it's tight between the cones in the cab, and I have to make sure the cones' outside diameter isn't too big... but I can check this. Or bodge it.

Many thanks for all suggestions.

Simon H

Edited September 5, 2012 by SimonH

[brensabre79]

Definitely go with the original spec drivers.
The cabinet is designed for these and not for any other.
GK use [url="http://secure.netsolhost.com/272252.276452/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=GS&Category_Code=S8"]Paragon drivers[/url] for many of their cabs.
I'm not sure on the exact model of yours but maybe you can contact GK.

Anything else you put in there will probably require you change the dimensions of the cabinet or at the very least the port length. Easiest option is to replace with OEM.

[brensabre79]

GK in the UK:

[font="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"][color="#000000"]POLAR AUDIO LTD. [/color][/font]
[font="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"][color="#000000"]17 ALBERT DR.
BURGESS HILL
WEST SUSSEX RH15 9TN ENGLAND
01444-258258
01444-258444
[email="[email protected]"][email protected][/email]
[url="http://www.polaraudio.co.uk/"]www.polaraudio.co.uk[/url][/color][/font]

[SimonH]

That's absolutely brilliant. Thank you! Exactly the sound, clear-cut advice and info I need.

Just goes to show you shouldn't believe the internet forums that say you shouldn't believe anything you read on internet forums... :-)

[brensabre79]

No worries, hope you get it sorted!

[barkin]

[quote name='SimonH' timestamp='1346863837' post='1794205']
Hi - got a G-K 210T (2 x 10 cab) which has a pair of 150 watt, 8 ohm 10in cones in it that...

1) aren't original... can't remember what they're called but I think they were budget, and

2) are no longer of this earth after I re-wired them from 4 ohm total to 8 ohm, then blew them up. Doh.

[/quote]

2 x 8 Ohm drivers in series = 16 Ohm
2 x 8 Ohm wired in parallel = 4 Ohm

How'd you manage to rewire for 8 Ohm ?

Just curious...

[stevie]

[quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1346926406' post='1794832']
Easiest option is to replace with OEM.
[/quote]
Whilst this is undoubtedly true, it is highly unlikely that they will be the 'best' replacement speakers for that cab, given that the it is a budget model.

Simon, it's not so much the outer diameter of the cones that matters but the diameter of the chassis (and the diameter of the cutout). Although they are both nominally 10 inches, a cast chassis (i.e. better quality) is usually bigger than a pressed steel chassis, which is probably what you have now. If you were to fit speakers with a cast chassis you might not get them in the box. Measure and check against the driver manufacturer's specs.

[brensabre79]

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1346938752' post='1795059']
Whilst this is undoubtedly true, it is highly unlikely that they will be the 'best' replacement speakers for that cab, given that the it is a budget model.
[/quote]

I think the tuning of the cabinet is more important than the diameter of the chassis.
There are probably many many better drivers out there that would fit. I've got 4 SWR 10" PAS drivers in my loft that would probably fit in the holes in the front of the cab. The thing is the cabinet dimensions and port were designed for the drivers that were originally in there.

Unless you're into building cabinets and have the software and knowledge to calculate all the T&S parameters to get a driver that suits the cabinet volume and port length, you're gonna have a sh*t sounding cab, most likely with a huge peak at a certain frequency and a huge dip at another. Meaning that even with a better driver, you'll have to use drastic EQ to compensate and your cab won't be very efficient... so you'd probably be better off with the OEM drivers - even if they are the budget ones.

On the other hand, you might be lucky and find that the internal volume of the cab is the same as a much more expensive one that uses better drivers - in which case get those.