Bassnut62

[quote name='andyjingram' post='807899' date='Apr 16 2010, 12:38 AM']Well unfortunately I can't offer much on the SFT from experience, but the clips on their site and youtube are pretty useful. Along with the other pedals I mentioned earlier, I was also looking at the Way Huge Pork Loin to do a similar job, but couldn't find anywhere to try one out. That said, I bought an SFT without trying thanks to the endorsements enclosed in this thread, so there you go![/quote]

reckon I'll be doing the same shortly and shelling out blind for an SFT.
it's so frustrating not having many outlets in UK where you can actually try all this great US gear under one roof, or even just a few of them.
but then I bet our cousins across the water are all saying the same about some great UK gear too.

very interesting thread this.

I've been seriously looking at an SFT for more subtle crunch, drive and OD end of things to compliment the full-on fuzzed-up loonacy I use a Woolly Mammoth for.

Like the OP, I just can't get excited about the Sansamp and VT stuff. I was up for a Pickle Pie B; but not sure it can do the subtle hair end of things and the dynamics like the SFT appears to. BTW I do want the full-on dirt end of the SFT too as this seems more controllable like a rapier than the sledgehammer distortion of the Woolly Mammoth.

Seems like the SFT is the one to go for. Anyone got any more comments/thoughts fr me?

So Tayste, you might be getting another PM from me soon...hope that's OK!

got a JM4 Deluxe a year ago (made in 2008) and it is frighteningly good.
It's my go-to bass now over a 63 Precision, 79 Stingray and 89 G&L Asat

if you end up not selling the Russian Balls for some reason, please let me know.
Either way can you tell me what is different about the Russion version compared to the US one?
Ta

Haven't tried the RV-5 and don't want to!
I have had the RV-3 for about 10 years and frankly I wouldn't bother with the reverb side.
The delay is only OK too.

I prefer analog over digital every time.

The Boss reverb is so thin, metallic and fake.
The digital side is very sterile too.
Also IME tone-suckage of cheap Boss gear is generally horrible too.

I hope I haven't disappointed you there.
If I was after a reverb unit, I would be checking out the one Gnasher1993 has been selling on this forum and on Talk Bass.

Great and brave question! That song is so naff, many would not admit to liking anything about it.
But you're right that is an interesting bass sound.

Some kind of treated chorus would be my natural instinct.
Somehow tremolo jumps into my mind; but i've never used one.
I would like to know the answer to your question too.

I bet you would get the answer from the folk on the Talk Bass forum. Have you tried there?

+1 re Bass Balls and BMS, especially for old metal ones.
+1 re BMS thru Bass Balls and for BMS thru other effects.

I actually think the Bass Balls is a highly under-rated and extremely useful pedal. It's subtle and that's the point of it.
If you want an out and out funk filter I agree the Mini QTron (old metal) is great and can get right up in your face. That's why I kept my Bass Balls beside it, to offer a gentler option and two guite different flavours.

Then I replaced the EHX filters with a Groove Regulator too! And I run fuzz thru the loop and before the GR too!! What a great and versatile filter it is; but guess what.....that Bass Balls has crept back on my board. Like I said, what an under-rated effect it is.

As for octavers, asbo-freakin-lootly.....especially with all that fuzz and filtering. I got the new MXR BOD and it works so well with the GR, the Bass Balls and the fuzz or just on its own. I've heard alot of people say how the OC-2 can be a bit glitchy in its tracking, but does have great tone and growl. Many people say the BOD captures all the OC2 tones and fixes tracking and adds other improvements. I am certainly very happy with the MXR as a juicy and clear toned and affordable Octave that blends well with other effects. I've even tried running my BMS thru the BOD; but when tiles started falling off the roof, i thought better of using that combo too often.

[quote name='artisan' post='770555' date='Mar 10 2010, 03:57 PM']amen brother [/quote]

I spy a Fabulous Furry Freak Brother
hwo

How's Phineas?!

i only get one BGM per month and am starting to think I don't even want that one!
What does anyone else think about BGM and its content these days?

PM'd re Orbit

[quote name='josh3184' post='782384' date='Mar 22 2010, 09:29 AM']I know what you mean about the sound, my $$ never managed to get the Ray tone but it never needed to, every sound it put out was just fantastic in a rock context and it could hold its own with other styles too. I'd say its much more mid-rangey (not a word) but less top end, didn't really have the zing of the Ray, and in my experience that's not a bad thing. Sometimes I spend age trying to EQ the zing away All changed when I got the pre-EB Ray though, much stronger towards the lower end than the more recent Rays, and the neck cannot be beaten. Its a genuinely brilliant bass, feels like you can't pklay a note wrong[/quote]

+1 re pre-EB Ray.

