Bigguy2017
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Posts posted by Bigguy2017
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11 hours ago, Bigbri5050 said:
I have a great Fender Rumble 100 amp. However, the d.i. signal vanishes when you turn down the amplifier volume. I need the signal to remain for the mixing desk even when I turn my amp down. In this case the p.a. monitors and IEM's give me the sound I need. Do you know of any amps that will do this? I've tried asking the manufacturers but not sure the front-line staff will understand the issue.
Yes, this is an annoying 'feature' - at practice volume in the house, the DI output is very low level - the Master Vol should be at the input of the Power Amp not before the EQs
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If you have a bass preamp or amp with a line level out you only need a headphone amp with two inputs
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Here's inside one I had open a few years back...
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I have done a few bridge swaps and never noticed a big change in tone as such...
There is a change in the envelope of notes with usually an increase in sustain.
The really big change was on my Rickenbacker 4003 - this developed the common 'tail lift' , plus the equally common 'folding' of the body at the neck pickup route, which made it unplayable due to a very high action (even with saddles at max low and extra deep string grooves).
I swapped it for the Hipshot replacement bridge (brass version to help with neck dive). This is a straight swap using the same screw holes. I flattened the uneven base with emery on a glass plate beforehand and it was a ten minute swap.
The lower Hipshot allowed me to drop the action a lot.
The difference was quite noticeable - ridiculous sustain - notes ceased to have a 'plucked' envelope and became almost constant like a bass pedal.
Result, a massive improvement in playability, not really better 'tone' but certainly a different sound... (a chunk of foam under the strings helped return sustain to something useful).
With 'classic' Jazz and P basses I think the BBOT gives a more traditional look and sound - with modern basses I like the Fender 007-000-5124 American Standard 2007 HMV Bass Bridge for ergonomics and function.
I never got on with the huge Badass style bridges - mostly as they look crap. 😉 YMMV.
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Loose earth somewhere or dead smoothing cap?
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'kin 'ell, that's a beaut
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So, the speaker output jack works into an external cab? Therefore signal must be present at the jack socket.
Take a close look at the speaker out jack socket - if it's the switching type make sure the contacts are closing without a jack in place - push down on the contacts.
Pull off the red + blk speaker spade connectors at the PCB end (LS1 + LS2) - with a DVM check for continuity to the speaker.
If no DVM then put a AA battery across these terminals - speaker should click...
I can't find a schematic for this combo - Ashdown will supply one I'm assume...
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Short scale ?
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2015 surely?
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Remove the valve and check the voltages on the valve socket - carefully... You're looking for +15 VDC on 6+8 (heaters) and +40 to +150 VDC (HT) on pin 4.
You have tried another (known good?) valve...
If voltages are there, clean and tighten the valve socket contacts (obvs. with power off and drained!) and have a good look for a cracked PCB trace around the valve socket.
Measure the values of R2, R12, R13 and C6 - anything open circuit?
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The knob is a collet knob. To remove the knob you have to spin the outer brass ring anticlockwise - use a pair of needle nose pliers in the two slots to get it loose.
Once the collet is loose the knob will pull off.
Then it's a normal pot with a nut + washer - use a spanner...
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Nice... matching + contrasting.
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Sizes I use are;
Fender saddle height screws (Mex + MIJ)
-------------------------------------------M3 grub screws - cone (or cup / dome) point
M3 x 10mm
M3 x 12mm
M3 x 16mm(1.5mm allen key)
Fender USA
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1/16" bass (6-32)
0.050" guitar (4-40)
www.modelfixings.com (or similar supplier)
M3 x 12mm MF-GS37S
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Like franzbassist said, best is to buy a selection of screws in Long, Med, Short.
Do the bass setup and when you're happy, replace the screws with ones of best length - keep the 'wrong uns' for later use.
This plan works best when you have many basses using the same type of screws...
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That looks all original spec for Japan.
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Hmmm... that looks like the sheared off end of the truss rod
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3 hours ago, Lifer said:
2.6 diameter is too big. I have a P Pickup that I’ve swapped the screws on and they don’t fit this pickup.
Most of the advertised 'P90 screws' are Jazz Bass / P Bass PuP screws at 2.6 or 2.8mm and don't fit many P90s - even though they are advertised as 'P90 screws'.
Even the Hosco ones are 2.6mm x 40mm.
2.5mm x 38mm is the correct size ( I think) - I got some nickel ones from Armstrong Music
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The perfect Stingray. 😉
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You can usually pry / pop out the hard foam liners with a 4" paint scraper or similar to access the ABS shell.
I've had good results with glass fibre tape and epoxy - the trick is getting the broke bits back to where they belong and level.
Any holes or missing pieces can be filled with epoxy or black Milliput - Plastikote satin black spray paint covers things nicely.
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Yup, that 'aint no Fender.
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On 14/10/2024 at 11:20, asingardenof said:
D'Addario are having a sale with 20% off bass strings for the next two weeks: https://www.daddario.com/bass-strings-promotion/
Good spot - just ordered 2 x NYXL = £39.50 delivered
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Just mount one of these on the rear cover plate - easy enough to drill + file the wee slot for USB-C
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Most outlandish prices
in General Discussion
Posted
Don't worry about it... people can ask any stupid price - it's what people will pay that counts.