Chienmortbb

10 hours ago, Nebadon2000 said:

It seems like you took your own advice  based on reception of Amps you designed/engineered 

I would go for one;  if it has a Tube stuck in the middle and not a Digital Chip😀

Any particular Tube? PVC waste? 15mm Copper?

On 15/09/2020 at 22:38, Woodinblack said:

Indeed, and I was referring to distortion in amplifiers not in specific bass amplifiers, as a clarification on classes.

There are many hifi amps run as Class A to a reasonable power, and many small class A guitar amps, certainly in the 5W group, such as the small fenders. I have played a 5w bass amp (made by a friend). Personally I think 5w is the perfect size for a guitar amp, the bass amp was too underpowered to work well though. I note there are many people on this thread (and the valve amp thread) that seem to rate low powered valve amps, I suspect they are A/B like the smaller ashdown.

Yes thanks, but cheers for asking.

I didn't notice anyone on here had suggested using a class C amplifier for bass. Maybe for radio!

 

Anyone got a modeled patch for Vestigal Sideband distortion?

I put elioxirs on my Washburn Jumbo and that put me off. I found they did noy play well  much like myself) I might give them a whirl next time though.

On 13/09/2020 at 13:37, Woodinblack said:

Actually slightly better!

It does sound good actually, looks like it would be all clean and hifi sounding, but it isn't, those 'single coils' are humbuckers and they sound great. All the way up to the 26th fret.

26th fret? Busted you are really a guitard.

On 15/09/2020 at 08:59, Muzz said:

I'd say the amp is only half the story in a rig providing what we're looking for (and that can be many different things), some amps work better with some cabs, and vice versa. I've had a lot of amps and cabs (probably 20 amps, and maybe a dozen cabs), and settled on what I like. I loved the Magellan through three Berg 112s, but they totalled 96lbs, which wasn't practical for me, and I've ended up with very efficient, light cabs (BF, and I've had a few of those, too), and I've also ended up with a Walkabout, because I like the sound it makes. As far as volume is concerned, again, the cabs are a huge part of that; the Walkabout's nominally 300w (possibly 400 into 2.67 ohms), and through one or two BF cabs it's deafeningly loud - I used it in an ear-bleedingly loud (yes, I have ACS earplugs) rock band (2 x 100w Marshall 412 guitarists) into one 4 ohm BF cab (a Super Twin), and it never broke a sweat. When we played bigger clubs, I took two cabs along, but it was just overkill, because the PA did all the heavy lifting anyway. It looked good, though...

FWIW, I've had Class ABs that I thought didn't thud properly at high volumes, and Class Ds, too (oddly, the Tonehammer 500 I thought was really anaemic, though it's a very popular amp), but then again I've used in-ears which didn't half thud, and they're tiiiiny... 😁

And of course the steel-spined valve amp chaps are rolling their eyes at this hair-splitting between AB and D, because of course nothing beats tubes... 😉

Interesting. THe TH500 uses the ICEPower 250ASX2 module wheras most bass amp manufacturersuse the 125ASX2 for their 500W amps. The main difference is that the 250ASX2 can deliver 500 watts into 8 or 4 ohm wheras the 125ASX2 gives approx 250 into 8 ohms and 500 into 4 ohms.

The Rode looks like a very good mic. The reason I suggested the Sontronics is that is hase switchable responses, making is a more all round performer.

20 hours ago, EBS_freak said:

Most of this comes down to one commonly used, particular model of power amp.

Go use some Powersoft amps and then state that class D is lacking.

You are probably refering to ICEPower and if so that is an unfair jibe. The real problem is manufacturers overstating the power output of various ICEPower modules.

11 minutes ago, fretmeister said:

I'm going to be recording some vocals at home as my old band is recording all the tunes we wrote over 10 years or so.

I have a couple of mics, but they are my live mics rather than recording / studio.

I've got a budget of maybe £500 to include a preamp if necessary.

 

Any recommendations?

Look at the Sontronics range I use their Solo dynamic mic on stage but would go for the ST3-X. http://sontronics.com/stc3xpack.htm 

I think you have hit the nail on th head with Bose. Everything they do is heavily processed.

Slightly off piste but I needed new cans but could not afford two sets. My phone only has bluetooth unless I use an adaptor (I lost  is ages ago) so I needed bluetooth but I needed wired for practice. I chose the Panasonic RP-HTX90N and am very pleased. The sound is neutral but there is a bass boost when using bluetooth that helps when learning a song without soundding like you traped two 8x10s to your ears. Of course thery are a bit dearer than the Beyers  but they are capable of being driven well by portable devices, something that the Beyers at 80 ohms impedance might not.To go wired you just plug in a standard 3.5mm  cable and you are good to go.

The question is how long could you wear them? For health and safety reasons, all day really is not an option. Ignoring the possible hearing issues, the ear canal is designed to be open so ferquent breaks should be the order of the day.

3 hours ago, SpondonBassed said:

In actual fact, the reason for this topic is that the OP needs to be given a break from him.

By the way, I'm not anti.  I know he's a member here and I respect his skills and experience.  It's just his style of delivery that rankles.  It's not for everyone.

I suspect most of his business comes from the US as he always quotes prices in UD Dollars and they like that shouty fast inyaface type of delivery. I must admit it slightly rankles with me but his videos are good.

20 hours ago, Doctor J said:

Use Firefox in private mode as your browser and install the adblock plus plug-in. Don’t sign into anything google own unless you have to and, if you have to, restart your browser after you are done with them.

And use DuckDuckGo for searching then Google can't track you(tube).

So I got, and put on the Olympia Flats. They have been on for 10 days or so now and were used at a 4 hour rehearsal last Sunday.

