itu

The backside should tell you about the supply. From the link I checked: Mains 100 - 240 VAC.

https://www.tcelectronic.com/product.html?modelCode=P0CIU

If your amp tells the same, you do not need any converter, just a suitable cable.

VDR = voltage dependent resistor. Used for slow start of the electrical units. It cuts the current peak when the cold unit is started.

The white part could be a resistor or rather, a capacitor. You need to check the numbers and codes.

Because the unit has failed, it is reasonable to study the surroundings very well and thoroughly. Power failure may be just a part or two, but a DC connected system may die down to the power and preamp. Please consult some tce accredited repair company. Just in case.

You can pair nearly any preamp with your pickups. With East you can not go wrong. I would still fiddle with the original preamp. Be adventurous.

As others have already told this, bright comes from a set of SS RW. Nickel gives more middle and flats, well, they sound dead.

You want and you can do whatever you like from Legos!

That probably is not the most lightweight instrument around.

This is probably not the 519 model, is it? Spacing at the bridge is then 17 mm? One fine bass, by the way.

2 hours ago, mybass said:

I've looked online at taking out the tone pot before committing and the general comment is that the pickups will be 'allowed' to output more top and bottom end...

Pots can affect high frequencies, but not so much of the middle and the lows. If you remove all pots, the pickup can push out slightly more. If you use two pickups in one "passive" circuitry, they affect each other. You can separate them using battery powered buffers (Noll Mixpot or similar).

One part of the cost is that although the replacement is cheap (soldering + the pot itself), the dismantling and putting everything back takes quite a lot of time.

If you have time and can keep everything in order, the replacement is something you might do yourself. I still point out that please be careful if you are not that familiar with electronics. Every cable has to be inside the box, do not tighten any cable between case parts. Bending PCBA or braking any component can lead to an unrepairable unit.

MN is the blend type. Center detent, cut tracks... made by Bourns, available in 250 k and 500 k versions.

A can be audio/logarithmic, but also linear. There are no standardized markings on pots. You just need to measure the pot and then hunt for a replacement.

https://eepower.com/resistor-guide/resistor-types/potentiometer/#

You can keep the original preamp. A bass has a signal route like this:

pickups - blend (or vol) - vol - tone - output

Tone may be pot and a capacitor, or a battery powered preamp. Most of the "active" basses have only battery powered tone tweaking circuitry. Some are more complex. All in all, you can usually mix and match nearly every component. There are exceptions, but on a basic instrument most trials and changes are OK. Low impedance ("active") pickups may need some changes like pots or specialized tone circuitry, sometime they can replace old pickups without any special modifications.

Ask some of your friend who can do decent soldering. Options are numerous.

I should have started with 5-string fretted and fretless as well as a double bass right away in my teens. 19 mm string spacing (fits my fingers), less slap, more analyzing, less flashy stuff. Some learning with effects (fuzz, comp, envelope, x-over).

I would have had to learn meat and potatoes so well that everybody would have wanted me to play exactly that.

Amps, a GK micro combo for double bass and a Glockenklang Soul and a lightweight 2 x 12" for electrics.

Listening to Marc Johnson, NHØP, Edgar Meyer, Tom Kennedy, Pekka Pohjola, and Abraham Laboriel for flashy stuff and numerous no named heros for the functional and important meat and potatoes.

Learning from BASSCHAT decades ago! This is so good place, Thank You All! I still try to grab ideas from you, although I learn slowly. It is never too late.

Well, from the music history lessons I do remember very well when our teacher played Florence Foster Jenkins. Poor Cosme McMoon.

And I was expecting to see a fretted

Michael

V.

Pedulla

4-string.

Could you please share some light why the tone has to be before the active circuitry?

Here is a short electronics description of most basses:

pickup(s) - blend (or another vol) - vol - tone - output

The blend/vol is not needed in a one pickup bass. Tone can be "active" or "passive". Some instruments have even "active" mixing (blend, vol), but it is relatively rare solution.

1 hour ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Possibly because these things are subjective?

Most of our senses are measured, and approximated from very big amounts of data through standardized tests. True, we do sense things in slightly different ways depending on an individual. As an example we bassists can hear certain details from the low end that others think is insignificant. 

In general people's senses act in a tested way. On average we should hear from 20 Hz to 20 kHz, although some can hear down to 16 Hz or up to 37 kHz, and others far less. Statistically 20 - 20k is still valid response for a young and healthy ear. This is not only subjective, but a tested fact.

I will not go to learning and other finesses, one part of our hearing is psychoacoustics. It also covers excessive amount of research and background data which is not feasible to represent here. Everything is not simply subjective, although the larger picture sure can contain some subjective parts. This will be the situation as long as we are not able to represent our experiences with agreed and common terms thoroughly. "Suitable" could still be a better term than "the best", even with some very subjective stuff. After all, most of our wants may include lots of foggy compromises:

"What's the best cheap bass?"

What?

Say, how much is your cheap and I may be able to find something for you.

3 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

What matters is understanding that cable choice makes a difference.

Didn't I say: "Understanding the facts..."? 

Personal preferences sure play a big part of our sounds. Tweaking is for us players: I love effects, I need my lo-fi speaker, and how about my playing style?

(I HATE most of the verbal comments on sound like "vintage" which does not mean anything. Is there a single vintage sound from the bass, the cable, the amp, or some system? We lack many tests and qualifications that could help us in comparing sounds and detailing finesses.)

We still do have different stuff available that can be measured at least to some extent. Like cables. And we should understand the results. "The best" here is probably somewhat bad qualification just like the previous "vintage", so I will suggest to use the word "suitable".

2 hours ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Everything in the signal chain from pickup  to loudspeaker has an impact that colours the sound to a greater or lesser extent, although the effect of some may be imperceptible.

Nothing is  best, just different. That doesn't stop anyone having a preference.

In audio there are lots of tests. Many test settings are after the best. Sure they do measure difference between competitors.

PA systems (covering bass systems, too) are often after something else than superior quality and flat response audio. One of these is loudness. There are still same tests available for the components of PA systems. 

Quality cable does not color sound. But if you want to get a deteriorated sound, no one is on your way. Understanding the facts which affect colouring then help a lot.

IE Xerograph (also the deluxe model)

OnkartGromt Funky Fellow

Subdecay Proteus

It was discussed years ago that a vintage fender was put to three parts: neck, body, and electronics. Then they were married with some newer parts: voila, three vintage fenders!

People are more aware of this. A numbers matching instrument is more valuable than a bitsa nowadays. (If someone is interested in fenders is another story.)

Light weight parts, top loading bridges, light SS RW strings, Status necks...

bartolini & Delano pickups, yes.

Who will do the countdown?

Nearly 60 minutes has passed already.

One special parametric, there are not many with this many bands. One to four bands is far more common, this has to be extremely powerful.

On 09/07/2021 at 00:45, Lfalex v1.1 said:

Ah, c'mon! The hifi boys have machines to burn in their cables...

Talking about cable cooker? Yes, even their pages are lots of fun!

There was a guy writing to a newspaper: "...after listening to this band, NHØP is probably an acronym of two persons."

8 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

From a neck strength point of view or sound, @SteveXFR ?

And I was thinking about the feel! How simple from me.

6 hours ago, Downunderwonder said:

A lot of people use that term when they are actually parallel effected. There is no OR in biamp and crossover if you are doing it right.

True, yes! I have played with X-overs in my effect boards for a few years (IE, KMA). Parallel is (too) common, and I did go away from that after trying to manage with comb filtering and yes, phase issues. X-overs have opened a new way of using effects.