whizzzy

Another faultless transaction from Mike. The amp is just what I was after. Sent extremely well packaged and arrived on schedule. 

Thanks again Mike. A real asset to the BC community.

Its unlikely to improve with use. I've had a number of headless Spirits and the tuners have all been stiff. The advice in the previous post is the way forward. If you unscrew the tuner you will probably already find a black washer but I think this is too thin to be of any help. Use a sparing amount of silicone grease on the washer and the threaded section as well.

Pretty much as mentioned above however if you have access to a large vice then you may have some success sandwiching the grill between two pieces of hard wood and tightening it all up in the vice. This works reasonably well if the dents are around the edge of the grill.

A footnote however is that whatever you do will only every be partially successful though. When a metal grill gets dented or dinged then it effectively stretches the metal. When you try to straighten it back out you are effectively trying shrink or compress the area that has been stretched and this is rarely 100% effective.

Just bought a piece of kit off Den. Smooth and faultless transaction in every respect. A credit to the BC community. 

Thanks again Den

Mick helped me out with a cover for a Trace amp, which are now very hard to come by. Smooth and faultless transaction in every respect. A credit to the BC community. 

Thanks again Mick.

Not exactly deal related but Liam helped me out by including a requirement to order a specific electronic component when placing an order to a supplier himself . This speaks volumes for the extremely kind folk within the BC community when someone is willing to help out, who to them is a effectively a complete stranger. 

Thank you again Liam. Your kindness is sincerely appreciated.

Slider caps you can adapt the covers used for miniature toggle switches - https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switch-caps/8431985/

They need to be trimmed down in height but they can usually push onto the slider shaft. 

Still haven't found an easy source for the square push switch buttons though!

In the past I've managed to adapt the covers used for miniature toggle switches - https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switch-caps/8431985/

They need to be trimmed down in height but they can usually be pushed onto the slider shaft. a tiny spot of glue such as evo stick may help to keep then in position as well.

Thanks Bartelby. I'll pm you.

Yes, if LED strips had have been around 22 years ago then that would certainly have been the way to go. But actually I can see the logic from TE in using the hot cathode bulb as I guess the life of conventional lamps would have been somewhat shortened with all the vibration coming up through the cabinet. So some thought has gone into it.

Thanks for the suggestion in contacting Mark Gooday. I'll see I can find him on FB. 

I agree £20 isn't a deal-breaker but if I could have sourced one here in the UK I could probably get it quicker and with reduced postal costs.

Thanks for the link but the lamp is still coming from the US which makes it stupidly expensive for such a small item.

I've recently acquired a Trace Elliot head which has the GP12 SMX preamp and would like to bring it back to it's former glory. One thing that needs attention is a blown lamp on the front panel. Having carried out some research I find that it is a miniature hot cathode florescent UV lamp - data sheet here. I would like to replace it with an original device rather than changing it to an LED but can't find anyone in the UK who sells such a bulb. The cost to bring one over from the USA is going to be prohibitive.

Does anyone know where I can source one of these within Brexit land? New or second hand, I'm not fussed.  

I've just bought a Trace head from Dan who I found to be a top bloke.

Good communications and he certainly went the extra mile to ensure that it arrived in time. Packaging was bomb-proof as well putting most of the mail order companies to shame!

I'd definitely recommend him whether you're buying, selling or trading!

One very happy bunny.

Thanks Dan.

Thanks for that link. The wires are colour coded with thin insulation. This has been removed then I scraped the bare wires with a scalpel in order to remove any oxidisation or coating but the wires still refused to tin. Interesting about using oil to stop oxidisation during the soldering. I'll have a go with this later and report back.

Cheers.

Thanks for that. I did see it before but it as doesn't provide strain relief for the cable so wouldn't last 5 minutes. 

Still lookin'...............

Does anyone know where I can get a 3.5mm jack plug with screw on connections please?

I have a pair of Sennheiser headphones which I use for practicing and the jack had become damaged and has an intermittent connection. I purchased a standard 3.5mm jack but then only to find that the wiring on the headphones is aluminium and won't solder! The only way I can see around this would be to get a screw terminal jack plug but the only one I can find here is sold by Canford Audio and they have a £35 minimum order charge.

Anyone have any ideas how else I can overcome the problem?

Ta!

I have just received some machine heads purchased from Nigel.
They were sent promptly, really well packed and in perfect condition.
Prompt and courteous comms and an incredibly smooth transaction. A great guy to deal with 😊 and an asset to the BC community.

Thanks again Nigel.

A Hammond B3 and Leslie cabinet is a marriage made in heaven!

We were very lucky to see Booker T Jones at the Moseley Jazz Fest in 2017. Stood in the front row, he had stereo Leslie cabinets on stage. It just blew me away. The hairs on my neck stick up even thinking about it now.😊

That new schematic makes a lot more sense in relation to C102 which is a non-polarised capacitor, so I stand corrected. 

Readily available on Ebay so should pose too much of a problem to replace.

Good luck with the fix.

It's difficult to see from the photo but I doubt that the replacement cap needs to be a non polarised electrolytic. If you can see a polarity marking (+) or (-)adjacent to either leg this would confirm that it is just a standard electrolytic type. If there are no polarity markings then it could well be a non-polarised version, however I think that NP just possibly refers to the manufacturer.

The schematic arrangement looks about right, ie C103 / C103 being set at around 100pf. 100P means 100 pico farad where as the cap you have taken out is 1 uF or micro farad. C102 / C103 along with R104 and VR101 will affect the negative feedback loop on the ic. They will set the gain and frequency response of the respective amplifier sections. The values indicated in the schematic look typical to me.

I frequently come across discrepancies between schematic diagrams and silk screening on pc boards so I wouldn't let that worry you. You've clearly identified that the electrolytic cap has an intermittent problem so just replace it with like for like and hopefully that should resolve things.

Bought a book off Daryl.

Easy to deal with, a real credit to BC.

Enjoying the new read!

Thanks Daryl.

Just bought a pedal of Tony. Nice smooth transaction, just like you want it to be and the item was received promptly and well packaged. An asset to the BC community and yet one more good reason why BC is the best place to trade.

Thanks again Tony.

pm sent

Sold an amp to Chris. Ultra smooth transaction, just like you want it to be. Will have absolutely no problems in trading with him in the future. A credit to the BC community.

Thanks Chris.