james_027

12 hours ago, barrycreed said:

I should have added that I had a Squier Bronco last year, and for a cheaper short scale, this Ibanez blows it out of the water.

I am struggling between tmb30 or tmb35 and squier bronco, You help a lot with this comment. Do you have a side by side picture of bronce and talman?

On 12/06/2020 at 20:12, Matt P said:

i'm hoping to join in soon with the Talman love, my finger is hovering over the buy button for one of the new TMB35 basses, love the colour and played a TMB30 last year and loved it, just hesitating right now as i haven't tried the 5 string in person and normally i like to try before i buy.

 

Matt

EDIT - i also have a plan involving a pair of Nordstrand pickups and a bit of routing/new scratchplate but this might have to wait until some second-hand pickups are available.

Have you got it?

On 12/06/2020 at 01:38, Maude said:

No sooner said than done. 🙂

Thanks, hoping for more 5 string feedbacks

On 06/06/2020 at 02:14, stewblack said:

Put it this way, I switched to my Squier Standard Precision after a lengthy noodling, and it sounded flubbry and jibbly in comparison. And that's a bass I usually think of as grunchy and whumpy. But the Ibby, in comparison was just solid Grunch and Squobb.

What is your EQ set or your volume and tone set?

17 hours ago, wateroftyne said:

Flats are all about mids, which don't rely on newness.

thanks for this answer, so if you want more mid, flat are really good at it?

17 hours ago, chris_b said:

Many/most people change rounds to get the twang/sizzle back, which doesn't last long so they are changed more regularly. I used to change my DR rounds every year. I'm not a fan of zingy strings, so in the last 9 months the strings life was in the zone for me. After a year I thought they started to deaden too much. I've started using NYXL nickel rounds and they are less zingy and have a nice, controlled bright tone from the off and they last a long time. The current set have been on since Christmas 2018 and they still sound OK. I just haven't done enough gigs to wear them out.

I wouldn't describe flats as sounding dull. I buy them (and I guess most others do) for their thump and thud and because their sound works so well with P basses. Their sound can last for many years, even decades, so they don't need to be changed. 

thanks for your info, when you say thump and thud is that equivalent to the punch and attack that others is mentioning?

I have read a lot, but cant find the answer to my question. Both type of strings will sound dull as it get older. But why flatwound can be not change while roundwound should be change?

Anyone who doesnt change their roundwound?

Looking forward to learn something new

I have a Cort B4 plus ASRM. I am thinking of tuning it from EADG to BEAD without changing string? Is that ok? I read somewhere else that it will damage the trustrod which I can't understand because the tuning has less tension?

On 20/04/2020 at 21:38, anzoid said:

I have a Cort Action Jr shortscale bass that has a great neck and which I have modded with Hipshot tuners and bridge. It totally rocks - the stock pickup is actually very good.

However, I have been thinking about trying the Action Jr neck in a Cort Action HH4 - https://www.cortguitars.com/product/item.php?it_id=1547009276

Does anyone have an Action HH4 from which they would be willing to take a few measurements? I think I'm looking for:

• Neck pocket width at the bridge end.
• Neck pocket width at furthest edge of the body (i.e. checking neck taper)
• Neck pocket length.
• Neck pocket depth.
• Distance from neck pocket to bridge screw holes.
• Anyting else that may be relevant...

Thanks!

 

i am interested with cort action junior,  does the tuners and bridge upgrade improve the tone?

can u post some pictures

19 hours ago, Maude said:

Yes they just pull off, I usually use a metal dessert spoon as a lever. Find a sturdy spot on the scratchplate, ie where it's not hollow underneath, and use that spot to slide the bowl end of the spoon under the knob, then gently lever the knob upwards a little bit at a time while rotating the control between each little lever to ensure it lifts evenly. The Talman ones were tight. 

They were off as I had put chrome ones on because I prefer the look but the chrome type are taller than the originals so, like yourself, I found them in the way a bit. I just hadn't got the originals back on yet. 