From 1984 to 2000 it was my only bass and I never found my sound didn't fit into many different contexts.
Also none of the EB Rays come even close to it for sound, playability, looks, etc.
Almost however much it costs to get a pre-EB Ray, it would be worth it for both enjoyment and future resale value IMO; although like me you will probably never want to sell it.

PM'd re pedaltrain

Huge Double Bump for this amazing amp.

I've had mine for over 10 years and will NEVER part with it. For most output it is definitely best to run it into a 4 ohm cab - i use a matching Bassman 2x15 cab that has been massively strengthened from original spec, which was always a bit flimsy. I also use it with an 8ohm 1x15 cab for smaller quieter gigs and recording.

NB. If you want grit and balls this amp has it in spades; but you gotta know how to get it. To do this:
- put bass into input 1 of bass channel.
- run a patch lead from input 2 of bass channel into input 1 of normal channel.
Congratulations, you have just hot-wired your amp to run both sides of the pre-amp valves, for extra grit, punch and volume.
Now run all settings at 10, if you dare!

The other great side of this amp is that you can keep it very clean at top volume, with little in the way of distortion.
So you can get max volume out of amp and you can always stick a good fuzz pedal in front if you want more gain and dirt.

Last thing; these amps do sound best when gain and power stages are both run above 7-8.

Whoever gets this amp is a very lucky person IMO.
Bumpety Bump!

Hi
Interested in the George L patch cables - specifically I would like to know:
How many straight jacks and how many right-angle jacks are included?
How much cable is included and in what lengths?

Also, nice avatar - that Augustus Pable LP is one of my faves!

Ta
Bassnut


[quote name='rick-blood' post='779152' date='Mar 18 2010, 09:41 PM']Engl Savage Special edition with Z10 footswitch & Flightcase - Very versatile 4 channel top end modern amp that is ram packed with features. £1400

Malekko Echo 300 bright - One the best analog delay pedals out there £150

Malekko spring chicken deluxe / Mint condition / Boxed with paperwork ... Offers
This pedal is only 1 of 50 made,unfortunately it has a fault.The pedal turns on but when reverb is activated there is no sound,when the reverb is bypassed the signal passes through as normal. I think something came loose when it was shipped,will be an easy fix

Pedaltrain sc 2 £80

Set of George L patch leads £45

SE Electronics SE4 Stereo condenser mics £285
Sound great as drum overheads,on acoustic guitars,choirs,piano etc..

5 x TRS TO Male XLR 1M Van Damme patch Leads with Neutrik connections



I'm after : Maple necked tele,Gibson ES335(Cherry Red),EBS HD 350,Fender maple neck P Bass(Jap/Usa),Aguilar AG 500,Markbass Lmk,Eastman,Gretsch,Heritage or other High quality Arch top.[/quote]

You might all want to duck as this curve ball comes in!................
You might want to forget both MM & G&L and go for a Sandberg California JM4 (or JM5 if you prefer).
I have both a 79 Ray and an 89 G&L Asat. They're both great basses and I would never part with either, especially the Ray, which I'm pleased to say does not have a weak G string.
However for all-round quality and ability to cover all sounds/basses in this thread, it is the dogs.........
You can dial in a very good MM sound and you've got all the options of Jazz sounds and it can be passive or active.
The treble and bass tone controls are both cut and boost too, for added flexibility.
These California JMs have captured the magic of Leo's bass DNA and taken it to the next place he may well have gone after G&L, had he stayed with us longer.
The Sandberg California can cover a lot of the same territory as the G&L Asat or L-2000 too.

here's probably the besy bass I've ever owned and will never part with - '79 Stingray that cost me two Fenders in a trade in '84. The Stingray was and is that good.

The G&L Asat also in pic is an 89, also from when Leo owned the company - this one's a signature model too.

i'm also into funk & rock - so here are a few suggestions that might be worth checking out or not.....
ZVex Woolly Mammoth
Wren & Cuff Pickle Pie B
CoPilotFX Orbit
OLC Chunky Cheese
ZVex Mastotron

There are clips of all these with bass floating around the net
BassFuzz.com would be a good place to start looking too.

