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Bridgehouse

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Posts posted by Bridgehouse

  1. [quote name='charic' timestamp='1490176448' post='3262799']
    Could get more difficult now they're cracking down on RW usage too!
    [/quote]

    Very true. I suspect I will be keeping my eye out for something used. The JV Squier is a good shout - and it looks like the circa. '83 Fenders were also 44.5 (standards and elites)

  2. No the 64 will get played - at home, recorded, gigged. However, there will be some situations where I wouldn't want to take it - like a festival for instance - not sure I like the idea of it stuffed in the boot for hours on end or overnight, and would be worried about rain, heat, mud, etc. Probably and extreme example.

    I wasn't necessarily referring to a rougher gig as the clientele but the environment! Having said that, a good thwack from a Precision would be as good as a 59 burst I reckon - more length to swing and build up momentum.

  3. Limelight is an option, I guess. Or I could go find a 50's RW to try and see if I like the maple. It's not like I'm totally maple averse with a '74 P with maple FB, and a Stingray with maple FB as well ;)

    Still seems odd to me that there isn't at least one squier or cheaper mexican option with 1.75"

  4. Yeah - been doing a bit of research and I might be out of luck. So I'm after a rosewood C Neck (that's width not profile, confusingly!)

    The C neck is 1.75" (44.5mm) at the nut and was standard on Precisions up to '73.

    From '73 the B Neck became standard - 1.625" (41.3mm) as it is mostly today. The reissues seem to have the period correct 1.75" but are typically Maple not Rosewood - unless you go Custom Shop.

    In fact, I saw a CS 50th Anniv. 1964 P for sale recently - sunburst as well, but it's far too many ££ for a knock-about rough gigging bass...

    Looks to be hard to find a RW board 1.75" neck on anything below say, £800.

  5. The neck on my '64 Precision is 44.5mm - and having spent a lot more time on it I'm realising I really do like the width.

    Now I'm not going to take it out to every gig out there - even tho it is insured, so I'm looking for a cheap gigging alternative.

    Can you suggest a cheap precision with a vintage-ish sound with a neck width of more than 44mn at the nut?

  6. [quote name='geoffbyrne' timestamp='1489849582' post='3260320']
    Surely it's not beyond the wit of some UK manufacturer to produce shims equivalent to StewMac's? And at a reasonable cost, too.

    G.
    [/quote]

    Presumably the margins are very slim? (Ha ha)

  7. [quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1489843398' post='3260265']
    I've mentioned this before and it upset some owners but most musicman basses come with a factory shim made of plastic, at the same time I've never heard of one having the ski jump neck issue, then they do have six bolts spread across a larger area than fenders.
    [/quote]

    Dunno if 6 bolts makes a difference, but it might.

    To be fair most 70s Fenders came with a factory shim.

    I guess I'm reluctant to shove a bit of old plastic in the neck pocket when I can get one that fits and is made out of a decent tonewood.

    Placebo? Maybe. To me it's noticeable. For the sake of 10 quid I think it can't do any harm.

  8. [quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1489837743' post='3260199']
    I've never noticed any difference in sound or sustain using a shim of card, on either basses or guitars.
    [/quote]

    I definitely have.

    And I've played a few old ones with a shim that have had a definite ski jump above the 14th fret..

  9. [quote name='tonyquipment' timestamp='1489788634' post='3259967']
    I used an old credit or membership card. Cut that down and shimmed using that. Worked alright for me and cost nothing 😁
    [/quote]

    The issue is that all of the neck plate doesn't contact the whole length of the pocket. There's a step. As the wood is under tension via the screws it can warp a bit over time. Some say you lose a bit of sustain at the same time.

    It's not definitive, but it is a risk. And losing some sustain is certainly possible - after all why have through necks at all? ;)

  10. [quote name='chrisanthony1211' timestamp='1489786527' post='3259943']
    I find set up with TI flats particularly troublesome, almost not enough tension to get the relief I want even with the truss fully loosened off, great sounding string though.
    [/quote]

    I have that issue on my 74 P a bit - it seems to prefer Chromes.

    The 64 P is def. under truss rod tension with the TIs, but it seems to be really straight naturally.

    It's an odd one, for sure, some basses suit low tension, some don't..

  11. [quote name='ThePapabull' timestamp='1489783526' post='3259897']
    Thanks all...... I had to make a decision and I,ve gone with the TI's from Strings Direct.

    said it earlier but this forum is brilliant ..... really appreciate everyones contributions ......

    However I know feel the (real) need to start a new string related topic.......
    [/quote]

    You'll love them. Don't forget you may need to tweak the truss rod with lower tension strings as you may get a slight back bow with the TIs..

  12. [quote name='Conan' timestamp='1489761160' post='3259594']
    I have a similar problem with my MIM Fender Geddy Lee Jazz, so these suggestions are useful. Where would one get these shims of which you speak?
    [/quote]

    Stewmac in the US.

    They have a shipping to the uk deal on at the moment.

  13. I got a set of shaped and unshaped ones - they really are very good. Needed a little bit of tweaking with a sharp blade to fit my P absolutely perfectly, but its solid as a rock and I've noticed absolutely no difference between shimmed and unshimmed. Often, you notice a big difference, I find. I used the Shaped .25 degree and it raised my saddles by about 1.5 - 2 mm.

  14. [quote name='Hobbayne' timestamp='1489753736' post='3259469']
    I cant get the saddles on my Nate Mendel P Bass any lower. Its not a Badass bridge, (I think they were only fitted to the early models) but a Fender type.
    I cant get the truss rod set and the action set together. Would a shim be my best bet??
    [/quote]

    Possibly. If you do shim then you are better off getting one of the StewMac full pocket ones so there's no risk of ski jump later on, and you don't lose any contact between neck and body. They do .25 .5 and 1 degree as a set for a P bass pocket size

  15. [quote name='Musicman20' timestamp='1489752926' post='3259461']


    Good call! A clean amp with the TH pedal! Plus then you have the TH pedal for recording or gigs where you can just turn up with a high end DI.....OR, use the pedal with backlines that are supplied and get the TH tone.
    [/quote]

    Yeah that's what I was thinking. You can then get a nice rounded head with lots of clean headroom and something that matches your cab well, without worrying about the dirty or warmer tones. The TH pedal will cover that. Get a B7K and you're done for any kind of dirt or vintage you might ever need.. and when you need super clean, you've got that too!

    (And having the pedal in your bag for backup DI or for into supplied backline is a bonus)

  16. [quote name='Osiris' timestamp='1489733206' post='3259235']


    I'm only after a new amp at the minute. The cab that I have gigged with regularly for the past 5 or 6 years is a Tecamp M212 which, I believe, a direct ancestor of the Eich gear, so if I was to end up with an Eich amp, I think they'd be a superb match.

    Although I still haven't ruled out the TH 350 yet!
    [/quote]

    Worth trying them all mate! I tried as many as I could and I'm really glad I did. You will find the one that suits your ear..

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