Ajoten

Having a muse on getting another ABG. Would prefer a 5er but my recollection of a previous 4er was that due to the relative position of bridge to lower bout, the neck effectively gets pushed out a couple of inches... When not looking at fretboard kept finding self playing 2 frets higher than normal when sat down. Did have a short scale ABG even longer ago that I don't recall having this issue. Any similar experiences? Does such a thing exist as a short scale 5 string ABG?

I'm a bass guitar playing musing on getting an EUB for a jazz band I'm in. I'm currently using an unlined fretless and I'm pretty ropey. Obviously there are 34" EUBs that probably sound more like a fretless bass than DB, but I wondered if a proper size actually made it easier to get closer to a correct note, as being a few mm out is proportionally less wrong...

Struggling to find the sort of teacher I want in the immediate vicinity. Seeing as improving (drastically!) on fretless is one of my goals, I wondered if having lessons with a DB person would work re intonation and practice "management" if they could ignore the bowing element of orchestral playing. Any thoughts or experience thereof?

My Ibanez SR5 has 45mm nut and 16.5mm spacing at bridge. Love it. Played a Fender P5 48mm / 19mm. Hard work. Played a Sandberg 5er thing 43 / 18, felt nice but now not sure if I imagined it. I expected string spacing at bridge to be deciding factor, and 1mm have little effect. I'm trying to suss how wide the fretboard is c. 12th fret to compare, although that doesn't take into consideration other factors like neck profile or whether tiny dimension differences affect playability a lot. Any accepted wisdom on this?

Tried some La Bella low tension flats. Exactly what I wanted, the flat feel but with an unnoticeable change in tension. And obviously no liztruss rod tweaks required.

I like flats - and tapes - for the smooth feel rather than specific tone tbh. Got to dismantle my P bass to tweak rod, and can't face doing it just for experimenting.

Sooo many threads knocking about with people trying to order flat brands in order of tension, but I did read a wise thought that there's a difference re tension required to tune a string vs how tough to play, as it were. So my question is what flatwound strings would you put on a brand new reasonably set up bass with basic Fender 45-105 so that NO truss rod adjustment is required? Or preferably saddle height. Going round in internet shopping circles here.

I don't play sitting much, but also simply hadn't noticed the potential danger till now. Current: Hagstrom Viking experiment:

Which is precisely why I'm asking actually 🙃 . Have a sitting gig and need to avoid sharp wrist angle... but also can't be holding arm out without resting somewhere or it'll put a static load on shoulder etc. Options to try: 1. Explorer style to rest arm higher (pics of Entwistle suggests could work) 2. 335 style semi with large body for same reason (have tried this, it deffo helps) 3. Steinberger. Which might work, or elbow might drop even lower and be worse! 4. Try and play with wtvr on left leg, classical guitary, but gig gonna be stressful and don't want new techniques to occupy headspace too. Also not as fun as buying new bass. So that's 3 potential forum threads haha. I'm starting with #3.

(Steinies of the proper bodyless type) When you play sat down (fingers not pick) where do you rest your forearm? Or do get enough support just from thumb anchoring on string/pickup?

Hmm. So you think a setup is all it'll take to stop this slapping against frets (attached vid... first half is my normal, 2nd me playing near bridge for less string movement, where it's ok ish 20220527_171236.mp4 )? Handy if so!

Not sure how a set up will help. This isn't a rattle due to neck relief. This is me hitting the strings quite hard arguably more down than up.