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Bigguy2017

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Posts posted by Bigguy2017

  1. ui12 does have a wired network socket so it should be possible ...

     

    You need a wired network adapter for your tablet (iPad?) and a wee network switch

     

    If the tablet is Thunderbolt then something like this (tablet specs vary, so check)...

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lighting-Ethernet-Charging-Compatible-10-iOS14/dp/B09BKSN9MZ/ref=sr_1_3?adgrpid=1183075410342010&hvadid=73942413152603&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=41944&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-73942349747781%3Aloc-188&hydadcr=4426_1824214&keywords=ipad+to+ethernet+adapter&qid=1685453060&sr=8-3

     

    and a switch

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-SG105S-Ethernet-Lifetime-Warranty/dp/B07HP5TN4S/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1AZI6QDETF8Q0&keywords=tp+link+switch&qid=1685453502&sprefix=tp+link+switch%2Caps%2C82&sr=8-3

     

    plug up with two network cables and put both devices on the same subnet  192.168.xxx.yyy with subnet mask: 255.255.255.0    (see page  "10.1.3: LAN" in manual)

     

    ... As ui12 network port auto negotiates, you may not need a switch (IF tablet adapter plays nice), just one cable...

     

     

    • Thanks 1
  2. That barrel-vaulted ceiling is focussing audio down to head height. Great for sermons, not so good for anything else.

    I'd fly some thick absorbers around the height of the cross rails and put some 50mm panels, stood off the wall by 50mm, on the side walls - particularly at the speaker locations.

     

    • Like 1
  3. We shouldn't really be using 1/4" jacks for amps over 100W.

    Neutrik jacks are only rated for 50V or less and the sockets are rated at 3A.

     

    100W into 8R      = 3.5A  28V
    100W into 16R     = 2.5A  40V

    150W into 8R     = 4.3A 35V
    150W into 16R     = 3A   49V

    200W into 8R     = 5A   40V
    200W into 16R     = 3.5A 56V

     

    So it's easy to exceed volts or current ratings. They may/will still work but they're not really rated for it.

     

    Speakons are, in every way, superior.

    30A per contact  240V max

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  4. First it's the room - usually a proper vocal booth which is pretty dead, and keeps out unwanted sound. 

    This can be approximated with hanging duvets making a booth into a corner, but anything with early reflections will sound like your bathroom...

     

    Next is mic choice and position.

    I've used MKH416, Neumann U87, EV RE20, Rode NT1, SM7, Coles ribbons and others.

    Some voices need a different mic - Mariella Frostrup had a very gravelly voice... never had to de-ess with the right mic choice.

    Mic position was usually 45 degrees front/above around arm's length. Closer for cosey narration.

     

    Some minor EQ - mostly high pass, and mild compression for most stuff, heavy for commercial radio.

     

    A felt top lectern for scripts and talkback or cue lights

     

    A voice artist also helped lots - Emma Freud and Lesley Judd were both 'one take wonders' - company COs and similar with no mic experience could be a pain.

     

  5. 14 hours ago, Nail Soup said:

    I don't have a dedicated chair for practice, but I did adapt my home-office chair for music by removing the arm-rest things.

    Yes, a good office type chair, without arms, is great for both practice and PC/DAW work.

    I splashed out on an Orangebox Eva chair 'cos Covid / WFH and it's perfect .

     

    • Like 2
  6. Hmmmm.... If none of the wiring has come adrift it sounds like a pickup problem.

     

    Do you have a Multimeter or a soldering iron?

     

    With a multimeter measure the resistance across the two outer volume pot lugs - should be around 8K Ohms ish... 

    If it measures around 250K Ohms then the pickup is open circuit.

     

    Desolder the pickup lead from the vol pot outer lug and measure the pickup directly - again should be around 8-10K Ohms

     

    If no multimeter, desolder both pickup leads at the vol pot and croc lead them to your guitar cable/amp input - if no signal then pickup is open circuit.

     

    If you are feeling brave unscrew the pickup (both halves) and pop the covers off.

    Have a good look at where the cables solder onto the very fine pickup windings - sometimes these break.

     

     

  7. Hmmm... weird one...

    You've tried all the obvious so it must be something else.

     

    Things to try;

    You could have a weak pickup magnet on the E string (you've changed the pickup so probably not this) - tap all the pole pieces with a (steel) allen key - do they all make a similar bang and are they all similarly 'sticky'?

     

    Nut. Have a good look at the nut slot for the E string - is the slot cut right and is there a tiny clearance (try a sheet of paper) over the first fret when string is fretted at fret 3? Also check the E bridge saddle.

     

    Room. Are all your listening test being done in the position in the same room? Room dimension s can really effect the low end - my living room has a big peak around A which sounds much louder than it really is.

     

    Try with another cable, direct to the amp - there can be odd effects if the cable's conductive plastic layer is not stripped back correctly. (clutching at straws here).

     

    What bass, what pickup, what strings? It is possible to wire a PBass or stacked jazz pickup out of phase which makes for a weird response.

    • Like 2
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