Al Heeley

[quote name='rommi' timestamp='1342298871' post='1733098'] Ok seen other diagrams that suggest that the black wire can go to the other pot so maybe my pickup is shot?? [/quote]black wires are earths, they can go anywhere to the back of either pot, separate or together, makes no odds. The whites are the hots, one each to the 2 vol knobs. I think you are getting the normal vol difference due to strings vibrating thru more travel towards the neck than at the bridge. Recheck the heights of the poles to the strings at bridge pup and neck pup when fretted at the last fret. fender says bass side should be a touch under 3mm and treble side should be about 2mm

[quote name='mart' timestamp='1342104858' post='1729679'] Ah, phew. After reading your FX pedal link I was thinking "oh sh*t, this guy obviously knows shedloads more than me, so I must be missing something"! [/quote]Haaa, no, i just follow diagrams!

thx, yes, makes sense.

How come? OUtput 2 will be neck pup all the time irrespective of the blend knob....?

Ive had a load of those exact sockets off DR TWEEK who runs an online shop as well as ebay shop. [url="http://www.doctortweek.co.uk/shop/article_36/Jack-Socket-1_4%22-Stereo%2C-Switched---Enclosed.html?shop_param=cid%3D50%26aid%3D36%26"]http://www.doctortweek.co.uk/shop/article_36/Jack-Socket-1_4%22-Stereo%2C-Switched---Enclosed.html?shop_param=cid%3D50%26aid%3D36%26[/url] 73p

This should do you, if I've followed your description properly. I've not bothered to draw in all the grounding wires, and if you need more details of the blend pot, have a look at the P-J Bass Blend schematic on Seymour Duncan's site under wiring diagrams.

shove the braid into one of the screw holes

Note to self: Next time kids want a garden zip wire rigged up, instrument cables not suitable.

Will bought my fuzz factor pedal, great person to deal with, excellent comms and prompt settlement - many thanks!

http://basschat.co.uk/topic/180175-battery-holder/

this sort of breakage is normally due to a tiny sharp burr of metal on the saddle. With a needle file they can be easily smoothed and rounded to prevent further breakage.

ah, thanks, that makes good sense

[quote name='bremen' timestamp='1341739895' post='1723271'] Its probably the conductive rubber between the braid and inner insulation. needs to be stripped back so it doesn't touch the inner core. 55k is high enough not to completely kill the signal but it will knacker the tone (of a passive instrument anyway) [/quote]Why would they use conductive rubber? Doesn't this increase chance of shorting?

the cable's a cheap planet waves one, about 18 months old, jack plug issues, both snipped off and replaced with neutriks, now i got the current leak. I've binned it and put the neutrik jacks on another old cable i found in my bits box. There is no current leak and all connections seem good to go. Never had any issues with planet waves cables before, though our guitarist is always swearing at them failing.

Been repairing an instrument cable by refitting 2 neutrik jacks on it. When i tested for continuity I saw about 2.2 Ohm resistance tip to tip for a 20 foot cable, but tip to sleeve (live to earth) I was getting 55K resistance, showing there was current leakage across the cable. The cable seems to work ok in my little practice amp at low volumes. Is this ok or does it mean damage and a short circuit on some strands somewhere along the cable length?

^+1 on scale length issues. On knobs and pots I've had metric and imperial ones, some pot knobs have needed packing to fit snug, ones with grub screws are more tolerant, others have needed some careful reaming with a drill bit to widen a touch. You may have to buy a new set of knobs to fit better, but they are not an expensive item.

^+1 this is where I get my Zvex clone circuits from

[quote]When I switch from my passive Precision to my active Warwick I have to take the gain on the amp right down otherwise it'll distort.[/quote] This is why a lot of bass amp heads have 2 input sockets, one for passive, another with a -10db pad for active input.

Yep, sadly twisted necks are not usually worth the time/effort/expense repairing. Chuck it away and get a replacement. I think your £60 - 70 is a reasonable amount for a basic neck, just check the neck pocket contouors to make sure it fits the body properly. Some necks can have squarer ends, some can be more rounded and may not always fit the heel snugly in the neck pocket without a little woodworking.

oo-err, not a very fair comparison when you look at price tags. £15 on ebay or £190 from temple audio :/

for shiny you need lacquer. You can get clear acrylic or polyurethane in rattle cans, PU has a bit of yellowness to it, or you can get nitrocellulose if you have spray equipment. 10 or more light coats with gentle wet'n'dry rubbing down in between, really need a clean dust-free environment, well ventilalted.