rmorris

[quote name='Toasted' post='221348' date='Jun 18 2008, 01:13 PM']If you can get a fair price here, it's better than ebay IMO. I sold my last G5 to a fella in the US for $350 + shipping.[/quote]

that was a good price depedig on the exchange rate at the time. I guess he really wanted one !

[quote name='Phaedrus' post='220521' date='Jun 17 2008, 12:28 PM']I'm wondering what chorus pedals folk on here like.

Do regular chorus pedals sold for guitar work okay with bass?

I thought the EBS UniChorus would be worth looking at, but one review I read said it was really noisy, with a lot of hiss.


Thanks,

Mark[/quote]


I have to give a mention to my Roktek Chorus Pedal.
Cheap fx I know but it works for me on bass for a bit of a Peter Hook sound on a budget.
Tried Boss etc but they sounded more 'washed out' which I didn't get with the Roktek - Depth between half and full / Rate barely above minimum ( unless wanting that 'underwater' sound ) / Tone at Max - with a plectrum...
Also good after a Boss OC-2 Octaver to smooth the edges.

[quote name='cheddatom' post='221363' date='Jun 18 2008, 01:31 PM']Obviously. I would never record with just one pedal though, so a DI box for the desk, and a blend pot for the pedal to go through my amps would have been nice. I suppose I could just mix the two outputs with something else.[/quote]

Indeed - always good to be able to have blend control rather than needing external mixer etc where you'd rather not have to bother and want to keep the gear level / setup hassle down.
Would be good to have all options - pure effect / effect-dry blend / buffered dry signal.

But I guess it all comes down to cost / target price.
Blend / mix controls are not that easy to engineer - well they sort of are but it takes a fair few components to do it 'properly' - and if you want 'good' components then the cost can become significant when you consider that a raw component cost probably ends up at retail at something like x4 the cost to the manufacturer.

thanks for the feedback on this people.
I've had a look at the bank balance and think I'll have to sell it although it can be a lot of fun.
Pondering whether to put it up in the sale section here or go straight to ebay / ebid .

I guess I'm looking at £s somewhere between a Boss SYB thingy and an AKAI Deep Impact so I'll do some research.

[quote name='cheddatom' post='221297' date='Jun 18 2008, 12:18 PM']Why two outputs instead of a blend pot? It will annoy some and please others I guess.[/quote]

a buffered dry output is pretty handy for recording - saves a bit of messing around with more cables / boxes.

[quote name='xgsjx' post='220353' date='Jun 17 2008, 08:23 AM']This is actually not true. What you may have experienced is the pickhand of the G*****st hitting one of the pots on the said instrument, thus causing what may sound like a temporary reduction in noise. I heard this phenomenon last night & had to investigate it. [/quote]

yeah - that's probably it :-)

there are different ways to define the power output in Watts so the 'Wattage' is nominal only.
For a given amplifier the sound level you actually get depends on the speaker cab(s) efficiency ( SPL / Watt ) and the impedance characteristic - the 4 ohm etc rating is nominal and will vary over frequency and interacts with the amp.
And, of course, how clean ( or not ) you want the sound to be.
But in general I'd agree that a typical rating of 150 - 300 Watts should be plenty. How loud can the drums be ? :-)

And if drums are being amplified a lot then you'll need to go through the PA too - You're not going to be able to balance a good on-stage sound and get a good out front sound with just the amp.
And think of your hearing too...

btw I heard a rumour that guitarists can turn down the volume on their amps although I'm not sure it's true ;->

[quote name='Silent Fly' post='219277' date='Jun 15 2008, 04:26 PM']I think Toasted answered to this [/quote]

well sort of. I was just thinking in more detail given that the impedance vector will affect freq. / phase response .

And I was wondering if a trimpot or similar to vary the impedance would be of significant benefit.

I understand that you might not want to say but I'm wondering if you've added only resistive impedance or also inductive impedance to more closely model a Hi-Z pickup ?

[quote name='bremen' post='218566' date='Jun 13 2008, 09:20 PM']Also don't worry about having to play at absolute zero to keep the cable's resistance down.[/quote]

yeah - it's hard seeing the frets through the liquid nitrogen and the strings might become a little brittle ?

sorry - obviously I haven't got the hang of the 'quoting' mechanism here yet.

heres a nice bit about clipping on the peavey site

[url="http://www.peavey.com/support/technotes/concepts/clippingrevisited.cfm"]http://www.peavey.com/support/technotes/co...ngrevisited.cfm[/url]
[/quote]


nice peavey link.

worth saying that not all solid state front ends distort the same way depending on the circuitry eg. op amp ( iintegrated or discrete ) with negative feedback or open loop FET transistor etc.

re: "I think the difference you'll get in tone if you increase it past the clip level is a bit of digital distortion, which to 99.99% of folk sounds crap. "

Why digital distortion ? We are talking solid state (opamp and / or transistors ) here aren't we so it would be 'solid state' analogue distortion.

