PaulFenderJazz

1 hour ago, Al Krow said:

 

Just seen you're looking at something for vocals also and want to avoid gear duplication...in which case the single PA top / FRFR option may well be the better option for you if you're looking for something that covers all the bases (excuse the pun!)

 

Do you have PA already? If not, there's a whole separate rabbit hole for you to dive into e.g. Compact budget PA set-up to put bass through (without back-line) - I ended up ditching my backline for a pair of RCF 912As, but there's plenty of other options! And many of those PA speakers have been widely used as FRFR speakers by BC'ers: the RCF 732A seems to be a popular option and would handle vox better than my 912As due to better mid range horns.

Thanks, I was actually thinking potentially at a compact PA as I don’t have one yet: eg a Mackie Thump, Bose S1, or similar. Thanks for the link I’ll check out that thread🙂

9 hours ago, Al Krow said:

We put our full band through a pair of RCF 912As, without needing a sub, and they provide us with a very decent bass response.

 

A single 912A should therefore be able to very comfortably handle bass if you want to use it as a 'FRFR' powered speaker, and will cost a fraction the price a many of the more traditional separate amp & cab set ups that many BC'ers use. But perhaps the better comparison is with something like a Markbass CMD 121P combo, in which case the price differential is not so large, particularly if you are comparing used prices.

A good comparison: the Markbass CMD 121P is a very good benchmark in my view

4 hours ago, warwickhunt said:

 

I wouldn't jump to go down the mixer route yet as I've found most preamp pedals (I have 5 and all do) will drive an active PA cab.  I'm sure someone cleverer than me (i.e. all of the above contributors) will know how many mV etc you need.

 

Brilliant, great advice, thanks🙂

5 minutes ago, warwickhunt said:

 

Not all pedal preamps are created equal!  I've got several preamp pedals that happily drive an active speaker QSC K10 but I've recently become aware that not every pedal will be guaranteed to do this.  I know the word 'impedance' is the incorrect term to use but effectively the output of the pedal needs to have enough juice to drive the amp section; you'd think being a preamp that this would be a given but apparently not!  

Ah, I wondered that! Is there any guidance on what to look for in a preamp? In my last acoustic group I went from my pedal board via a mixer to the PA, maybe a small (eg 2-3 channel) mixer would solve the problem ??

On 04/04/2025 at 14:47, dave_bass5 said:

I sold my cab when we went in to lockdown. Last year I was rehearsing with a new band on bass, and used my Yamaha DBR-12 active PA cab. No issues at all seeing up with the band, and it felt a bit clearer than I had been used to with a 2x12 (a very good one though). 

I was driving it with just a BDDI or Zoom B-2 Four. I wasn't expecting FRFR, It was just all i had to hand, but id like to go this route again when I find another band to play bass with. 

I was thinking of going a similar route, as I’m also looking to get a back line solution for playing with a band again, but am also wanting a PA solution for potential solo acoustic guitar/singer performances and I’d rather not duplicate gear. Would a pedal board preamp work straight into an active PA speaker as a solution for bass? TIA

How does it play? I was toying with contacting him about a build, but just don’t know the brand or reputation, I assume just due to low volumes.

11 hours ago, Downunderwonder said:

Bubble wrap is false security. It can't take up the energy of an impact the likes of falling out the back of the van. Not much can.

 

Your mission is to keep up appearances and make it difficult for them to break it.

 

1 box far too big.

1 box just big enough.

A large number of small sturdy boxes.

Stanley knife.

Bubble Wrap.

 

Wrap cab in enough BW to make it snug in the just size box. You can make a just size box from two identical boxes that are the right footprint, tops cut off and jammed together. 

 

Take your multitude of small boxes and cut them up through the guts so you make a bunch of corners. These you nest around the corners of your just size box so it fits in the oversized box. Pack the leftover space with squishy stuff for show.

Thanks, great advice

6 hours ago, Waddycall said:

I sold a rumble 115 cab on here recently and sent it via parcelforce. I dropped it off at our local post office. I went a bit overboard on the packaging but would rather do that than have it arrived damaged. 

I put a layer of thick cardboard over the grill with 3 lengths of 2 x 1 timber taped to it as reinforcement bars across the speaker grille then put a layer of bubble wrap over the whole thing and then a layer of cardboard and lots and lots of tape. Worked a treat but took me hours!

Wow, that’s impressive! I am planning on double layer box and bubble wrap…..

