Ambrosia Maple 'Lobe' Wishbass Re-Vamp

[Billy Apple]

Hi All,

Welcome to my Ambrosia Maple Wishbass Lobe re-vamp. She arrived from Mr Wishnevski a couple of weeks ago, and was perfectly playable, with a wonderful tone. Very light-weight, superbly balanced and comfortable. The stock strings were awful, but apart from that the hardware is pretty good. Yes, no truss rod, but the neck is very solid and I can't put a flex in it at all, so can't see it moving much.

[u][b]As she arrived from the States..[/b][/u]

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/GnuxEl.jpg[/IMG]


Anyway, I've pulled everything off, and I'm about to unleash the sander.

[Mr. Foxen]

I found sanding with the grain somewhat challenging with mine. Have you considered cabinet scrapers? Ideal for purpose and style.

[Billy Apple]

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1325167251' post='1480432']
I found sanding with the grain somewhat challenging with mine. Have you considered cabinet scrapers? Ideal for purpose and style.
[/quote]

I started off with the power sander, but it was too big and powerful. So just got on with it by hand. I started with 60 grit paper, and that ran out quickly leaving me with 80 grit which was slow going on the maple. I was outside, and now it's dark. A trip to B&Q is in order for some monster grit paper. I'm not sure what you mean by cabinet scrapers, but I was looking at spoke shaves at Screwfix for about £17, but I think they would be a little OTT as not much wood needs removing. I like using the paper as you can feel the wood as you go. Remind me, what oil did you use on yours in the end?

[Billy Apple]

Just Googled cabinet scraper. It looks very similar to a spoke shave, hard to tell the difference by the pictures.

[Mr. Foxen]

The green stuff on a roll is aggressive and lasts, for shaping and getting rid of router marks. Cabinet scrapers are what was used pre sandpaper for really flat fine finishes on cabinets: http://woodgears.ca/scraper/index.html used perpendicular rather than cutting, they scrap a layer off.

I used Rustins danish oil. Can only recommend Rustins, other danish oils haven't been as good for me. The 250ml small bottle is plenty for a bass, and some white spirit to thing the early coats. Long process, mine still smells of stale nuts as the oil polymerises after the solvents evaporate.

[Billy Apple]

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1325176111' post='1480610']
The green stuff on a roll is aggressive and lasts, for shaping and getting rid of router marks. Cabinet scrapers are what was used pre sandpaper for really flat fine finishes on cabinets: [url="http://woodgears.ca/scraper/index.html"]http://woodgears.ca/scraper/index.html[/url] used perpendicular rather than cutting, they scrap a layer off.

I used Rustins danish oil. Can only recommend Rustins, other danish oils haven't been as good for me. The 250ml small bottle is plenty for a bass, and some white spirit to thing the early coats. Long process, mine still smells of stale nuts as the oil polymerises after the solvents evaporate.
[/quote]

The two Oils I can find are Danish and Tung Oil, do you know much about the Tung? Plus, ever come across Tru-Oil?

[Billy Apple]

The fruits of today's labour... Smoothing out the upper horn and bout...

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/EbPo9l.jpg[/IMG]

[Mr. Foxen]

[quote name='billyapple' timestamp='1325179200' post='1480671']
The two Oils I can find are Danish and Tung Oil, do you know much about the Tung? Plus, ever come across Tru-Oil?
[/quote]

Tung oil is oil from Tung nuts, you have to thin it with white spirit and build it up from 10% solution to pure oil over months for the ultimate finish. Rustins Danish oil is Tung oil and dryers and thinners to make it easier to wipe on and go smooth in a premixed style. Other brands of danish oil can work in different ways, some are varnish in an oily base to wipe on, and these ones are kind of bad. Tru-oil is linseed oil based, and is for gunstocks, it should give a good finish but I've no experience with it. Tru-oil is pretty recommended. I like the warm glow thing that danish oil does, think tru oil is a tougher finish since its for gunstocks, out in the weather and such, looks more like satin varnish when its done.

This is the stuff I use: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rustins-Danish-Oil-Interior-Exterior-Use-250ml-/310353767408?pt=UK_BOI_Building_Materials_Supplies_Carpentry_Woodwork_ET&hash=item484286abf0

Can prob get cheaper if you look about.

Edited December 29, 2011 by Mr. Foxen

[Billy Apple]

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1325181072' post='1480700']
Tung oil is oil from Tung nuts, you have to thin it with white spirit and build it up from 10% solution to pure oil over months for the ultimate finish. Rustins Danish oil is Tung oil and dryers and thinners to make it easier to wipe on and go smooth in a premixed style. Other brands of danish oil can work in different ways, some are varnish in an oily base to wipe on, and these ones are kind of bad. Tru-oil is linseed oil based, and is for gunstocks, it should give a good finish but I've no experience with it. Tru-oil is pretty recommended. I like the warm glow thing that danish oil does, think tru oil is a tougher finish since its for gunstocks, out in the weather and such, looks more like satin varnish when its done.

This is the stuff I use: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rustins-Danish-Oil-Interior-Exterior-Use-250ml-/310353767408?pt=UK_BOI_Building_Materials_Supplies_Carpentry_Woodwork_ET&hash=item484286abf0"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item484286abf0[/url]

Can prob get cheaper if you look about.
[/quote]

Cheers for the info