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Bigguy2017

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Posts posted by Bigguy2017

    Vintage Bridge vs Hi Mass Bridge

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    Hi-mass bridges, in my experience, don't change tone much but do effect note attack/delay/sustain.

     

    My Ric's pot metal bridge was tail lifting, preventing a playable low action.

    Replaced with the Hipshot Ric bridge - went with the heavier chromed brass version to help with neck dive. Being unhappy with the base flatness I flatted it with wet 'n' dry.

    The Ric is now completely different - notes sustain for ever, hardly decay at all - it sounds like a bass synth.

    Still sounds like a Ric, but more so - certainly different, but for my usage, not better - would be great for doom metal.

    Playing wise, it's eliminated neck dive and allows a much lower action.

     

    Not a fan of Hi-mass bridges - the one I do like is the Fender 007 000 5124 American Standard Bass Bridge (High Mass Vintage ?)- the one like a chunkier BBOT.

     

    My totally favourite MIJ Jazz has a bog standard BBOT bridge and I love it.

     

     

    I started by typing "Hi-mass brides" - something else entirely

    bridge Fender 007 000 5124 American Standard Bass Bridge 2007 – Present.jpg

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1

    Options for 97 MIJ Fender Jazz Bass Electrics

    in Bass Guitars

    Posted

    9 hours ago, rwillett said:

    I have a 97 Made in Japan Fender Jazz (Lake Placid Blue) and I love the neck on it. To be honest that’s the reason I brought it. As an ex rugby player, the weight is pretty immaterial and as I have the arms (and possibly the body) of an orangutan, the neck length is fine. It’s a great guitar BUT the knobs and controls seem to do very little apart from turning the volume down on each of them. I get far more different tone from where I play the strings.

     

    I brought it second hand and I know the bridge isn’t a genuine Fender and had assumed that the electrics were a bit dodgy. So I took the plate off today and had a look, somewhat surprisingly, I think that these are the original pots and capacitors. Can someone confirm this please based on the pictures?

     

    Assuming these controls are original, I’m not keen to throw these away but I have no issues with replacing them with something new to give me some more variety of tones and keeping the originals for if I ever sell. I have read (and re-read and re-re-read) to try and work out what my options are and am more confused than ever. I don’t think I need active, I want to get a variety of tones, something with some bass grunt, but also a bit more treble and bite. I want my cake and to eat it 😊

     

    I’m more than happy to spend £100+ on replacing the stuff, for a top class solution, I can spend more, I can solder so I’m not looking for the easiest plug and play solution, but if plug and play is a good option, then that’s great. I believe that the control plate on the MIJ Fender Jazz’s might need to be replaced along with the knobs and that’s fine. Should I also be looking at replacing the pickups? Or are they seen as pretty good. My problem is that I know nobody who even plays guitar within a 45 min drive (I live in rural North Yorkshire), so can’t easily compare and contrast with another bass.

     

    Any help or simple guidance welcomed.

     

    Many thanks

     

    Rob

    IMG_1309.jpg

    IMG_1310.jpg

    IMG_1311.jpg

     

     

    Yes, that's all original Fender Japan wiring.

    Beware - not all Speakon connectors are the same

    in Repairs and Technical

    Posted

    40 minutes ago, tauzero said:

     

    NL2s are 2 pole, NL4s are 4 pole. FC has a latch lock (locking ring for the NL2FC). The NL4FX has been discontinued, and so has the NL4FC, so those plugs will become collectors' items. Looks like the ones to get now are the NLT4FXX or NL4FXX.

    The Neutrik website and catalogue are no help - they still have the discontinued models - very confusing.

    I've got a few NL4FX on hand, and they're still in stock with CPC / RS but if I need more it might have to be the newer ones

     

    NL4FXX
    37 A 250 V AC

     

    NLT4FXX
    30 A 250 V AC

     

    NLT4FXX-BAG
    30 A 250 V AC
     

    Stands that don’t break!

    in Accessories and Misc

    Posted

    On 27/07/2023 at 09:38, Bassman68 said:

    The only thing that bothers me about those A frame stands is that I predominantly play basses with off-set bodies, like Jazz basses & they don’t sit right? 
    I do have a couple of these stands but they have the addition of a neck support, with arms that swing up & latch together…

    Unfortunately no-one seems to make these anymore?

    You can wiggle a bit of pipe insulation over the left-hand arm bit - this helps offset basses sit level

    • Like 3

    Room and bass specific humming/interference. Thoughts?

    in Repairs and Technical

    Posted

    9 minutes ago, solo4652 said:

    Do you mean one of these?  https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-ms6860d-16a-socket-tester-230v-ac/91596?kpid=91596&cm_mmc=Google-_-Datafeed-_-Tools?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=Google-_-TOKEN1-_-TOKEN2&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrOrqx-2LgAMVWJODBx2qNw5oEAQYASABEgJdIvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds    

     

    Wouldn't that just tell me whether a particular plug socket was faulty? I've tried 3 different plug sockets at rehearsal room 1 - same result each time of awful buzzing/interference. Also, I only get the problem with that particular bass, and not with either of my other 2 basses. 

    They could all be on the same ring main

    Rickenbacker 4003 electrical issue....

    in Repairs and Technical

    Posted

    Could be many things....

     

    The way to approach it is to prep a cable with 1/4" jack (amp) to croc clips.

     

    Start with the pickups- unsolder at the pots and connect to the amp with the croc clips - how do they both sound?

     

    Next, wire pickup to a volume pot (disconnect tone pots) - does it still sound good - does the volume pot work as expected?

     

    Next connect the tone pots (one at a time) -  do these work like tone pots?

     

    Next, the switch.... croc leads on the 'output' - do all three positions work as expected?

     

    If all is good then so far you have two working pickups, two working vol pots, two working tone pots and a working switch OR you will have found some problems to fix...

     

    Finally reconnect the output jacks - these are a flippin' nightmare on Rics with the whole Ric-O- Sound  stereo / mono switching.

     

     

    It's often easier to fully rewire than try fixing previous dodgy fixes.

     

    I'm looking for a good Ric 4003 wiring diagram - best I could find is this... what you really want is a diagram with the parts and wiring shown as-is.

     

     

    output jacks stereo mono 3643.gif

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