Manton Customs

4 hours ago, basexperience said:

Another update - THE BASS IS BACK! Arrived very early at 8am yesterday, and after a little time to warm up in the house and a couple of setup tweaks for relief and action, this bass is now 100% where I want it. Low, low action, fast to play, great tone, and looks amazing.

 

Robin has done a great job of getting the finish right - you have to look really closely to tell it's had work done to it at all - the neck binding in particular is a lovely piece of work, blending back into the original around the headstock.

 

Truss rod now works in the normal direction, with a seriously long key available (nice one!), the carbon rods are in there doing their job, and the whole bass just feels so much better. Thanks @Manton Customs!!

 

If anyone would like to see some pics of the completed article on here, let me know. Cost was seriously reasonable considering what's been done here - the bass overall cost to me is still a lot less than a new one, and I can have confidence that it won't need work like that again.

 

It really is a stunning instrument.

Thank you very much, glad you’re enjoying the bass! 😁 

3 hours ago, basexperience said:

I can recommend @Manton Customs - Robin just did an amazing job on my Maruszczyk Elwood 5a Absolution, truss rod replacement for the "soviet era" rod in there after it gave up (seriously, it's not a good design) - also put carbon rods in. Sourced, aged and replaced binding for the board which looks excellent. Now playing so nicely!

 

There's a thread for the work over here: 

 

Much appreciated, thank you! 😃 

Curved channel, straight rod, some compression around the anchor. 😃 

18 hours ago, Woodinblack said:

 

Not so good for me - I looked at their map, I am not sure if I am in their range, if I am I am right on the edge!

They deliver outside that range too, but just charge a bit more at £99 plus vat. Obviously a lot more than a standard courier at that price, but worth it if it’s a vintage or valuable instrument.

Routing

Carbon, truss rod and truss rod filler strip in

39 minutes ago, Woodinblack said:

Am I missing the obvious that the replacement truss rod is bigger than the original? Did the original not go all the way or have you lengthened the neck?!

The original rod was on the short side yes, the new one is longer and will extend further in the neck. A truss rod doesn’t have to be the full length of the neck, but close to it is good.

Sure, will post some pics as I go 😃 

Great to see the finished bass! Hope you have plenty of fun with it

You’ve got two options-

1 - Strip the dye again, this time use a water based dye to reapply. This shouldn’t have the same problem as the base of the dye is different to the base of your oil top coat.

2 - Develop your spray skills and get a few cans of clear nitrocellulose. This would also work fine if you mist on the first couple of coats. It’s easier than it seems, especially if you go for a satin or matte. Obviously wear a mask if you do this.

Option one may be tricky as the wood has been previously oiled, which can sink in to the pores a bit. This will give a blotchy result if you don’t remove it all throughly.

With either option it’s important to test your finishing procedure (all steps) first on a piece of scrap. It is always worth doing this and will save a lot of time in the long run.

Unless you have dedicated spray room and equipment, you probably won’t find a suitable Poly. This would be done with a 2k clear with tint added to it.
 

You should be able to spray Nitro over the top of the existing finish, but it depends what type of Poly it was sprayed with in the first place. People use the word for a lot of different finishes. If it was a catalysed 2k finish as is used on mass produced guitars then you should be fine. You can spray tinted nitro over it after first sanding it with 600 grit to give the finish a key. Also make sure you throughly wipe down and degrease the surface first. Then once your tint is sprayed, follow up with clear nitro to protect the tint. You’ll need enough clear to be able to completely level sand and buff afterwards without breaking through into your tinted coats… So it’s not a 5 minute job!

Nitro over the type of Poly(ester) you usually find on bodies works well and is what the majority of the new Fender nitro finishes are.

If you do go ahead…spraying a tinted finish takes practice to get it even. So maybe do some practice goes on card first.

That looks a lot like Utera basses logo. Guessing Hipshot made them some with their logo on perhaps? 

I’d try lifting it out first which often works. Using a scalpel I would score around any areas of the nut which may have finish joining (edges and headstock side). Also pay special attention to scoring the edge where the repair was. Typically rosewood fender necks have the nut installed after finish, so should be reasonably safe, but you can’t be too careful! Then I would get some pincers/fret pullers on it. Grip it from above and try to wiggle it towards the headstock and back (towards fretboard). Usually there isn’t much glue holding them in place and it isn’t very resistant to flexing/movement.

If that doesn’t work you’ll need to collapse the nut as mentioned above and remove it in pieces using whatever tools you’re comfortable with…obviously don’t tap or put pressure towards either bass or treble direction or you’ll pop the binding off. Here’s one of my videos (around 2:00) where I did something similar on a neck without binding. As you have binding at the edges you won’t be able to extend the slot used to collapse the nut all the way down, but it should still be enough. 
 

Obviously fitting the new nut is a little

more challenging too, as you’ll want it to drop in from above and fit nice and tightly.

7 hours ago, Ralf1e said:

Thank you so much for this. I to am in the process of de-freting in my Bitza project and followed your advice as regards the plasticard.

Not yet finished but I am pleased with what I see so far

Used .5mm plasticard as the previous fret tangs were about that.

Glad it’s going well…good luck with the rest of the project 😃 

Thank you @Buddster. It was great to see you and you’re family. I’m so pleased the bass has got a lovely home. Hope you have fun with it 😃 

2 hours ago, Buddster said:

I tried it. I liked it. I still couldn't afford it 😔 

 

 

It was very playable, thanks for the pleasure of letting me play it. 

You’re welcome, glad you enjoyed it 😃 

If anyone is in the Bristol area this weekend and would like to try this bass out, I’m bringing it to my stand at the Bristol Guitar Show which is at Ashton Gate Stadium tomorrow (Sunday)

I’ve done quite a few oak necks now, it’s a great choice if you use a suitable board to start with (the same as any wood). If you wanted either a high gloss finish, or for it to feel exactly like a Maple neck then you might want to grain fill. However I prefer a more natural feel without grainfiller. But it’s not too noticeable either way. The grain is less pronounced than wenge which is frequently used with minimal finish.

I built the bass below a few years back and it is a bit of a celebration of Oak…it is all English Oak -  burr oak wings, 1/4/ sawn 3 piece neck, bog oak fretboard. Weight was a approx 6lb.
 

On 01/04/2023 at 18:45, snorkie635 said:

Very fine example sir. It WILL go. Best of luck.

Thank you! Yep it’s nice and original

15 hours ago, moley6knipe said:

My YOB bass. None more 70s really. Microtilt, white blocks, black scratchplate and natural ash body. This is beautiful, and if I find the money 😆 I’ll be in touch.

Exactly…The ultimate 70s jazz! Thank you 😃 

Still available currently.

11 hours ago, thestick said:

🤪. I want! Sadly checked under the mattress and just dust ☹️

lovely looking beast indeed 👍

 😆 thank you 

1 hour ago, Burns-bass said:

 

Personally, I’d consider a refret and refinish and the neck would be as good as new.

Yes, if you want a consistent professional look then the frets have to come out first so that the fretboard can be properly stripped and sanded. Then refret and respray.

As much as I love an oil finish (and I really do!), I wouldn’t use one for this. It wouldn’t be the right look and lacquer/poly would be more durable to keep the fretboard looking good long term. I lacquer the maple boards of my builds and restorations even if they’re getting oil on the back of the neck.

48 minutes ago, nick_gontarski said:

Marcus Miller 😱

Yep, it does that sound very well too!

5 hours ago, Undertone said:

is the finish original please?  Thanks

Yes

2 hours ago, King Tut said:

me! Weight pls?

Approx 5 kg/ 11lb