bremen

6 minutes ago, JJMotown said:

There's a drill bit which is hollow in the middle, which you drill down to the depth of the screw shaft, over the screw, then pull out, and fill the hole with a dowel.

How cool is that.

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/routers-and-bits/bits/guitar-screw-rescue-kit

8 minutes ago, andytoad said:

Just noticed the jazz with the earth plate you have been commenting on, possible tidy solution to save removal?

I did think that, but you'd still have to lift the bridge to get the copper tape under. Unless you soldered the tape to the bridge plate, but it'd take a lot of heat and might not look so neat.

Not really, there's no way the drill would stay on the screw and not slip down and into the wood.

Out of interest, how would a professional extract screws that had snapped flush with the surface of the wood?

2 minutes ago, SteveXFR said:

It should be illegal to be talented and good looking. One or the other please. If you can play bass like Mike Watt then you should have the decency to look like, well Mike Watt (I didn't think this example though)

I've got a face like a slapped arse and play like a drunken gibbon. I could 'mentor*' some of your pretty virtuosos.

*dementor?

There was always plenty of footage of close-ups on Pete's guitar while John's playing his solo on My Generation!

You could likely clean the bridge with a wet and dry sanding block without removing it. Just protect the paintwork (!) with a few layers of gaffer tape. I'd be very wary of shearing the screws; they'd be a bugger to extract if they lost their heads

Looks good...usual questions, what nut width, how deep is the neck behind 1st fret, weight?

cheers

On 10/02/2025 at 20:55, Raslee said:

 3015LF

On 10/02/2025 at 20:55, Raslee said:

 Jah Earthquakes! 

Seen.

21 hours ago, miles'tone said:

Good call keeping your Jazz 👍

If you want a bit more from it, consider installing a series/parallel pull pot where the neck pickup volume pot is. A Jazz is already wired in parallel (both pickups working independently), click the volume knob up and it will put your pickups in series (both pickups working as one big one, like a Precision Bass). The  bridge volume knob won't do anything in  series so you'll have one volume, one tone - like a P bass.

A Jazz in series mode is a fabulous sound. Knarley and fat like a P but with added detail. Cheap mod.

Plenty of how-to's online...

I need to try that. Turning up the bridge pup seems to fight the (juicy) neck pup when wired 'normal'

7 minutes ago, Downunderwonder said:

The engineers managed to insist on end feet but no promotional photo ever saw a magazine with it deployed in the vertical.

So they did, hadn't noticed that!

I guess the badge rotates 🙂

Definitely paint it black. Or vinyl wrap it.

You could paint it black 😀

On 06/02/2025 at 23:07, Delberthot said:

At one point i had a 1248H and I think 1524V - a 4x12" and matching square 2x15" with diagonally mounted drivers. they were around 45kgs each. It was fun trying to lift the 1524V on top of the 1248.

 

Actually no it wasn't but the sound was collossal. Not the best sound I've ever had but possibly the mightiest rig I've had

 

This was the small rig with the 1248H & 4052 bright box

That bright box was clearly designed not to offer any brightness to anyone not standing directly in front of it

If the store has a reasonable returns policy, I'm fine with buying blind.

2 hours ago, -asdfgh2- said:

Or a Tokai. I have more than one of those. I'm intending to be buried with the fretless.

I think Tokai made my Fender badged precision neck. It's a corker.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/b00776mx

"Paul Gambaccini recalls The Stax Volt Tour of 1967 which brought to Europe soul greats Otis Redding, Sam and Dave, and Booker T and the MGs"

I'm on a Micky Xenon bilge rat!

7 hours ago, Chienmortbb said:

As I remember it, I don’t remember much very well these days, When Leo Fender asked one of his top guys to investigate dead spots on P & J basses, he determined that the 4 in a line design was the problem and that a 2x2 would reduce it and a headless bass would eliminate it. However the 4 in line design was already an icon and it was decided to leave things as they were. 
 

 

That's interesting...any idea how they came to that conclusion?

Is this behind the Music Man 3+1? I'd always thought it partly a novelty, partly a neck-dive cure.

13 hours ago, kwmlondon said:

Is that an AI page translation or are the marketing team stoned?

"I'll have what they're taking!"

I had one. Sounded superb.

On 28/01/2025 at 18:34, itu said:

20 Hz - 20 kHz is the average for a teenager who doesnt own earbuds or go to clubs. I heard about a dog who has reached 37 kHz in tests.
 

Ftfy 😉

The answers to OPs original question are 100% good points well made.

You can use the front panel tape in, but you'll need to bypass the input selector switch, as it will apply tape eq when tape input is selected. It's easy though,just wire it to the junction of C3 and R7 on the schematic I posted (I assume your mono version has the same numbering)

3 minutes ago, Chienmortbb said:

The trouble is that with multilayers boards, you cannot always see the connections. There should be a law that manufacturers MUST provide circuit diagrams and other service information. Otherwise more and more kit ends up in land fill much earlier. 

Did you manage to get a response from Sonic Fart, E Sharp?

I repeat, I'm wiling to give it a go. If the problem has been identified as fried opamps it should be possible to infer what they are, and to work out what fried them.