Firstly the value for money is first class. Whether £16 OR £13 you cannot beat that.  The strings are made in Korea and each string is sealed in its own packet. On first look the A,D & G strings look fine but the E looks a little suspect. The wind is not as even as on the other 3 strings.

I put them on anyway and could not be sure whether the E was deader than the other strings but I reported it to the seller and got a new string by return. The following impressions are compared to the Fender (d'addario) flats on my Peavey Precision clone and the rounds that the Olympias replaced.

Tension, much closer to the rounds they replaced than the Fender flats. Nothing needed changing on the bass, action and relief spot on. I cannot really compare the two sets as the Fender's have been on several years but both the old Fender flats and the D'Addario Fender  Flats on the Peavey are higher tension and the E went off very quickly. Only time will tell with the Olympias.

I had read that there was a stickiness to these strings and at first I did not understand. Going up and down the fretboard felt no different, however after a while I did feel that there was a slight grab when finger plucking with my right hand. I am not sure whether this was just my imagination but it  seemed better once I had wiped the strings with an industrial wet wipe.

Tone. Definately brighter than I expected although the zing of a new set ofrounds was missing. Ten days on and a lot of playing does not seem to have dulled them at all. The only downside so far is the visually suspect E string. However the customer care fronm Advanced Music was first rate and I have had duff flats form Fender more than once.

I have not played Chromes or Cobalt flats as they are too expensive to just take a punt on but these Olympias seem fine and I will be replacing the strings on my Peavey with them.

As Phil says the amp topology is not the problem. TC were notorious for exaggerating their power output in a subtle way.They named the model after their “algorithm” that estimated the equivalent output power with their magic processing. Firstly it was not magic and secondly it was cheating in the same way as  say the sister brand Bugera “estimated” their class D amps at 2000 watts. 

Despite  this amps were not bad per se and I have one of the Bugera’s. 2000 watts it ain’t but it is bloody loud and probably outputting  700-800 watts. 
 

Secondly the position of the volume control is no indication of power output. Depending on the  output level of the bass, maximum output could be at 12 o’clock or even before.

The “ magic” in TC heads is a form of compression and the TC 500 is actually around 300-350 watts into 4 ohms if I remember correctly. 

19 hours ago, Frank Blank said:

Don’t you worry about any of that, the Bass Bashes are the very antithesis of all that old bollo. Your description of your playing is exactly how I’d describe mine and I have a gas at the Bashes.

Sounds like a good description of my playing too.

On 10/09/2020 at 19:29, Reggaebass said:

These are by far the best, I work for the Nhs and got a small pair off one of the podiatrists for my fingernails, they cut really clean, and stay sharp 

Do you have the make? They are like side cutters but some are £5 and useless, my Lindstroms are 40 years old and still sharp.

I found the EB Cobalt and the Rotos most to my taste. They both seemed to be bright enough but still have enough low end to enhance the subtle passages. The DRs in particular were not to my liking.

Incidently I was listening on my new Panasonic RPHTX90N headphones wired review to follow.

4 hours ago, agedhorse said:

I wouldn't recommend 600 watts RMS continuous through a Kappa 15LFA, not if you want a long service life. 

The "maximum rated power" for most manufacturers (including Eminence) is based on a 2 hour survival rate. My experience through testing of many drivers for calculating warranty exposure purposes suggests that a ~20% reduction minimum is necessary in order to increase this value to 200 hours. I typically use 25% unless testing shows otherwise.

Powering with 400-450 Watts (rms) is about ideal for that driver IME.

 

Yes the power rating is a thermal rating 25% would be my maximum.

I hate to be the one to say it but based on the comments at the press conference on Thursday, the maximum of 6 people for will be in place for weeks maybe months. I think that we are now looking at next April!

On 06/09/2020 at 11:46, Woodinblack said:

As an aside on that, the XAirs internal wifi, for years I heard the 'oh you shouldn't use the internal router it won't work' and thought it was daft because it always worked. Then one gig, it just didn't, it was an absolute nightmare as I would try and make changes and they would ping back, or just happen 20 seconds later, completely lost control of it. Just the number of people in the crowd with phones looking for wifi, nothing you can predict beforehand. I alway have a 5GHz minirouter with WPA (£10 from pc world, smaller than the psu) connected to the xair, and connect to it from that. No trouble since that. I also have an ethernet cable in my bag, because I like being able to cope with everything I can think about, although never needed it!

We had a wireless mic for the PA at the football club working on the 863-865MHz free band. Once 4G became commonplace, several or so phones close proximity made it useless. We bought a Channel 38 mic and a licence and have not had a problem since. 

I just bought some from Tayda. They take a couple of weeks to arrive but AVE a fair selection https://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/rotary-potentiometer.html?p=4

13 hours ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Not helped by the BBC always focusing on the changes or differences and not producing and updating a single, consistent guide.

Oh dear I have always avoided seeing Beeb bashing on Basschat.

OK I will guess £500 for the pair.

8 minutes ago, Beedster said:

The HH VS was my first bass amp in about '85, coupled with a Westone Thunder 1 and a cab that doesn't spiring to memory. Many happy memories. 

I sold a Westone Thunder 1A and an HH VS to someone about 15 years ago. Wish I still had the Thunder.

8 minutes ago, Reggaebass said:

Going by my first real set up , around 1979,  which was a HHic100s and 2x15 speakers , which I think I paid about £200 for second hand at the time, I’d say the Peavey rig would be between £400- £500 🙂

Back in the day I had an Orange staggered 4x12. Wimps that complain about 8x10s should have tried carting those around. They were the same style as the cab shown above. I also still have an HH VS Bassamp and an HH Bassamp 100, both working well.