Thank you sir. Any plan on how you'll deal with the volume knob? How about changing its position by make a new pickguard with a new slightly adjusted hole location?

Good day fellows, I have some question about this bass.

Does anyone use flatwound on this bass? is it good?

Anyone convert it into passive?

thank you

On 08/05/2020 at 04:12, Maude said:

Hofner Ignition Club, Danelectro Longhorn, Kay KJP-1B and Ibanez Talman TMB30. 

Yes I know there's no knobs on the Talman or strings on the Longhorn. 🙂

sorry for this dumb question, but how do you remove the knob on talman?  is it just by pulling it?

did you intentionally remove the knobs? while the tmb30 is really a nice bass, i find the position of the 2 volume knobs irritating ...

6 hours ago, Osiris said:

This is mine, (apologies for the crap camera phone pic), with replacement chrome knobs... Plus a replacement £10 eBay high mass bridge and a set of Entwistle neodymium PJ pickups. The end result, one of the most comfortable, biggest sounding basses I've ever played in more than 35 years of playing bass. 

thanks for sharing this picture, does anybody bother to relocate the position of these knobs by changing a pickguard with new knob holes?

when u say u dont like the volume knob, are you referring to the layout/positioning or the knob itself?

On 09/05/2020 at 16:58, nilebodgers said:

As a keen fixer/modifier I have stuck to Rosewood boards on my own basses to avoid dealing with the coated finish.

I clean with Naptha (lighter fluid) and use "Howard Feed&Wax" which is a beeswax/orange oil to condition afterward.

I'd just use Naptha on Maple to clean then polish with a dry cloth (I'd try a non-silcone polish to see if that helped make it slipperier).

are most of the maple fretboard coated? like 90% of the time?

On 09/05/2020 at 16:54, BigRedX said:

Depends on the finish. Generally rosewood boards are natural and maple boards are lacquered, however I have owned basses with unfinished maple boards and layered rosewood ones (although I wouldn’t recommend anything with an unfinished maple board based on my experience).

In the short term lacquered boards are the easiest to look after. Clean them well with a DAMP cloth each time you restring. Unfinished rosewood boards require lemon oil and a little more elbow grease to remove the finger crud unless you are replacing your strings more often than once a month.

In the long term the finish will begin to wear off the lacquered boards, and the only way to return them to their ordinal state will be to get them refinished, which may mean refinishing the whole neck and will definitely involve laborious and time consuming removing the finish from the frets.

HTH

Do you mean for easier maintenance rosewood fretboard is what you recommend?

Which fretboard materials is easier to maintain? how do u maintain each of the freatboard materials

thanks

@Teebs wow thanks for those pics it sure looks tasty 😁

@dave_bass5 what you said right there at the last sentence was a enlightenment to me, I think I should not worry about the multi-piece neck, body-stringing, etc. thanks for your words of wisdom

@chris_b thanks. For learning purpose, Does changing the bridge will make the screw holes loose its thread?

Thanks to all who shared their opinions. My one last question is aren't the BB body shape a bit weird?  I am new, so tone doesn't matter much to me, as long as it sound like a bass. I am more into aesthetics and durability

On 08/12/2019 at 06:51, dave_bass5 said:

Ive got a Sire V7 5, first Gen. Cant comment on the V3. Very nice bass, plays really well and although i dont use the preamp much, its a good one. I believe most of the necks are the same throughout the first Gen, and its a very playable neck. One of the nicest ive owned, although a bit chunky. The newer Gen 2 necks are really, really nice though.

I also have a 425. Lovely bass. Feels basic but comfortable. It's not the same as a 435 (which I'm also after), so cant really comment on that either, but given the choice, I'd go for the basic passive option. 

 

Hope you'll get your 435 soon 😁

On 07/12/2019 at 19:50, chris_b said:

Necks: Multi piece and carbon are for reinforcement: Both will reduce dead spots and aid stability. Neither is better than the other.

4 or 6 bolts: If the bass is well made the number of bolts doesn't matter. I've seen Ritter basses use upto 17 bolts and they aren't more stable than my 4 bolt Sadowsky.

