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three

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Posts posted by three

  1. I used to do this live all the time, and decades ago, though only when playing with larger/hired PAs.  With a decent DI box, monitor mix and good engineers, I didn't encounter any problems and didn't have to lift anything more than the bass/case.  I loved the simplicity and had some of the best bass tones I've experienced.  I've sort of gone backwards and now mess about a lot with backline and preamps.

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  2. I tend to favour basses that have a recognised core 'characterful' tone, for example, Wal, Alembic, Steinberger, Warwick (Thumb), Spector (Haz and EMG), and at some time have owned all in that list.  This isn't to say that other brands/basses don't have a characterful tone, just that perhaps those in the first list have a pretty specific and recognisable sound.  I've also owned and enjoyed Fender, Fodera, Shuker, Sei, Overwater, Wilcock etc. (and many more, absolutely nuts though fun) but find these, however brilliant and useable, to be a bit more 'vanilla' in their tonal palette.  For me, most of the time, if using a 'characterful' bass, then relatively simple 'bass - lead - preamp - power amp', permits emphasis and focus on the elements of the bass that constitute its particularity.  Use of effects, and even exaggerated use of eq or compression, can tend to mask (semi-) unique tonal qualities.  Oh, and I still use and enjoy plenty of 'vanilla' basses (there term isn't employed here as any kind of pejorative).  Further, I hear and enjoy lots of brilliant bassists that use effects with brilliant results, it's perhaps just not for me.  

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  3. A beautiful bass and my favourite neck and colour configuration for a Jazz (well, this and the dot and bound '66 in pretty much any colour).  I had a natural '76 for years - again, a stunning instrument with monumental tone and an incredibly low and playable action.  There were some great basses from this period and I've no doubt that this is one of them.  Unfortunately, it's pretty much short-scale only for me only now, and weight is always an issue.  I think my '76 was around 11.5lbs so this one is relatively light!  I'm pretty sure that the weight and density of the timber has something to do with the big, three-dimensional and (potentially) very aggressive tone on these.  GLWTS, for what it's worth and IMO, a very reasonable price for this condition and vintage 

    • Thanks 1
  4. I agree entirely with Walshy and grenadillabama. Restoring this to original spec would cost a fortune. The current mods look very cool to me, though I’d tidy up the input a bit. I had an active circuit and SD P pickup fitted to mine and it’s never had the classic Ripper tone since. I’ve had a look at creating or procuring a typical Ripper plate - very expensive indeed unless you get really lucky. Only pic of mine I have to hand, you can just about see the middle pickup - modded Rippers look brilliant (to me), even if they lose their core tone. Baggy lemon keks and a permed mullet - gotta love the ‘80s

     

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  5. A mate of mine is moving from a very large house to a large house and de-cluttering furiously.  About 15 years ago, I aided his son in buying a first bass - it's this one, an Epiphone EB3 in cherry.  The bass was not really used and just sat in the corner of a bedroom.  It needs to go as the son moved away some time ago.  There's a bit of a package here, so you get:

     

    EB3 bass - it's in very good condition but with minor signs of play and storage.  I've cleaned it pretty thoroughly and it's shiny.  Lovely slim neck with a 1.5" nut (I think) and 34" scale.  The only notable scrape is at the end of the head (pictured).  All works as it should.  Strung with old but hardly used Rotosound rounds (45-105 I'd think).  The action is low, possibly too low, as there's some buzzing on the E and A, from around fret 10 (D) on the E.  That said, the bass is very playable indeed and sounds just as one would expect (mud bucker and bridge pickup doing what they do).  There's quite a bit of relief in the neck and a quick turn of the rod and action lift on the bass side should sort any buzzes without much hassle; 

     

    Zoom BFX-708 in very clean condition and fully working when tested;

     

    Bag that is dusty and scruffy with a broken zip - the bag is only really useful to carry the bass away and maybe to keep dust off the bass in storage.  I'll give the bag a bit of a brush before sale;

     

    Strap - a cheap but functional Levis affair in red nylon - again, dusty but I'll give it a brush; and

     

    Cable - this is new and in its cardboard packaging - I haven't tested it but I can't see why it wouldn't work (sort of medium length)

     

    Given scarcity of spare time and lack of a box, this really needs to be collected just outside Manchester or in Manchester city centre.  Any questions, please just ask. 

     

     

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  6. 1 hour ago, Happy Jack said:

    Had an HBP-1 years ago, lovely thing, never graduated to running it with an integrated power amp (that was the start of my love affair with Powersoft kit).

     

    Puzzled by one thing ... there's a Volume control for the preamp (no Gain) but no separate Volume control for the power amp. How do you increase the Gain without increasing the Volume?

     

    This looks like a lovely and very well thought-through design, though a very good question - I might scuttle off to see if the manual is on-line!

