
bremen
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Posts posted by bremen
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I guess I need to be finishing that power supply! Sorry, been very distracted (and now I'm Tom Dick 🤢)
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There are so many pages of this and so many repetitions, so apologies if I'm not the first with
The w**ker Brothers
Edit: can I give the Nanny Filter a Hard Stare? I only changed one letter
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1 hour ago, Bill Fitzmaurice said:
The load impedance seen by the power valves is the output transformer primary. All that you accomplish by removing two valves is to reduce the current that the amp can deliver, and while that does reduce the power it's not a good idea. Guitar players who came up with that notion were only fooling themselves as to its effect, which at best might result in a measly 3dB reduction in maximum output.
The load on the secondary is reflected back to the valves, though?
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2 hours ago, ossyrocks said:
Running just a pair is fine to do. Make sure you run them on either side of the output though, ie run a pair in the middle two sockets, or the outer two sockets, and not two on the left or two on the right.
Understood. Thanks for confirmation.
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Deep joy: I've fixed it, owner is delighted and I have a schematic to steal ideas from:-)
10⁶ thanks, @Dood
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On 15/04/2025 at 10:17, Beer of the Bass said:
...the only other reason I could think of for relabelling it is if someone had been running it with one pair of power valves removed for lower power.
I have the same amp with a missing valve. I've been thinking of pulling its complement and running it into 8 ohms...sensible?
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Anyone any recent experience of playing in US or EU without a visa?
The UK subs got deported last month. I'm told that they'd regularly gigged there under the radar; I wonder if their luck just ran out or was it because of remarks they made about the Supreme Leader. We have offers but the cost of visas rules out doing it legitimately
And EU. How relaxed are they? Again, we have offers...at least visas are easier but I believe they're done country by country. No such thing as a EU visa.
Brexit has been the most depressing series of events in my life (and that of my sister, EU resident for 15 years)
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13 hours ago, Dood said:
Nice to see a full HT for the preamp valve, rather than starved plate types. I’m intrigued by this one, I don’t think I ever played through a Marshall Bass State before despite having used plenty of the guitar Valvestate gear in my six stringin’ years. I still want a DBS 7400…
I love the "free B+". I did that for my Fenderpeg-Elliott.
A dry joint or dried up cap in there would be another candidate for the cause of the BZZZZZZZ
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Thanks, el Dooderino!
I played in a band with a guitarist used a Valve State, I did enjoy its crunchy goodness.
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Gday
I'm about to have this combo delivered for me to repair. Fault is an intermittent very loud 100Hz buzz.
Most likely a dry joint on a reservoir cap. But just in case it's not that simple, anyone got a schematic?
Cheers
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8 hours ago, paul_5 said:
I came across this problem when fixing my DHA pedal - my solution was to have some solid core wire (about the same diameter as a 24 or 26 AWG multi-strand) and to strip abut 30 cm of the insulation off it. Next I heat the solder pad using a temperature controlled iron and feed the solid core through the hole in the PCB - as it travels through the hole it will pick up any errant nasties or stray wires that remain. Once the solid wire is through you should have a nice clean hole, then I used my wire cutters to chop the 'spent wire' off, leaving the rest of the reel ready for the next use. You may have to do this a couple of times, but I find that it works well in tight spaces where you can only realistically desolder the solder side of the board due to the component side being too full.
Hope this helps.
Another effective variation of that is a pcb drill bit. Heat the pad, push the drill through the hole while the solders melted, then spin the drill bereeen fingers as you remove the iron to prevent the solder sticking.
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Yup, C1-6 begin to roll off the tone at about 16MHz 😉
C17 will isolate the input stage from the +v rail and any nasties thereon, eg 100Hz ripple or any DC variation as big currents into speaker drag it down.
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14 minutes ago, Bill Fitzmaurice said:
Ampeg is one of the more honest companies, and the 58Hz f3 is accurate, as is the 40Hz f10. They're playing a bit fast and loose when they say 'The Infinite Baffle design of these sealed enclosures produces vast amounts of tightly focused bass.', but nobody's perfect. 😒
Really? Those drivers must be something special, it's hard to model anything that small (per driver) with that response in winisd. Not doubting you, I know you worked with Ampeg.
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Fwiw, here's the Ashdown variant. The output devices are plastic package equivalents of the originals. All now obsolete but equivalents available from Profusion PLC.
Additions: C1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 (for hf stability?) and C17 (lf stability? Power supply noise rejection?)
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On 06/04/2025 at 13:01, Freddi375 said:
I guess my main point and question is, if any amp is underpowering the cab, which i guess the elf running a 300w 8hm cab will be, then surely it will give more power and lows to a 300w 4ohm cab?
2dB more
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18 minutes ago, Jay2U said:
AB/CD
Hard Stare...or a commendation for lawyerly rule bending?
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How the choice of a tant indirectly brought down a company. Probably.
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Traditionally, tants were used for coupling as they could take small reverse polarity volts better than the electros of the day.
Nowadays they're used where electros cant do small enough size/low enough esr/high enough capacitance all at once. Theyre a last resort at the last place i worked. They do flame quite amusingly when they lose their tempers though.
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Even when they do spec the fr, I don't believe it
https://www.musicstore.com/en_GB/GBP/Ampeg-SVT-810-E-Box-800W-4-Ohm-8x10-Speaker/art-BAS0000443-000
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1 minute ago, Piers_Williamson said:
Surely Iran Maiden
Iron Malden. The Essex tribute band twinned with Yorkshire's Highway to Hull
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Is that the input coupler? I wonder why replacing a horrid tant with a nice shiny electro would cause instability. Genuine question.
I use film caps for input coupling and mlcc and electros elsewhere on my clones and they're plenty stable.
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They're amazingly robust, simple designs. I shorted the output to the negative rail by careless placement of a Croc clip, which arced bright white, gave off a lot of smoke and welded shut. Power off, chiseled it off and it was fine.
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If it's the Clive Button mosfet board (based on a Hitachi applications note) it looks like it hardly changed as the product line evolved, and now Ashdown are using it.
Any of these any good? There's more somewhere that show the resistor feeding the long tail pair split with a decoupler to ground, and some with gate capacitors added to the output devices
trace-elliot_GP11-AH350-AH500-MK-V-BASS-1.pdf trace-elliot-GP7-300w-7-band-1.pdf
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DIY Effects
in Effects
Posted
Tried Switchelectronics?