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bassmayhem

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Posts posted by bassmayhem

  1. [quote name='molan' timestamp='1419632848' post='2641536']
    We've just ordered an H115 for demo purposes.

    N.B. This cab only comes with the cloth front at the moment. Metal grille versions available later in the year.
    [/quote]
    The cloth is glued on a metal grille, so it is strong AND good looking... ;)

  2. Here is my Mini board, a PedalTrain Mini with the PedalTrain Volto, chargable power supply, underneath. It can run a whole rour hour gig night with ordinary 9 Volt pedals. I tried it with my Eventide H9 once and one time with the Line 6 Relay G50, but that was too much to ask for. Don't do...! Anywa, this is how it looks today...

    [IMG]http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd169/bassmayhem/Mini_zps89019cf6.jpg[/IMG]
    If the battery goes dry it is possible to play while loading. (Through a USB cable, use the telephone charger if yo forget the original at home...)

  3. A little X-mas teaser, more pics:

    The bridge end...


    The head end...


    Pups, bridge and such...


    Along the back of the neck...


    Some loose ends... (Also my "play the Stick on the lap stick"...)


    The Roland units...


    The Roland units again...


    The bag and the wrench...


    The tripod, just like in [i]War of the Worlds[/i]...

    Have yourself a mery little Stick-mas... :D :D :D

  4. Well, after a year with my Stick, after a 28 year hiatus, I realise I haven't got time enough to get into playing it again. Therefore I sell my 10-string MIDI equipped rosewood Stick.





    It has the PASV4 pickup. In the package is a Roland MIDI converter and a Roland synth module. The pickup is brand new, since the old one broke down. Both pickups in the package. The old one can be made to function, maybe not all switching possibilities. A nice original gigbag, all cables needed, some spare strings and a stand comes in the package. Since the first question seems to be: Does the MIDI pickup work? Answer is: Yes! Everything works except the old pickup mentioned. The instrument is playable from day one, analog or digital.

    The instrument is in very good condition, as all the extra goodies except the old pup that someone with skills can make something of. The Stick looks twisted in the second picture, but that is just "Samsung S3 distortion".





    More pic's on demand. Just send me your email address...

    The Stick is in Sweden and can be sent at the buyer's expense.
    Price (plus shipping): $2660 US, £1700, 20000 SEK or give me an offer I can't refuse. No trade! (No horse head in my bed and such, though...) :lol:

  5. Please, make clear this is no American made G&L JB2 in the headline. I am selling a real G&L JB here in Sweden and get stupid questions why mine is so expensive compared to "another one on BassChat"...

  6. What makes the Lakie 55's outstanding is their very familiar feel, how they fit your hands, how they hang on your body. And - first of all - the 19 mm string spacing at the bridge making it very familiar if you are used to an old J, P or MM. Most other five strings have this narrow cramped spacing "not to make the neck uncomfortable". Heck, that's what make them uncomfortable. You feel immediately at home on a Lakie if you are a Fender type player. That's the thing. Nice review, Bubinga5!

  7. [quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1416446301' post='2610390']
    Thanks for making me want both now :lol:

    How do you find the bottom end between the H115 (is that the newer smaller cabs or the older bigger ones?) and the 1126?
    I don't want a cab that's all mids and not enough bottom and requires a lot of EQ to sound "balanced".
    [/quote]
    A hard nut to crack, since I haven't got an old H115 or a 1126, just new (small) H115 and 2126. I'd say there is enough bottom in any of them but you get nicer mids with the 1126 or 2126. But that's my personal opinion. I could use any of them single woofer cabs as stand alone and still have sufficient power for an ordinary gig, with a twin woofer cab or two singles, well, Geronimo!!! And - I nearly never use eq. Maybe to cut some lows when necessary, which was NEVER the case with my old Eden D112XLT cabs...

  8. mcnach,

    I have a STL 900 and the 2126, the big brother to the 1126, as well as two H115's. Two 1126 cabs will NOT be percieved as "not as loud". They are more than enough powerful. Comparing the 1126 and H115, well, the 1126 has a more complex and full midrange, unbeatable for fretless bass. The H115 is more conventional and traditional sounding, but with a full and round low end. Definitely to order with a tweeter! I like them both.