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  7. Thanks for posting - I hadn't seen this previously.  I'd like to know the answers the questions you pose - I suspect that somebody on here will know.  A producer/engineer mate of mine has been working recently on some remasters of various Who works - he may have an idea.   Undoubtedly one of my favourite rock albums.  Whatever one might think of PT, the man has some serious talent as composer/writer

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  8. Thanks and apologies for the late response - apologies too, this a question that I can't answer in detail.  There is little relevant information on the Lakland site.  If it helps at all, I think the pickup is around 12 years old and I'd suspect that it predates the Neo Punch pickups.  My suspicion is that it's the Vingate Hot P4 (though I don't have any way of proving this).  Unfortunately, I don't have a meter (or access to one) at the moment

  9. 2 hours ago, Baloney Balderdash said:

    Can't answer for them, but that is what I would do, as the Effects Return socket is effectively a power amp input, bypassing the preamp section for it not to color the output of your Monique.

     

    And as, as far as I understand it, you got a line level poweramp transformer output on the Monique, meant to be fed into a poweramp to amplify it further, but while still given a tube poweramp tone, the whole point with this tiny tube amp (that you get the full tube pre+power-amp tone that just needs to be amplified further), adding another tube poweramp would kind of be obsolete, and in fact possibly even unwanted in order to not futher color the intended, already full tube pre+power-amp, tone from the Monique too much.  

     

     

    Thanks for this - I run the Monique into the 'power amp in' on the back of the DB750.  This bypasses the preamp section of the latter, though it should be possible to do the same with the effects return (I just don't use that option).  The DB751 doesn't appear to have the 'power amp in' on the back panel - I suspect that this was dropped as a (semi) redundant feature.  The 751 is a superb amp, and has the 'improved' tone-stack.  That said, I retain a slight preference for the 750 (I know a few users of the big Aggies that feel the same).  My DB750 was in for a switch repair for a short while recently (my fault - snapped a switch whilst swinging the amp around - it's a bit of a beast to carry).  I used a GSS Baby Sumo to deputise - Class D obviously.  The Monique performed gloriously with that, as does a Warwick Hellborg pre.  For most practical purposes, I'd go with the Class D idea.  However, there is a significant difference when using the pres with the 750.  Perhaps more coloured, but more of everything - bigger, wider, higher, deeper.  Dynamics are tremendous.  Ridiculous to try to express this in words, but there's certainly a very positive difference when listening very critically.  I hope this helps.  I'm going to dig the Hellborg power amp out of storage if I can lift it.  This thread has inspired me   

  10. A very lightly used set of short-scale Rotosound 88s tru bass black nylon tape wound strings.  These were cut for a 2 a side short-scale bass.  Length of the E and G strings is 870mm (measured from the ball end to the start of the turn for the winding), and that for the A and D strings is 940mm.  Yellow/gold silks are in very good but not perfect condition.  I can ship in the UK for around £3.00.  The cheapest that I can see these on-line is £40.

     

    Full details are here:

     

    https://www.rotosound.com/product/rs88s/

     

    Any questions, please just ask

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  11. Reduced to £50 - a Lakland US Precision pickup taken from a US 44-64 bass.  I've had this lying around for a while now.  It comes in a Fralin box that appears to have a bit of history - Vinny F (Fodera?) is crossed out on the lid.  Not a selling point at all, just curious.  The pickup is in very good, used condition with a few marks on the pickup covers.  There's plenty of wire for fitting.  I can ship in the UK (at buyer's risk) for about £5.00, though collection in Manchester city centre is good.  Any questions, please just ask. 

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  12. I appear to have accumulated a number of gold bridges that I don't need.  This one is a very shiny, gold BBOT - standard Fender fit.  It was sold to me as a Wilkinson, but doesn't have the Wilkinson name engraved on the baseplate.  It appears to have brass saddles (they're a slightly different colour to the gold plate).  Brand new, unfitted and unused.  I can ship in the UK (at buyer's risk) for about £3.00.  Any questions, please just ask.

     

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  13. Price reduced to £70.  I appear to have accumulated a number of gold bridges that I don't need.  This is a brand new, unfitted Hipshot Kickass in its original packaging and with all screws and spares etc.  I only opened the packaging to check that all was in order.  These seem to go for around £120 (that’s what I paid) - I think BD has them in stock.  I can ship in the UK (at buyer's risk) for around £5.  Any questions, please just ask.

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  14. I appear to have accumulated a number of gold bridges that I don't need.  This one is a Gotoh 404 BO4 (details here: https://g-gotoh.com/product/404bo-4/?lang=en)

     

    These seem to sell new for around £80, though it doesn't appear there are many available.  This one is in good but used condition and is fully functional.  It's in the correct Gotoh packaging but doesn't have the correct product stickers.  There are a few minor marks from mounting but the unit is very clean and the plating is in excellent order.  Shipping (at buyer's risk) should be around £4 in the uk.

     

    The link above should provide all size and fitting details.  Any questions, please just ask.  

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  15. On 18/06/2023 at 14:45, Gianni "Orlandez" Orlati said:

    Stupid question mine but I want to ask it the same .. how can the height of each of the bridge saddles be adjusted? Is it possible to do so?

    Sorry, I just saw this and not a stupid question at all - indeed, a good one.  It isn't possible to adjust each saddle individually.  Height adjustment for all saddles is effected via the two bolts - one at either end of the bridge.  Quite common with vintage style (especially Gibson-type) basses as far as I can see, though not ideal for some players

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