Twincam

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115807085347?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=3EBG3m-QQAW&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Lr5GXN8gT0-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

8 hours ago, Beedster said:

Do I detect a subtle but nonetheless discernible subtext of growing affection for our old friend here folks….?

Yes we have went through the hate and denial period. We have now reached the acceptance stage 😄

You could add a cheap mic pre that sends out line level. 

I'm using an art v3 mic pre into a powered monitor that expects line level. For something so cheap I really like it. Upgraded valve. 

I really like the look of these and the ultra thin neck sounds appealing. Yeah I'm liking the design alot.

Think it sounds really good from the demos, reviews.

8 hours ago, Waddo Soqable said:

Tbh if you find some oddments of timber knocking about, you could simply make your own tribute version, I've got some pukka grubby old slot headed screws if that helps 😁

Think I have my grandads old jar of slot head screws somewhere. 

But for added mojo I would use old hand made blacksmiths nails.

What could possibly go wrong when I make a 6 string bass using high tension flatwounds. 

I have a luthier mate who makes custom specials, says he can help me out, he has a 7 string neck I can have for 300 pounds, he paid 50 pounds, for my 6 string big finger conversion. And a nut he made himself with a mitre. Something about being touch sensitive in the first position, i think that means first fret only. And not anywhere else. I already have an artec hot rail pickup. Scale length 31.1" 

When I make it I want serious buyers only no test pilots or dreamers. Because when they hear it through my luthier mates big rig! A Carlsbro cobra 90w combo. They will know authority and so called heft.

(Actual comment about his big rig, from one of his ebay ads years ago)

So much entertainment over the years.

Nah think I will pass. The thought was blink of an eye fleeting 😄 

16 minutes ago, lamp said:

Yup - I found exactly the same a few mins ago myself!

I find it odd the shop wouldn't have verified it themselves. I've pinged them an email asking if any recollection how they dated it, or if they did (I doubt they'll remember, to be fair - but worth a try).

Sent you a pm with possible date. See what you think. 

1 minute ago, lamp said:

Honestly, whilst its a bit frustrating to find out I was mis-sold in the first place (wonder if I have any recourse 5 years on?), I massively appreciate the fact that there are members here knowledgeable enough to figure things like that out. Uncertain as to whether I re-price at this stage, given I paid £2k five years ago, but open to any sensible offers. Remains a fantastic playing and sounding bass.

I have found this bass from 2017 on I believe a US auction site

https://entertainment.ha.com/itm/musical-instruments/bass-guitars/1980-fender-precision-bass-candy-apple-red-electric-bass-guitar-serial-v029065/a/7168-85095.s

Description is as you bought it. So I think the wrong info was passed down and no one noticed. 

3 minutes ago, alittlebitrobot said:

Those neck pocket screws 🤨 Jens Ritter eat your heart out

I like the think the little one at the end is for tilt adjustment haha. 

One thing though, that neck must be secure! 

Just now, lamp said:

I agree - had amended the title of the thread prior to even popping the neck off, as I don't want to mis-sell anything - also had a look around whilst googling the serial and came to same conclusion: not reliable enough to date.  I'm going to contact Wunjo (I know they remember the bass, as they mention it every time I go in!), they may have a bit more info on how they dated it, even if incorrectly.

 

Nevertheless, what we do appear have here is a great (apparently) Corona '62 RI, and seems, assembled by a top builder. And still for sale

 

Thx for the researching - better to know than not!

It's still a fantastic bass! And I love the patina. It has the look.

Which is why I looked at it so closely.

Link to an 83 fullerton reissue example. Note the neck pocket and the headstock decal and end of fingerboard difference. 

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/fender-fullerton-1983-‘62-reissue-p-bass.1593543/

1 minute ago, lamp said:

Curiosity got the better of me 😄 - no clearer to me from popping the neck off, anyone with deeper knowledge able to demystify this one?

 

Searching the serial online reveals everything from 1980, to custom shop, to 82 or 88 onwards.

You can't search for these serials. I've had a look on the talk bass forum. Which have a bit of detail on these.

But the serial is not fullerton reissues. As they ended V016 yours being v029 puts it way out.

And the pics on the headstock there confirms the neck is not a fullerton reissue as the decal and the end of the fingerboard is wrong. 

Corona made a 62 reissue vintage series. Which I believe this is. 

