samej

It's a 20 W 10 ohm resistor. It's just a cement thing with no heatsink. My rough calculations suggest that if the speaker is using 300W the resistor will produce about 0.006 W @ 1000Hz and 1.4 W @ 25 KHz. I've assumed the woofers impedance stays at 8 ohm. I have 2 tweeters in series with the resistor, and that is all parallel to the woofer. The tweeters are 1kohm @ 1 KHz and 60 ohm @ 25 KHz. I guess to achieve that power the cab as a whole will be being driven pretty hard. Certainly as a bass cab it shouldn't be an issue, but as a PA speaker it might, particularly with loud recorded music? Even still 1.4 W isn't much.... edit for resistor wattage correction

I'll try mounting it off some stripboard. It has no mounting holes on the resistor. I've now decided I don't think it will get very hot so it's more the mechanical aspect I guess. I'll try it for a while and see if it does get hot. Cheers

Hi, I'm building a cab with peizo tweeters, and it seems to be recommended to add a power resistor to protect some amps from the low impedance at very high frequencies. I presume that because the resistor is very low resistance compared to the tweeters high impedance at normal frequencies (where there is some power), that it doesn't get very hot and can be mounted, for example directly to the plywood with cable ties. Or is this a bad idea? Should i use a heat sink or mount it away from anything that might burn? If so any recommended method? On stripboard? I haven't really been able to find anything discussing this. Thanks

Also I really like the contemporary jazz trios and they often have amazing bassists. Saw the Bad Plus recently and Reid Anderson was superb. Also check out the Esbjorn Svensson Trio, and Brad Mehldau Trio. Might be worth trying to have a listen on youtube / spotify before you splash the cash though, they are all quite different.

Avishai Cohen (not the trumpeter of the same name).

The preamp output specs are: OUTPUTS • Line Output: Nominal 0.5V RMS @ 100 Ohms • Balanced Output via XLR : Nominal 1.0V RMS @100 Ohms Electronically Balanced And the XLS input sensitivity is 1.25V for full power. I suspect that 0.25V can make quite a difference, but I don't really know. The distortion will almost certainly be the preamp not the power amp. You can happily send an underpowered distorted signal to the power amp. Maybe someone else will be along with a better answer soon.. 600W should be plenty.

I would guess the preamp doesn't provide enough output signal to fully drive the power amp. Despite the name, many instrument preamps aren't designed to be plugged directly into a power amp requiring a pro-audio level signal. Which is pretty annoying! If you have access to a mixer you could put that between the pre and power amps and set the level on that to provide a full signal to the power amp (0dB on the meter I think) and see if that makes a difference. If so then that is the problem.

[quote name='EssentialTension' post='599494' date='Sep 15 2009, 06:48 PM']What's scale length on a baritone uke? These are 20". Would the poly strings fit through the tuners on a baritone uke?[/quote] A quick google suggests 19" for a normal baritone, although some pages say just over 20. Close enough either way I reckon. You might have to change the tuners or attack them with a file. And the bridge too. Still, I'm quite tempted myself!

Could you not just get a Baritone Uke and put some silicone or polyurethane strings on it for the same effect for much less money?

Bought an OHM GA140 head. Got a cup of tea out of it too. Easy. Thanks Oli.

[quote name='Soulfinger' post='512590' date='Jun 13 2009, 04:18 AM']According to a German amp tech who has one, the LG´s pre amp is a little bit on the weak side and doesn´t fully take advantage of the power amp´s capabilities. He built himself a booster to go between pre and power amp and says it´s much louder now. Please don´t expect me to go into any more details, I know nada about that kind of thing. [/quote] Did you see this online or is it someone you know? That's quite interesting. Initially I thought that would have to involve doing some serious electronics work inside the case but I guess you could just use the line in and out and plug something inbetween.

Hi, I have a LG 350. Sound wise it is fine although I havn't had many other things to compare it to. I had a button fall off once but it just popped back on. My only problem is it's lack of volume, I think my bass has fairly low output. It's ok for rehearsing but has to be pretty much turned up full to cope. Not great for gigs unless it's only as a monitor or it's a quiet gig. I'm looking for something louder for gigging. Also, I have never seen the fan turn. Anyone know if that's because it's temperature controlled or just broken?! James

[quote name='TPJ' post='393792' date='Jan 28 2009, 04:24 PM']Congrats mate and enjoy.[/quote] Thanks, I am!

[quote name='hubrad' post='393860' date='Jan 28 2009, 05:32 PM']I often sell those Stentor ones, including a couple to friends, deffo way better than anything I've seen cheaper. The strings are not half bad to start with; I'm using Evah Pirazzi which just leapt up to nearly £250 a set! A brill pickup is the Realist by David Gage. I've used this for 8 years now, and recently got the mandolin version too.[/quote] Cheers, yeah it seems really good. Had a lesson today and my teachers bass is obviously nicer but I think the strings are where the main difference lies, they felt much better. He said his were that sort of price. Ouch! That's painful. Especially if they ever snap. Not sure I'll be needing a pickup for a few months at least though! I'm quite tempted to try making one first though just with a piezo transducer and a jack socket. If it doesn't work it's only a few quid lost.