Dan Dare

I agree with Cameron. Mixers that are built into PA speakers (even the better ones) don't tend to be so practical. And of course, if you run a separate mixer, you can use it with additional speakers/amplification if needed. 

8 hours ago, Bill Fitzmaurice said:

While valves have their place in instrument amps it's not due to how they sound when driven clean but how they sound when driven dirty. For those who think valves are superior for stereo/HT watch this starting at the 3:20 marker. It wouldn't hurt to watch all of it, for that matter.

 

I watched that last time you posted it, Bill. The speakers are articulate and well informed, but talking about music and music reproduction isn't the same as listening to music. Rational argument only gets us so far. I'm not advocating for magic or weirdness, but valves/tubes do have something to offer (imho, of course) for stereo/hi-fi use that other devices don't seem to have. I have heard some astonishing systems in my time. They weren't perfect and some even had flaws - a set of single ended, low powered vale amps, driving horn loaded speakers that I heard once, for example, had a noticeable midrange honk, BUT I have never heard the human voice reproduced quite as well or convincingly. Perhaps it's due to the fact that we cannot measure everything that is important to music reproduction (and probably that we don't know what it all is, yet - human knowledge is still pitifully limited, after all). And of course, you don't drive valves into distortion for stereo type of listening. You need to use a powerful enough amplifier (think 300Bs, rather than EL84s) to avoid that. 

1 hour ago, LukeFRC said:

I don't even know what this one is but boy I bet it sounds $11000 https://www.higherfi.com/phono/koetsu-coralstone

really do a group of people actually pay this kind of mental money for a hi Fi system? What exactly are they listening to on it? Some album mastered to sound good on Spotify via iPhone earbuds? 

You have to remember that not everyone plays modern pop albums "mastered to sound good on Spotify via iPhone earbuds". If you have some of the classic EMI classical records, for example, they sound a bit special when played via the right kit. The fact is that  there is a difference to be gained with esoteric hi-fi, but the law of diminishing returns applies firmly. If you are fortunate enough to be able to spend the necessary, though, the results can be spectacular.

Not sure I understand why the seller is talking about using amps such as Lab Gruppen, MC2, etc. The only way to drive a pair of big Tannoy duals is with valves (that should stir up a few replies). They're very efficient, so a big trannie amp would be barely ticking over and wouldn't give of its best. Something like this would be the route to audio nirvana, I humbly suggest - http://www.audio-markt.de/_markt/item.php?id=8323733177.

I think you're going to have to forget the "inexpensive" bit...

On ‎11‎/‎04‎/‎2018 at 23:20, rushscored4 said:

Same with acoustic guitars. For example is a Gibson Hummingbird or Dove really 10 x better than its Epiphone sibling?

It may well be after 20 or so years playing. Good acoustic instruments improve with age. I have a 1975 Martin D35 that is very well played in and its a remarkable instrument.

I've moved in the opposite direction. Played the fiddle for may years (still do), but these days I get more satisfaction out of creating the harmonic and rhythmic foundation of a piece of music than from playing melody/solo lines over the top of it. 

On ‎08‎/‎04‎/‎2018 at 22:15, Lozz196 said:

For this sort of thing I usually recommend seeing as many bands as possible and trying the gear which has most impressed you as a listener. I had loads of different amps/cabs, and found Ashdown by accident, as every time I used one as a provided rig, I just liked the "slam" of the sound better than anything else. Previously my gear was small/costly/lightweight, whereas now it`s none of those, so don`t discount lower-end gear. Get out there and enjoy some bands/bassists, and set your ears to work.

This. And go to a few decent shops and try stuff out (Bass Direct an obvious choice because they stock so much of the higher end makes and you can compare to your heart's content - provided you go in the week when they're not busy - which is what I did when I upgraded last year). The Market Place is stuffed with high end kit because people bought it on the basis of recommendation/reputation alone  and found it wasn't what they wanted.

Did you buy direct? Unless you did, the retailer should be your first port of call.

9 hours ago, Chienmortbb said:

Matrix make power amps that have a switch mode supply and a class A/B input especially for musicians. However Class D amps are being refined all the time and are now a mature technology. I remember the first solid state amps, they were poor but no one would deny the quality of Trace Elliot power stages. I believe we are now in that stage with Class D.

True, but that has a lot to do with the fact that so many of the major manufacturers use B&O ICEPower modules.

How are we defining a practice amp, here? Size, price, power?

EBS Session 30.

For a better quality small format mixer, have a look at the Mackie VLZ range. This is the smallest - https://www.gear4music.com/PA-DJ-and-Lighting/Mackie-402-VLZ4-4-Channel-Analog-Compact-Mixer/UVQ. Much better mic preamps than most small/inexpensive mixers and well built.

A lot of instrument for the money, provided you can stand the banana headstock.

Sensible words from Dangoose. If we want compact, light, powerful amps, we have to accept the design trade offs, which include the fact that a way has to be found to keep them from overheating. If we don't want large heatsinks, that means a fan.

Those Carvin pre-amps are great. I have the B1000 as a backup and the eq is excellent.

4 hours ago, BassBod said:

Could be many things, but start without Sansamp.  If bass into amp/cab doesn’t produce gigging volume, then there’s a problem (speaker cable/sockets?).  

I’m guessing the PV is a power amp, not full head.  Should still be ok, if the Sansamp uses the jack output set to its high/line level option (with the small push button).  Also, look up the manual for the amp and get to know the options for speaker connection (sometimes complicated for power amps with multiple uses)

best of luck

Peavey PV1500 is indeed a power amp, so will need line level (at least .775mv) to drive it adequately. A bass without a preamp will not provide that and neither will most pedals.

Why doesn't he want to sell? Just because he won't do what you want? Perhaps he's just wary. Selling music gear is a minefield. I usually insist on collection by the buyer unless I receive cash from the person who collects. Try offering him that and see.

335 case? Or a case for a Dreadnought sized acoustic guitar may do it, although the neck may be too long.

East make an excellent product, but I felt the J Retro I fitted to my J bass, whilst being super clean and having more of everything than the passive set-up, robbed the instrument of some of its essential character. In the end, I sold it and went back to passive. I'd certainly agree with others above who recommend trying different pickups first before changing the pre'.

They look in excellent shape and I like the price. I use 4 HK Premium Pro10s as monitors and they work very well.

Another way to purchase Kappalites?

Take your head to a well-stocked shop and try it with a few cabs. Don't listen to us. We'll all recommend what we like and there's no guarantee you'll feel the same.

9 hours ago, Bill Fitzmaurice said:

Tweeters don't create hiss, they only reproduce hiss created by the electronics. Replacing the tweeter won't get rid of hiss.

Bill's correct as usual. Just disconnect the tweeter. Once you're used to the lack of ticking and clattering, fret rattle and general nastiness in your sound, you'll be much happier 

On ‎01‎/‎04‎/‎2018 at 22:55, Happy Jack said:

Pruning the heard sounds like you're cutting back on what you listen to ...

 

My thoughts exactly.