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escholl

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Posts posted by escholl

  1. [quote name='Hamster' post='237963' date='Jul 12 2008, 02:48 PM']16 + 4 in parallel will give you an approx 3.2 ohm load, I think the LMII goes to 4 ohm minimum?

    Hamster[/quote]


    correct. i don't know if you have the minirig version with the slanted top cab like i do, but if you just use that it should be more than loud enough from home practice and the speaker will point up at you a bit, so should be a bit clearer as well. don't worry about the 4 ohm speaker unless of course it sounds better, then just use that on its own with the LM.

    what happened to the ashdown head? there's not much to go wrong in those things, really.

  2. [quote name='mojo filters' post='237841' date='Jul 12 2008, 10:48 AM']Obviously just make sure the item hasn't been shipped by some fool who puts the correct value on a proper commercial invoice, though even if it has I'd recommend claiming this was an error on the part of the sender when challenging the customs charges.[/quote]


    the worst part is, when you buy something in the US and get it sent to your house in the US, and then get your parents to ship it to you. seems simple, right?

    well, not when your bloody parents don't listen to you, declare the full value of the pedal officially and everything, AND then ship via fedex practially-overnight ($141) versus USPS ($29). by the time it got to me, and after having all the ridiculous fees to fedex, which i tried to challege but they employed some outside debt agency who were getting really nasty with me, it cost me more than if i'd just bought it here. it was only a PBDDI, and it should have only cost me 116 pounds with shipping.

    i should have known fedex would be trouble anyways when they gave me NO indication of any payment upon delivery. then called me two days later, demanding payment, and seemed positively surprised i would do something as absurd as wait for an invoice before paying them for something i shouldn't have to pay in the first place...as if i'm just going to blindly give them more money!

    FRUSTRATION!....yea, i'm still not over that.

  3. [quote name='charic' post='237566' date='Jul 11 2008, 08:12 PM']Hey im an ex ARU student :) what course are you on? Mulletboy is alright but a tad pricey. If you want a cheaper place and can drive the practice rooms at wyton are worth a look. Infact i have practice next week there.[/quote]

    i'm doing audio tech & electronics, just finished my second year. how do i find out more about the wyton rooms? you'll have to forgive me if it's a simple answer as i'm a bit drunk :huh:

  4. [quote name='cheddatom' post='237531' date='Jul 11 2008, 07:17 PM']I was trying to get a 68 on but ended up using an 80 or something from a bass. I want as heavy as possible. I am about to try now. Online at home!! It is a rarity.

    I've just unwound the end of the 68 I had and it's gone on and sounds fine. My problem now is that there's nowhere near enough tension (I think) in the strings. The intonation is spot on, unless you press down hard on the strings, then they go sharp. I know this is normal, but this is reallly noticably, much more than any guitar or bass i've tried. Also, the strings are so easy to bend I keep moving them off the fret board!![/quote]


    what do you have it tuned to?

  5. [quote name='BigRedX' post='232647' date='Jul 4 2008, 01:06 PM']Apparently the next batch of Lace Helix fretless basses will have the dots in the correct place corresponding with where the fretline would be. Just one of the downsides or being an "early adaptor".

    Alternatively I do have fretless bass serial number 2![/quote]


    i don't know much about them, but obviously you were one of their first customers. if they are changing over, have you thought about just getting in touch with them, rather than drill holes in your bass?

    you never know, maybe they can sort it out for you if you explain it to them.

    just an idea?

  6. [quote name='bremen' post='237426' date='Jul 11 2008, 04:20 PM']The lockup sounds pretty good, and plenty spacious for a five-piece with keyboards and big drumkit. Last time I was there a year ago the vocal PA was a bit crap. Bit scary leaving at midnight (mate was mugged for the ladder on top of his van!)

    Flightpath is truly horrible; terrible acoustics for bass (basically it's a garage) and smells of mould. Vocal PA is laughable (two cheapo 'wedges' nailed to the wall and an underpowered mixer-amp).

    I don't know halfton. I've heard that mulletboy has two rooms with no soundproofing between them.