Sold. Nice. Thanks.

Anyone have opinion on this Synth Bass / Envelope Follower ?
I have one and thinking of selling it - but would be good to hear opinions as I haven't tried Akai Deep Impact etc.
Cheers.

[quote name='BassManKev' post='136885' date='Feb 8 2008, 11:20 PM']theres on for sale at my local music buy sell place

not great cosmetics, wood is pretty worn and dinged in places, but still looks nice, with the thru neck style body, but with a bolt on neck. voume knob missing. its the active 80's one with the precision pickup with the switch for series/parallel, and the active passive switch. it plays really well, great punchy tone, but i didnt get chance to try it in active mode, daft bugger didnt have any 9v batteries to put in it! (it takes two, which suprises me as it only has one active eq knob, boost n cuts bass and treble at the same time, in additon to a passive tone knob)

they are askin for £150, which seems to be above the average costs iv found on the net, but the guy doesnt seem to wanna go down much. opinions?? i think a few guys have one on here[/quote]

fine basses - I have a modified 1A , a black 1 , and a later fretless ( different pickup / bridge ).
but from your description £150 is too much I reckon.
I'm guessing from what you wrote that it's pretty much a buy/sell place ie they don't pay a lot of attention to the playability setup etc. ?
Otherwise I reckon they'd have sorted the issing knob ?
Depends if you're happy to look at that yourself but if it needs a fret dress - quite likely given the vintage depending on your playing style - that's not cheap.
Against that it is a retail situation so not likely to be as good a price as a private sale.
From the description / problems I'd say £110ish with a (cheap) set of strings thrown in, guessing that it hasn't been restrung in the shop.

Other - Westone Thunder 1A natural wood finish.
But now pickups / electronics replaced with EMG P pickup + electronics.
Wearing Warwick Reds 45-105 atm. Okay for plectrum stuff but not so good for fingerstyle.

have reds on one bass.

okayish but a bit rough sounding / feeling.

okay bashing along with band in practice but did't come out well on recording.

this site has audio clips for strings + everything else - pickups / effects...

[url="http://basstasters.com/"]http://basstasters.com/[/url]

[quote name='steve-soar' post='214560' date='Jun 7 2008, 07:21 PM']I use DR Hi Beams and Lo Riders, I find the Hi Beams to be very supple and the Lo Riders are good for hittin' hard.
They last for ever.
A person of your calibre should have no problem following the wiring diagram.
DR Hi Beams but get them from the States, Mymusicstuff, I think, ebay shop.[/quote]

Sorry - I meant DR rather than D'addario for round core ( vs hex core ). Although for all I know D'addario may do them as well.
DR Hi-Beam = Round Core
DR Lo-Riders = Hex core
which tallies with opinions on these strings above.

[quote name='bubinga5' post='165141' date='Mar 28 2008, 12:57 PM']Hey people, just a quick couple of questions. I am going to replace the Seymor Duncans in my Jazz, for Nordstrand split coils. Can anyone tell me if this an easy thing to do. What wiring is involved? Im quite handy with a soldering iron!!
Secondly im experimenting with different strings and im looking for a string that is little easier to bend, lighter, and not so tight on the bass. Does thy look for different gauges????
i guess im looking for a more supple string..

Thanks in advance...[/quote]

All other things being equal a string based on a round core rather than a hexagonal core will feel more supple at the same guage.

I think D'addario amongst others offer round core and I think that Newtone strings in Derbyshire would be helpful as they offer their strings i both core types. Weblink below.

[url="http://www.newtonestrings.com/bass_page.htm"]http://www.newtonestrings.com/bass_page.htm[/url]

I can recommend this place for scratchplates as required - I recently got a guitar scratchplate copied there.

[url="http://tmtmusic.co.uk/home.htm"]http://tmtmusic.co.uk/home.htm[/url]
[url="http://tmtmusic.co.uk/new_page_1.htm"]http://tmtmusic.co.uk/new_page_1.htm[/url]

I thought this PSW thread on DI bass would be of interest here:

[url="http://recforums.prosoundweb.com/index.php/mv/msg/22821/0/0/0/"]http://recforums.prosoundweb.com/index.php...sg/22821/0/0/0/[/url]

[quote name='Welshbassist' post='201829' date='May 18 2008, 11:16 PM']Looks like it's designed for style more than substance! I find that low power bass amps are a waste of money, you NEED at least a hundred watts to reproduce the low end! There might be amps that defy this rule, but this is what I've experienced.[/quote]

seems like a lot of wood in front of the speaker ?

forgot photo:

[attachment=9352:IM000258.JPG]