  9. We did a lightweight amp comparison with some odd "heavyweight champions" among them at the TKS facility two weeks ago. One of the conventional amps was a nice WalkAbout. We used a TKS H115 as reference speaker. The amps we checked were:

    - GK MB Fusion 500
    - Genz Benz Streamliner 900
    - Aguilar TH500
    - Tecamp Puma 900
    - EBS Reidmar
    - GK MB 200
    - Genz Benz ShuttleMax 12.0
    - TC Electronic RH 450 or 750, don't remember which...
    Also these of more conventional weight:
    - Mesa WalkAbout
    - Mesa Carbine M3
    - Euphonic Audio iAmp 800
    - EBS Classic 500

    The favourite lightweight amp was the Streamliner 900, mostly for its very tubelike conventional tone, followed by the MB Fusion and TH500, but of different reasons.
    The two Mesa amps were the favourites among the heavier ones, M3 the cleaner and WA the meaner.

    My impression of the WA through the TKS H115 was that it sounded very good; the amp is rather easy to overdrive, but it overdrives very, very nice. Don't forget that the WA isn't that muscular in 8 ohms. Maybe this amp manage to play a bit cleaner when driving 4 ohms load. Comparing the WA and M3, the M3 was cleaner and more alike the STL 900 in tonal charachter. But - the WA into a beefy 115 sounded very... saucy and juicy, if you got my point. Wateroftyne has a real nice setup: two small 112's giving the amp the opportunity to work in 4 ohms. If I was to choose, I'd probably do like him. Or get two H115's like I have... B)

  10. [quote name='Marc S' timestamp='1416328520' post='2609102']
    Something a bit different!
    Nice to see old basses surviving and still being used

    I saw a couple of Hagstroms - if my memory serves me - but don't think I ever saw one like this
    What a great friend :)

    Thanks for posting
    [/quote]
    Yes, most of the old Hagström instruments were kinda Mickey Mouse-ish. This was the first real solid body bass before the fantastic Super Swede bass. (The original name was just DeLuxe, but a British magazine called it Super Swede, hence the change of name...) :D
    And - my friend is a gem. A gem in human shape! :happy:

  11. Done!

    The whole bass...

    The body...

    The head...

    Southwards...

    Double strap buttons - perfect for parking the bass...

    The only thing not working is the tone control, be it the pot or the capacitor.
    Probably change to a Stellartone ToneStyler. I'll change the disgusting plastic nut (original) to a bone or graphite nut too.
    Yes, the pups are not exactly parallel. The neck pickup is slightly off axis. (Original Hagström vintage work...) Maybe I'll change them to
    some black pups when I add the ToneStyler, just to make it look nicer. It sounds really good, though. Very snappy, despite the all mahogany design.
    All metal parts except the tuning pegs are changed. Then just cleaning, polishing, oiling, wax on - wax off...

  12. [quote name='Meddle' timestamp='1416139771' post='2607214']
    That might be the key here. I inferred OP had a Jazz bass for some reason. The positioning of the bridge pickup on Jazz basses seems to accentuate certain harmonics, though I'm not sure about the physics behind it other than that the amplitude of the string is attenuated as you get closer to the bridge...
    [/quote]

    The closer you get to the end of the string, the more harmonics can be detected, as long as the string vibrates enough. Over a P-pup the amplitude (of the fundamental) is so big that it drowns a lit of the overtones more or less. Another thing to do if you don't want to carve up a P-bass: install a piezo bridge. That may do the trick, but you will also get all the mechanical sounds amplified...

  13. I swapped my Spirocore for Weich a week ago. The "Like Factor" is very high.

    What is the main difference to Spiro Core? (Remember, this is my own subjective conclusion...)
    - First, they are softer to the fingers.
    - They sound a tad weaker, but have a tone that is a little "hammock shaped and snappier".
    - Also, I could bow them basically without rosin, only [i]Hans Andersson's Liquid Rosin[/i] impregnated in the horsehair, none on the strings.
    - Another difference is that they sound better amplified in my "somewhat boomy rig" when I run the Realist straight in.

    I use a Streamliner 900, that itself is very low freq friendly. The cab I used was not the perfect cab for an acoustic upright: my TKS H115 with tweeter, a cab that is very efficient in the low register. Then, the Realist itself enhances the lows quite a bit. I had to tweak the eq a lot to find a useful tone. When I used my EBS MicroBass II it was a major difference. I connected it to the amp's Aux In and bypassed the tube preamp. Night and day! Well, back to the strings...

    No downside? Well, they took some days to settle properly, since the core is synthetic they stretch a bit, but that is just to be expected.
    I really liked the power of the SpiroCore, but the tone and feel of the Weich is so nice, even if they have a bit lesser volume they are winners.

    There is a thing to notice: in the Pirastro website they state the Weich strings (and maybe the whole EP series, I didn't check) are only available in 3/4 scale.
    I contacted them about that and they answered: The set works for both 3/4 and 4/4 basses. Mine is a 4/4 bass with 110 cm (43,3") scale, and they fit perfect.



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