    Which uni? There are a couple of rooms at Churchill. Maybe recruit a tambourine player who just happens to be a grad there?[/quote]


    haha ok thanks, you've saved me from going to flighpath! mulletboy is not amazing, actually its terrible, and the most expensive of all the places i've been. they're not very nice either, and they stole one of our really nice (although old) double-braced pearl cymbal stands and won't give it back. cause you know, drum hardware is sooo cheap. NOT. they are however, at least a proper recording studio and not a garage, even if all of their equipment is not so great and their rooms not particularly amazing either.

    lockup sounds a little scary at night, we were supposed to go wednesday but then one of the guitarists and the drummer decided they cba, so there was no point in me and the other guitarist going, esp since we'd have to walk there. definitely will be planning to go back now though, based on your recommendation :)

    the uni i go to is ARU, there's rooms there that are empty like, all the time but the admin is a joke so actually getting something organized is going to take a while. maybe if ARU spent a little less money on advertising EVERYWHERE and more on its students, it'd be a much better place haha :huh:

  7. [quote name='rayfw' post='230629' date='Jul 1 2008, 04:15 PM']I have one of those which works perfectly powering an EBS Multicomp and an EBS Microbass II but when I daisy chain it to my Korg AX3000B as well it hums like a bugger. It should be capable of powering all three with current to spare but I have to power the Korg seperately with its original power supply to avoid the hum.
    :)[/quote]

    just got one of these today, can't beat the price haha

    seriously though, mine is very low noise and (comparing the two on my oscilloscope) quieter than the maplin branded one i was using before that. the maplin wasn't a SMPS though, had a conventional transformer and was about 5 times the size, also had about 1mv of ripple but a very low amount of transients. the shredfreak has no ripple at all, being a SMPS, and is smaller and much lighter, but the filtering seems to be not as good as it could be. lots of current on tap, but lots of transients in the signal as well...in audible, as far as i can tell however. my educated guess is, it's on a par with the diago. probably not physically as tough, and certainly made on the cheap in regards to individual components, but really a SMPS is an SMPS and i have a feeling diago charge 55 or whatever for theirs simply because they have to if they want to be taken seriously.

    strangely, if i have the DI of my sansamp connected to my soundcard, i get a hum that i never got before, unless the line out of the sansamp is also connected to my amplifier input. i don't think it's anything to do specifically with the new PS though, even though the old one didn't do it i think it has more to do with grounding/ground loop issues. i'm not too worried about it though, as it's not really an issue and i can't see it being one.

    the korgs/etc will have issues with daisy chaining for the same reasons that some line6's do, has to do with their internal circuitry.

  8. [quote name='Pkomor' post='237226' date='Jul 11 2008, 12:18 PM']the only other thing the would be through body string ferules, but those are not really [i]needed[/i], unless someone has some lying around![/quote]

    what if you took the little metal rings off a set of old strings, and embedded them into the wood, and then strung the strings through that? i don't know if they're always big enough on all string makes, but the ones off the ends of my ghs strings are big enough for a 105 E string to fit through.

  9. [quote name='Pkomor' post='237168' date='Jul 11 2008, 11:18 AM']hehe no worries!

    if i cant find them anywhere else, do you mind if i send another envelope your way?

    Mr foxen, i have replied to your post in the build diarys thread![/quote]


    yea no problem -- i'll have to look through what i've got. don't think i have a pot, but can probably find a jack, and might have an old string tree, knob, and probably a tone capacitor as well.

  10. [quote name='cheddatom' post='237084' date='Jul 11 2008, 09:20 AM']I thought that if I did that then the whole string might just unwind itself. Is that stupid?[/quote]


    nah i don't think it would do that, because it will be wrapped around the tuning peg a few more times still and the friction should keep it from unravelling. there's not much tension on the outer wrap anyways, all the tension is on the string core. i've never done it before though, so i wouldn't know for certain, but i really can't see it going wrong if you're careful.

  11. going against what (seemingly) everyone else has said, i'd say upgrade it! i spent about 190 pounds on my yamaha, which is actually a lower model then yours, upgrading literally everything but the body, neck, and tuners. did all the work myself, and the difference has been huge! i don't intend to resell it, ever, so for me the value loss/gain wasn't a problem. the bass is built really well, the neck is smooth and even etc. (at least in my case) so it was worth it just to upgrade everything else. i feel, although i may be wrong, but i feel that to get a bass of similar quality and tone to what i have now, i would have had to spend about 500 pounds new, or 200-300 used.

    still, its up to you, i'm good with my hands and with a soldering iron, and know how to properly set up action/intonation/relief/etc, so it was all simple and easy for me to do if not a bit time consuming.

  12. i've got a fender one, but it's not a pedal. sits on the floor after a little switch box i made, momentary switch that only changes when i step on it, that way i never accidentally mute myself. mutes the amp signal when bypassed to tuner, and the tuner has got a huge display which is nice and easy to read :)

    never had a problem with it, works perfect every time and is very accurate, at least as far as i can tell. I've also got a Korg AT-12, and the fender seems just as accurate, although perhaps not as precise only having 3 led's to light instead of a needle. still, i really like this setup.

  13. [quote name='thisnameistaken' post='236217' date='Jul 10 2008, 12:32 AM']You might actually be better off with a pedal that has a good buffer rather than true bypass somewhere in your chain, just to help pump your signal along to the amp.[/quote]

    +1

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