brickers

😅😂 well, all I can say is I’m jealous of you and not Tony Levin!

Tony Levin has a couple of beautiful peach 5ers - there’s a picture on this thread: Failing that I’d go for black or white but with a sparkle or pearlescent so it’s not totally plain

Bass Direct often have John East knobs in stock: https://www.bassdirect.co.uk/product/east-knob/

@Jamieboy how long would you say these last compared to something like dr hi beams? i usually use flats so don't have a clue how long rounds last. just got some hi beams, which i love the flexibility and sound of but still not sure of the zing and the texture. dragon skins look like they might be the fix!

Thanks @itu this is intended to be a bright build and I was thinking of using 500k pots, though I didn’t realise that’s how they stack. The mix pot looks cool, though I was intending for now to keep this passive, learn some soldering skills, find a focussed setup that works for me and consider active electronics later. Good to keep in mind though. your tilt/smile eq is very cool - doesn’t John east do something similar in a precision preamp to save space? Do you find that it’s intuitive to use?

I can't sleep so I've been drawing wiring diagrams. I wonder if anyone is able to validate what I've drawn please? It's my first time working with these things, and the documentation from the pickup manufacturer doesn't seem to quite include everything you'd need to know. My aim is this: A jazz neck pickup paired with a MM bridge pickup Vol/blend/tone But before the blend, the MM pickup has a four-way switch to choose either single coil or series/parallel Pickups are Delano JMVC FE/M2 (neck) and Delano MC 4 FE/M2 (bridge). Documentation for that is here: https://www.delano.de/downloads/installation guide_2018_1.pdf. The J is a 'shielded 2-conductor' and the MM 'shielded 4-conductor'. I've omitted shielding wires from the diagram as I understand they just go to ground. Thanks in advance!

Amazing advice - thank you again. Looks like you did a great job!

That’s a really great recommendation, thanks. I guess part of the challenge of this is ensuring just the right amount of epoxy. I’d presume that I’d want to err on the side of less rather than more so that I don’t have to deal with the dried excess? I can always trim back to the well-glued parts and use a filler if there’s a touch too little. But ideally this is minimal

Thanks @JPJ my current plan, created with the help of ChatGPT and to be validated by the lovely people of this forum is to fill the cavities with wood blocks and wood glue, then epoxy glue a veneer over the entire front. (Using epoxy because it’ll glue both wood and polyurethane) I was wondering how to deal with the edges without either dulling my nice chisels, or sanding ineffectively at it and potentially sanding the existing body because it’s possibly softer than the epoxied veneer edge. I also hadn’t considered cracking though I’d hope that as this would be a thin glue layer that might be mitigated. This is pure speculation though

Refinish it. Waterloo waiting for??

Thanks. I think that thought was probably in the back of my head. I currently have some EMG pickups that allow some of this tonal variety but I don’t really care for the differences that much, but I also think I’m not a fan of these particular pickups in general, so I’m struggling to know what the issue is. I guess this is what sterling did with their HH models… should have got an HH! 😭

Thanks Michael.