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SpondonBassed

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Posts posted by SpondonBassed

  1. 1 minute ago, rwillett said:

     <Tl;Dr>No</Tl;Dr>

     

    Think about the shape of the head and the movement of the head. It moves all over the bed based on the fundamental premise there is nothing higher than it and so it can move everywhere and anywhere.  A support block would immediately crash into the head. This is the reason why you print supports. 

     

    Ah.

  2. 10 hours ago, rwillett said:

    when the print head nudges a nut

     

    ...it's time to sit a bit further back from the job.

     

    Re: supports, would it be possible to print over a block of print resistant material that is the shape of the void and that can be pulled out of the print at the end?

  3. 28 minutes ago, Si600 said:

    You could have flipped the bezel so the sharp bit was on the opposite corner to your thumb.

     

    If you look closely at the image there are two holes at the top and one at the bottom for the adjustment screws so that wasn't an option.

  4. Okay so it's more repair than build but I thought it deserved its own thread rather than hijack Rob's 3D Guitar thread any further.

     

    Some time back I mentioned on that thread that I had a damaged pickup bezel on my B2A and he immediately offered to 3D print it for me - free of charge.  He wouldn't even let me cover postage.  I sent him an STL file I downloaded from the 'net.  He remodelled it to his own satisfaction and sent me two set of bezels.

     

    @rwillett,  As promised, here is a photo of the job.

     

    B2ABezels.thumb.jpg.b8895afa59aeaff0e42edee828a28cfc.jpg

     

    • Left:  The original bezel.  It was flimsy.   With one corner missing it left my thumb exposed to the sharp edge of the countersunk screwhead just where I need to rest it.
    • Centre:  Rob's 3D print as received.  Rob wasn't happy with the finish.  As he mentioned, on his guitar thread, he was chasing a bug on his printer.  I was completely happy though.
    • Right:  Rob's print sanded progressively from 180 through 800 to finish with 2500 wet and dry.  Holes cleaned up to size and rounded edges as per original.  I had him print them a bit thicker. maybe a mm or so and they're much better.

     

    They fit perfectly on the bass and are an improvement over the original, thin, plastic bezels.

     

    Thanks Rob!

    • Like 8
  5. 3 hours ago, rwillett said:

    Any idea what sort of glue would be good to fix the nut to the neck?

     

    Forget glue.  I'd be inclined to try printing the nut with a shallow locating dowel (or two) and making a corresponding hole (or holes) for it (or them) on the neck.

     

    That would stop lateral movement and string tension would do the rest.  If you need a new nut it's easy to swap.

    • Like 2
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