A couple of bass issues

[Jorn Overa]

Hi there.

I've got a pretty important gig next week, and there are a couple of problems with my bass which would ideally be sorted out by then.

First of all, whenever a pick a string around the bridge pick-up, the string seems to be lifting the saddle and slamming it back down, making a rather nasty popping sound. I don't think it comes through on my amp, but it's distracting while I play. Another saddle-related issue is that my B and A string often 'fall off' their thread, meaning the action will suddenly be very low.

The other issue is that I'm getting some serious fret buzz issues, particularly around the 3rd (on the E) and 8th and 12th frets (on most strings). I bought a set-up kit and some new strings, but it doesn't seem to have helped anything.

If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears.

[andydye]

is your bass strung through bridge rather than through body? it sounds like there isn't enough angle between where the string comes out of the back of the bridge and where it goes over the saddle, this is what stops the saddles from flopping up and down...falling off the thread on the saddle sounds like the same issue...

for fret buzzing between 1st and 12th string I'd be looking first at the curvature of the neck, if you sight down the neck from the headstock end, using a string as a straightedge as you look, does the neck appear dead straight (not so clever), convex (bowed out towards the strings (not at all good) or slightly concave (much more like it)?

Another test you could would be to fret both the 1st and 12th frets on the e string and see how much clearance the string has at about the 7th fret, if it's touching there's not enough curvature (concave-ness) on the neck, if it's not then there might be something else wrong.

If you have buzzing at 13th fret or higher then it's generally a raise the saddles type fix.

If any of the above don't help it might be a fret problem rather than a neck problem which (for me) means find a luthier to have a look at it or the neck might need some kind of shim (which again needs a luthier for me!)...

[Ou7shined]

Hi Jorn. welcome to Basschat.
What type of bass is it... and can you post a close-up picture of you bridge please?


[quote name='andydye' timestamp='1335514034' post='1632320']...If you have buzzing at 13th fret or higher then it's generally a raise the saddles type fix.
....
[/quote]

It also suggests that there may be too much bow to the neck and the truss rod needs tightening.

[Jorn Overa]

Hi guys. Thanks for your swift responses.

It's an Ibanez SR305. I've just done the tests you suggested. The neck curves slightly away from the strings, and with the 1st and 12th frets held down, the strings are very close to the frets, but not quite touching. With the 1st and 24th frets held down, there's 0.14" clearance.

And here are a couple of pictures of the bridge, as requested:

[brensabre79]

Hmm not sure if your action might be a bit low for your playing style. It looks like your saddles need to be higher to sort the bridge problem out, I'm not familiar with that particular bridge design but it looks like the strings may be too thick for the grooves so they are sitting on top rather than IN them. The G looks ok - like its inside the groove, but as you get toward the B they look to be not quite fitting inside. Of course if they were inside then you'd have to increase the saddle height to compensate.

If you're happy with the string height from the fretboard and the trussrod is adjusted ok then it could be that you need to shim the neck angle slightly to get a higher bridge saddle with the same action height (is it a bolt on neck?). That way the break angle of the bridge will give you a better purchase, so the saddle should sit tight and the strings won't pop out of position...

[Ou7shined]

Ok firstly what I'm seeing is that your bridge saddles need to be opened up slightly in order to accept your chosen string gauge.

With these types of bridge as the saddle is brought backwards to intonate it they can sometimes be made to lift off the base plate a little - this can be alleviated somewhat by setting the curvature of the neck and adjusting the action accordingly. I'm presuming you are down tuned yes? The looseness you can sometimes get with down tuning can compound this lifting problem as there is less tension to pull the saddle down hard onto the base plate.

I suggest you take your bass to your local luthier (not a just guitar shop if you can help it) and have him/her open up the saddles and set the truss rod and action for you.

Edited April 27, 2012 by Ou7shined

[BOD2]

Another option would be to shim the neck a little. That would allow you to raise the bridge saddles which would result in greater break angles and more downward pressure on the strings at the bridge.

[Jorn Overa]

Brensabre:

I think you're right, they're not really inside the hole. Any ideas of how I could make them fit? Or does it not really work like that?
And yeah, there are four large screws where the neck joins the body, which I'm assuming is what you mean by bolt-on.

Ou7shined:
I'm using standard tuning. The strings are Ernie Balls, gauges 45 65 80 100 130. Is this a regular set?
And yeah, maybe a luthier would be a safe bet.

BOD2:
I've had a look at your shimming tutorial. Would you say there's any risk to doing this, especially before my gig?

Thank you all for your help.

[brensabre79]

I think a luthier would be the safest bet for you Jorn.
Adjusting the bridge (probably filing out the saddles a bit wider to suit your string gauge) and the neck shim are both best done by someone who knows what they are doing.
The only risk doing the neck shim yourself is that you shim too much which is completely reversible. At worst you'll go back to how it is now by simply removing the shim. The bridge job is not reversible. Plus, after either of these the bass will need a proper set up again. Hence a luthier would be a good choice if you want it done right and reasonably quickly.
Not sure where you're based but there's a thread in this section (stickied at the top) of recommended luthiers in the UK.

[Ou7shined]

[quote name='Jorn Overa' timestamp='1335529366' post='1632678']
...Ou7shined:
I'm using standard tuning. The strings are Ernie Balls, gauges 45 65 80 100 130. Is this a regular set?
And yeah, maybe a luthier would be a safe bet.
...[/quote]

Yeah those are nice strings (Regular Slinkys) ... use them myself occassionally. They aren't overly mahoosive so I'm a little surprised they don't fit the saddles. I don't recall them being overly complient either.

You can do a test shim youself with a strip off the side of a Frosties packet to see if that's what will do it but my guess is that it simply needs a set of experienced hands on it to set it right... anyway you need to get the saddles done and he'll set it up right for you after that as part of the sevice.

[BOD2]

[quote name='Jorn Overa' timestamp='1335529366' post='1632678']
BOD2:
I've had a look at your shimming tutorial. Would you say there's any risk to doing this, especially before my gig?

Thank you all for your help.
[/quote]

If you're comfortable removing the neck from a bass (and it's straightforward enough, as you can see) then there's no "risk" as such and whatever you do is completely reversible by removing any shim. In this case a shim at the body end of the neck pocket would tilt the neck a little and allow you to then raise the bridge saddles to compensate.

But some people, quite understanably, prefer to leave these things to an expert. The guide is intended for people who like to take things apart and are happy to do that sort of thing.

[mushers]

i had the same bridge on my sr505 never had the strings jumping out however i did stick with elixir strings (which came on it ) where the b and the e string had a taper on them at the bridge
as other have suggested get the saddles sorted

[Jorn Overa]

Thank you all for your assistance. I'll try a shim and look up luthiers.

Cheers all.

[brensabre79]

That makes a lot of sense. If you go back to tapered strings you will need to increase the bridge height to compensate. This may well solve all of your worries as the break angle will be greater. You might not need to shim the neck at all, or carve out the saddles, so a set of tapered strings may be all you need!