7 hours ago, stevie said:

I wouldn't put people off using the Post Office. I've always found them quite good. However, I always use a broker like ParcelToGo, as recommended by @BassAdder27, as they are a lot cheaper for the same service.

Thanks, good advice

42 minutes ago, BassAdder27 said:

Yep loads but never post - courier 

 

I recommend DPD as the shops use them too 

 

Parcel2go is a good place to book or go direct to DPD online 

 

Make sure you add the insurance just in case 

 

Ive always kept the original boxes so that’s easier. 
 

 

Fantastic advice, I’m useless at keeping boxes! 

Not sure if this is the right forum, but has anyone posted cabs or amps they’ve sold? I was after guidance on safely packaging for example my NY121 or CMD121 to send to buyers. I’m concerned about making sure they arrive safely!

Cab still for sale

33 minutes ago, lownote said:

Where are you in Suffolk?

Selling my 121 cab as I don’t get to use it anymore. Lightly gigged, but I can’t see any marks at all and works perfectly. Comes with Roqsolid cover. I’m selling my CMD 121 combo as well, will accept an offer for the 2. 

Selling my 121P as I just don’t get to use it anymore. Lightly gigged: a couple of small marks on the amp fascia and one corner, see photos, otherwise perfect, and no issues in performance. No marks, tears or pilling on the cover. Comes with a Roqsolid cover. Selling extension cab as well, see separate ad, I’d take an offer for the 2

7 hours ago, ezbass said:

I so very much want one of these. White with a roasted maple neck & fretboard. I’m most envious. 😍

 Thanks, they really are worth the money once you can save up!

8 hours ago, three said:

Absolutely beautiful - what a lovely, understated but very classy colour.  I think the finish will have been from Bow - utterly superb work.  I picked-up a Mullarkey a few months ago and it's been a revelation.  I've spent years with active only basses but Viv's approach to passives works incredibly well.  Playability is superb on these and they're just such good fun - a joy to pick-up and play for hours.  This looks like a new(?) approach to the control layout - is it VVT?  Most I've seen are VT with a three-way pick-up selector.  A very lovely bass indeed

Thanks, really pleased with it. The colour I asked for was Lake Placid Blue metallic , I think this is actually a bit bluer and sparklier than that, but I think actually better than I had planned 😀. I asked for the VVT controls as they work so well on my AP Mustang: as you say Viv’s default is VT plus selecter. Would love to see a picture of the one you went for: as you say they are superb

Went down to Camden at the weekend and collected my Wilcock Mullarkey. Viv’s been building it since May and it’s been worth the wait. A beautiful looking and sounding guitar. Instantly my favourite!  

Thanks everyone for all your advice, invaluable as always!

Can I pick the brains of our resident techs? My Markbass CMD121P is making the occasional crackle when turning the master volume or gain knobs; I assume there could be some dirt built up in there somewhere? Any tips on how best to cure the problem? Cheers 

On 20/10/2020 at 20:56, ahpook said:

Middle-ageing bass players with bad backs and aching joints

 

Count me in there! 

On 20/10/2020 at 17:01, P-Belly Evans said:

For me, the tone of my Mustang is to die for. I am not fazed by scale length, string spacing, weight,  4 or 5 strings (never played more), active or passive. I love all my basses, but man the Mustang sounds so cool - especially playing funk with a plectrum for some reason........ 

Same here, I’ve found the tone works really well across multiple genres. I switched from a Jazz to a 4003 to the Mustang and haven’t looked back, plus so easy to get through a long gig (when they return) without your hand cramping up! I have a MIM PJ, which sounds great, but also my fave is my AP which can deliver a real range of sounds.

Quick update, Tanglewood arrived, initial impressions good, flats on order, so we’ll see how it sounds once they’re here. Thanks for all the advice!

1 minute ago, Wylie said:

My Hofner Contemporary Series "Club" bass, with the exact neck and general set-up of the violin version, was indeed a lot of trouble. Reducing the factory action took a lot of time (and some dollars as well). With reduced action, the bass was a very good one. The Contemporary version was $795, including case, and well worth it, I felt--after the adjustments.

Thanks, v useful to know, I’ve actually just pulled the trigger on a used Tanglewood, hoping that as it’s not new the set up should be OK

1 hour ago, TheLowDown said:

I think the HBs are made at the fair price, and the Hofners are charging much more than they're worth.

Good point