I am amazed by how many basses some people have owned.
Here's my list anyway in more or less chronological order:

[list=1]
[*]Sakura Precision copy bought in 1979 for £65
[*]Westone Thunder 1A PX'd against the Sakura in about 1981
[*]Ibanez Ricky 4001 copy PX'd against the Westone in about 1982; sold in about 1983
[*]Baldwin semi-accoustic 1960s bass with Rezo-tube - very weird, bought in about 1982 for probably around £250 and quickly sold it
[*]Epiphone EB0 semi-accoustic from about 1963 bought fro £650 in 1983 - nice bass, but wasn't versatile enough; sold to a mate for £550
[*]Fender Jazz USA 1980-ish bought for £200 in about 1983
[*]Fender Precision fretless USA approx 1976 bought for £250 in about 1984
[*]MusicMan Stingray 1979 natural PX'd against the two Fenders in 1984. I still have this bass and can't imagine ever selling it - it is so good & now beautifully worn in by my own hand. I didn't own or use any other bass than the Stingray until about 1995
[*]Fender Telcaster USA 1974 blonde bought for £950 in 1995 - nice bass, but only one very phat bassy sound and too little definition
[*]Fender P USA 1979 swapped for Fender Tele in about 1996 - crap Precision that turned out to be 3 different basses, crap deal too. Sold for £550 in 1996
[*]Fender P Deluxe USA 1996 bought new for £750 and sold for £650 in 1997
[*]Fender P 1963 bought for £1250 in 1997 - all original P, very well refinned tho - great bass, bought with a small inheritance from my Granny - will never be sold, it's named after her too.
[*]G&L Asat Bass 1989 signature model, bought for £550 - great and very versatile bass. I still own this one.
[*]Sandberg California JM4 Deluxe 2008, bought new for £1050 in 2009 - awesome bass that carries on the Fender tradition very well - I don't expect to part with this.
[/list]

I reckon there are rubbish Fenders from all years and there are truly great ones from some periods, but not all periods.

As they get older, they often seem to me to get better.
I'm not sure why; but it could be the pups age well or maybe it's the resonance of the wood beds in better over time.
The neck profiles changed and I think the pup positions changed alot too; so maybe that has something to do with it.

As for value, clearly they can be a good investment - IF you get a good one; but it does have to be original. I reckon a refinish can be OK if done well; but even that will reduce value. Alien bridges, pups, machine heads, necks, pick guards are a total no-no IMO, if we're talking holding value. Collectors always want max originality in any market, just watch Antiques Roadshow!

Another trick is look out for non-Fender Fenders, i.e. original MM Stingrays or G&Ls. There is no question that Leo had the midas touch and was a true genius and it seems to me there was much better quality control when Leo owned the companies. After he left the bean-counters often seem to have taken over and reduced quality of parts. Also some of the magic seems to walk out the door with Leo. Early G&Ls seem like a great investment for the future and are seriously good basses.

Lastly, if you want a great 2010 Fender and a future classic, buy a Sandberg California. I got a California JM4 Deluxe a few years ago and it is a better guitar than any of the Fenders I've owned and it sounds great too; but it can't quite nail that old Leo sound. I reckon he would have been happy to see his DNA being carried on in the Sandberg 'Fenders'.

So here are the best periods as I see them:
Fenders pre 74
Musicmans pre 80
G&Ls pre 91

Fenders seem to have got better again from about 95; but that Leo magic isn't there IMHO.

+ yet another 1 re Sandberg
I have a beautiful California JM4 Deluxe, black with with off-white pearl block inlays and pickguard. Stunning looking, stunning sounding, stunning build, stunning price for such quality and custom build.
What's not to love?
Put it like this, having got the Sandberg a year ago, the following great basses are relegated to the cupboard - 63 Precision, 79 MM Stingray and 89 G&L Asat (all three are the real deal too).
I honestly think Leo Fender would have been full of admiration for what Henrik and co at Sandberg have done with his concepts.

IMO a very very good and under-rated valve head is the Fender Bassman 135. And they're not too dear either. Mine has been as reliable as anything else. I've not GASed for anything else for over 10 years now, so I guess that speaks for itself. I do now have a hybrid Hartke H350w to back it up and leave at rehearsal studio; but I only gig and record with the Bassman.

PM'd re 2U case

Hi
i used to have a Boss AW-2 auto wah and it dropped my bottom every time and a bit of volume. My cheap solution was to get a Bass EQ pedal and set it to compensate for the drop in bass & volume and set it up so I could activate both at same time, ideally through a blender.

The better solution is to get a better wah that is dedicated to bass - EHX QTron or Bassballs are both good. I am now using a 3Leaf Groove Regulator though as it has an FX loop, which is a lot of fun for adding fuzz, octave, delay, etc to the wah.

All these wahs are basscentric and retain volume and bottom. They work great for guitards too.


[quote name='Mog' post='760896' date='Mar 1 2010, 04:29 PM']Sup kids? My wah has given up the ghost . I have an original cry baby from my guitard days but when i use it with the bass there is a major volume drop when the effect is on. Anyone know of a clever way to sort this problem out?[/quote]