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/fullerton-era-fender-precision-jazz-reissue-info-and-photos.894321/

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314515383651?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Frv4faVIRkW&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Lr5GXN8gT0-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I half thought about buying this just to see if can make it playable. Then came to my senses.

Wonder if it ever was played. Possibly wear to frets? 

I think the neck and serial suggest a later 80s or even early 90s. Corona.

It's certainly not a fullerton neck or serial.

I think your sale chances would improve if the actual bass model, year identified. 

Hi I was reading about these recently. And I thought the fullerton reissues had serial numbers up to v016000???

And the fender decal is in the wrong area. For the fullerton reissues. The fender decal has the placement past the string button. 

Apologies if I'm wrong. But I believe this is a later Corona vintage reissue. 

You can only date these by removing the neck. 

15 hours ago, kodiakblair said:

How does a T-40 sound exactly ?

 

 

Clack, clack, click, click, twang, pop. 

Un amped slap, of course. 😆

Boiled linseed works well. Although can take a few applications. And it's not that durable. Does turn a nice vintage colour with sunlight. 

May not be suitable alone on a bass that's going to be heavily gigged. But if used with something over the top it should work nicely. 

Maybe test any 2 products on a small hidden area first. Neck heal or neck pocket. 

I like those yamaha pickups. And I like the yamaha stock circuits, some people have said they were noisy, when boosted. 

But they sound fantastic! 

I'm not sure what the emgs would bring. But if a good deal try them in either bass. 

Would be cool if you made some isolated bass recordings before and after we could hear. If you go ahead. 

5 hours ago, BassAdder60 said:

I’ve got Fender Hi Mass bridges on my PBass basses which I mostly like but …,

 

On one bass the G string has a tiny vibrating tone that appears to be caused by the HiMass bridge 

This isn’t just normal string tone but something in addition to the string ringing. I think it might be the saddle itself but I’m not sure ?

 

Anyway I’ve ordered the Gotoh 201B-4 to try as it looks like the saddles are better and still in keeping with the HiMass style.

 

Any users of Gotoh and opinions ??

 

Please don’t suggest option C ie every other kind of alternative as I know they exist as does the basic bent plate style that were removed as the grub screws would always work loose. 
 

Im curious if the Gotoh is decent 

Does it ring on open note or fretted? If only on the open, it could actually be the nut slot. 

Also is it the string itself?

String break angle if saddle is very low.

Are the grub screws even and making good contact with the

bottom of the plate. 

Is the string sitting on the saddle nicely. Push down on the string before the saddle then retune. 

Just some thoughts. 

Yes gotah are good. 

Have to agree with others. Looks a little bit like a t40. But vastly different specs to make it actually sound like one. 

If they had copied the original pickups and put them in the exact locations. With the same copied electrical circuit. That would have been cool! 

Just now, Downunderwonder said:

And .36mm is ambitious on a budget instrument if you ask me.

As someone who maybe not so much now, but used to work on instruments.

There has not been a bass guitar, that assuming had a working truss rod and not a warped neck. That I couldn't get to play well. 

Level the frets, set nut height, relief, then bridge height. Adding neck shim if really necessary.

On 09/05/2023 at 13:42, Viperpunk said:

 

I am assuming it was supposed to be 0.010 to 0.015 of an inch, as all business card type of paper I have currently is  0.29 mm which is 0.012 of an inch according to my callipers. I still have a lot less than that. In fact it is exactly 0.16 mm ( 0.006 of an inch ) at the moment. I am satified for the time being though.

0.006 is OK. 

When you have a very straight neck though you sometimes have to adjust in different seasons. Or environments.

If I've worked on a bass for someone or even setting up my own, I aim for 0.009. Maybe to 0.007.

Fender specs are 0.010 to 0.015.

Sadowsky 0.007.

Some boutique makers as low as 0.004.

For very low levels off relief. Nut height is critical. If too low you get horrible back clanking when fretting higher notes past the 12 fret. 

On 09/05/2023 at 05:41, Downunderwonder said:

.15 of an inch is over 3.6mm which is a bit ott if you ask me and way thicker than an business card!

Indeed i meant 0.015

Funny as I knew reading it back I should edit. But assumed as referenced a business card then it would be OK. 

If its local only. And today. And has to be new. 

Means I have limited local stores, 1 in 8 miles and another 4 in approx 33 to 40 miles. 

Need a slim neck.

So likely will have to be a squier jazz bass. 

Or an ibanez sr300.

If rules are slightly relaxed to a used bass. But local and can get it today. 

That opens more options.