Aesthetic: Whatever turns you on. I'm a "Fender" shape fan.

Electronics: Pre-amps are about tone. I change the battery on my active bass once a year.

Acceptability: I'm not a pro player so I don't care what other people think.

Body: I've not found through stringing makes a difference to the tone that I can hear.

Since I am new, the body through stringing looks to last longer since it doesnt pull the bridge, so I am on the aspect of durability rather than tone.

On 07/12/2019 at 19:50, chris_b said:

 

What I look for in a new bass is 18-19 mm at bridge, weight that is under 9lbs and it has to sound better than my current bass. If it doesn't have those 3 things I'm not interested. Everything else is negotiable.

You've got to be comfortable with your choice, but, for me, none of your points would trump tone. I'd get the bass that sounds the best. The rest comes a distant second.

Ignore the price, currently there's a sale for bb435 that makes both guitar at the same price. Let me highlight what I like/dislike with both guitars

• multi-piece neck vs carbon reinforcement rod, the multi-piece might have advantage but i think the carbon reinforcement rod is a good enough feature rather than nothing, so its a tie
• 6 bolt vs 4 bolt neck joint, bb435 wins this area
• body aesthetic, i prefer clean and simple. bb435 has a cleaner look, while sire v3 has a cluttered look (so much controls) for my taste, but bb435 has a weird round shape, sire has standard body shape which I like it more, so I am not sure which way to go
• electronics, i am noob, so i prefer the simple one, and I hate batteries
• acceptability ... while both bass are good, i think sire v3 is more popular while this doesn't necessarily mean better somehow it affects my decision
• its nice that both has body thru string feature

Thank for your feedback

2 hours ago, Baceface said:

Hi @james_027

Like many people here, my older Yamaha BB seems fine with a one piece neck, 4 bolt neck join and top loading bbot bridge!

I'd not really be concerned about the structural side of things (as you say, that's what you get on most of the  multi-thousand dollar Fender custom shop basses) but it's more a question of whether the laminated neck, and through body stringing give a "better" sound to your ears.

thanks for those inputs, I guess there's not much need to worry about the structural side.

2 hours ago, Baceface said:

The biggest difference (for me) would be the pickups. The 2 series have ceramic magnets while the 4 have alnico5 magnets. Received wisdom would imply that the 4 series pickups are a bit more subtle and vintage voiced. As always, it's a bit more complicated than that. One player's "vintage mojo" is another players "weak and characterless", one players "brash and unsubtle" is another's "punchy and agressive" etc.

Bear in mind that, unlike previous BBs, these new ones feature standard-sized pickups so upgrades will be possible further down the line if you feel there's something missing. Needless to say that Yamaha make great sounding pickups anyway!

Does the 200 series pickups considered good?

2 hours ago, Baceface said:

I guess this isn't helping. It's 5am and I can't sleep so I thought I'd put some thoughts out there. I don't think you can go wrong with either choice and a great deal on either is what might sway it for me. I particularly like the yellow natural 2 series look but the teal 4 series is pretty saucy too. 

I daresay some of the Big Beasts of the BB thread will be along with far more informed guidance soon enough. 

Many thanks

Please help me decide between yamaha bb235 and yamaha bb435, if money is not issue i'll get the bb435 easy decision. I am struggling with the following points.

Major Struggle

1. Multi piece neck, by common sense i think this is so much better than the one piece, but other brand like fender as far as I know doesn't have this feature in their hi-end models, so am I right to conclude that one piece will do its job, and this multi piece neck are kinda of marketing stuff?

2. Body thru stringing, I believe this remove a lot of pulling stress from the bridge. I always had a fear  of screws holding down the bridge could eventually get loose. Does unscrewing and re-screwing of the bridge will result to a loose thread for the screws?

Minor struggle

1. nuts - can be easily upgrade no big deal

2. 4 vs 6 nect joint bolts

3. I like the colors  more on the 200 series than the 400 series

Thanks