Adjusting /Re-Cutting Bridge on Double Bass

[Stompbox]

[size=4]Following on from my previous “article” about adjusting the slots in the nut of my double bass, here’s a description of recutting and adjusting the bridge.
Again I was inspired by the link I was sent:-

[url="http://www.dennishavlena.com/bassetup.htm"]http://www.dennishav...om/bassetup.htm[/url]
The action on my bass was too high, but having read the ideas from those set out in the above link, I took a different approach to re-cutting the bridge.

[attachment=111878:Bridge 1.jpg][/size]

[color=#000000]I measured the height of the strings & then made up a series of gauge blocks out of Hardboard, and some of the 0.6mm thick card that I have – which I used in adjusting the nut. I glued them together with PVA glue and left them overnight. I measured their thickness, and then was able to put one or two together, or to have one with one or two pieces of card to make up a whole range of thicknesses that would be suitable for the lowered string heights.[/color]
[color=#000000][attachment=111879:bridge 2.jpg][/color]
[color=#000000]Next I used both a small padsaw, and a small round file (out of the set of files I used on the nut) to slot the bridge more deeply, again doing just one string at a time. [/color]

[color=#000000][attachment=111880:bridge 3.jpg][/color]

[color=#000000]I marked the bridge to show what I thought would be the right depth, but to check I kept re-stringing the one I was adjusting & putting the appropriate combination of thickness blocks under the string to see if I had cut the bridge to the right depth. [/color]

[color=#000000][attachment=111882:Bridge 4.jpg][/color]

[color=#000000]As soon as the string JUST held the block, then I was at the right height.[/color]

[color=#000000][attachment=111884:Bridge 7.jpg][/color]

[color=#000000]By keeping on checking, I eventually got to the string clearances that I wanted. It was a slow thing to do, and I had to keep on making sure that the bridge was vertical, and that it was in the right place on the instrument. I also played the bass to check the strings felt OK & were not too low & slapping the fingerboard. [/color]


[color=#000000]I did, in fact, cut one of the slots very slightly too deep[/color]
[color=#000000]So I used a small piece of cocktail stick, cut to length (ie: the thickness of the bridge) and glued it in the bottom of the offending slot with Superglue & let it dry overnight, then carefully re-filed it.[/color]

[color=#000000]The next step was to take the excess wood off the top of the bridge so that the strings were only “sunk in” to the bridge by half their own depth.[/color]

[color=#000000]This was a pretty straightforward job - I clamped the bridge to my bench, leaving the part to be filed overhanging the edge and I used a big, flat medium file, and then finished it off with sandpaper, then fine wet or dry paper, and polished it with fine wire wool. [/color]
[color=#000000][attachment=111886:Bridge 6.jpg][/color]

[color=#000000]I got all the old marks off the bridge, and, at the same time I was able to check how flat the bridge was, as I had a concern that it had “bowed”. [/color]
[color=#000000]In fact when I checked, the bridge was fine – completely flat on one side, it was just on the other side where it had been rounded off at the top that made it appear to be curved overall.[/color]

[color=#000000]So that's the approach that I took to adjust my bridge, it worked for me & I'm pleased with the result.[/color]

[ChrisF]

Great article and pictures....hopefully mine wont need any adjustment when I get it.But Ive always thought it would be a fairly easy procedure..and this proves it..nice one

[Stompbox]

I've just put what will hopefully be a very useful new post on - it relates to settingup bridges & really is a must for double bass players - this is the link to it:-

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/180540-make-one-of-these-for-your-bass-bridge-distance-piece/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/180540-make-one-of-these-for-your-bass-bridge-distance-piece/[/url]

[iiipopes]

Yes, to make sure the bridge is both placed correctly and perfectly upright, a combination of pencil marks connecting the f hole notches to center the feet and the template to assure vertical alignment are both good to have.

[Pascaldanns]

Hi. I am new to this forum.  Can you tell me how to view the pictures attached to the page as I am trying to follow the instructtions you have provided.  Many thanks Pascal

[Dad3353]

17 minutes ago, Pascaldanns said:

Hi. I am new to this forum.  Can you tell me how to view the pictures attached to the page as I am trying to follow the instructtions you have provided.  Many thanks Pascal

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