Maude

Update time, but sadly only on the bathroom counter, not a bass body. I cut, shaped and sanded the counter top today. The wood has been sat outside but undercover since I got it. It seems OK to make my counter top with but time will tell. I'm not overly worried if it warps slightly or splits a little as it's supposed to be on the rustic side anyway. I've PVA'd the freshly cut ends to limit rapid moisture loss and hopefully prevent any further splitting. The main slab has a rather large split from one end limiting it's use for a bass body, I'll see what I can salvage, but the salvageable part doesn't have great spalting. Hey ho, it was bought for the counter top so so be it. What I'd like to know from all you good lutheiry folks is what's recommended for adding a little colour. I'm not sure exactly what I want and I'll be doing a couple of test pieces with offcuts, but I'd like to just buy one product and get on with it. I'll explain with pictures. This is just the dry bare wood, no photo editing so a fairly good representation of true colour. Then this is it with white spirit wiped over it. The colour is much better with white spirit on it, but I think I'd like it slightly darker, more like the heartwood (?) strip in the centre beside the sink in the last picture. The problem is that whatever I put on that darkens it will also darken all the lighter areas, and I like the contrast. I've used calligraphy inks before and they work well. I could use a sepia ink and 'colour in' the darker areas, leaving the lighter parts. How successful that would be, whole knows. One for a test peice. Another option is to just oil it and hope it darkens enough but leaves a good contrast. If oiled, would using a slurry and buff method cause the slurry from the darker areas to taint the lighter areas? Are there tinted oils? Whatever I apply to darken the colour needs to be compatible with being overpainted in 2k poly lacquer. Any ideas folks? 🙂👍

Three that immediately spring to mind are Gabe Nelson (Cake), Stuart Morrow (New Model Army) and Billy Gould (Faith No More). Stuart Morrow is absolutely fantastic.

I think the forum has a 'sales portal'. I entered it not long after joining. A magical place full of basses where willpower, restraint and financial self-control get left outside. Ahhhh sales portal... My love for you will never die. 😍

When The Levee Breaks - Led Zeppelin

Dandy - The Kinks

I really shouldn't get drawn in... but... would you care to point out where anyone (apart from the post before yours that was in jest) has even hinted that they have no time for short scales. I have several short scales, and medium and long. I just don't see any need for a separate sub forum in sales. No frothing or getting hot under the collar here, just an answer to the question posed. Apologies if it wasn't the answer you wanted to see.

Geordie in Wonderland - The Wildhearts

In the bin where it bloody belongs! 😁

I want a Tuba subforum. 😐

Pull Up To The Bumper - Grace Jones

Personally I can't see there's any need. If you do then where do you stop? Are short scales any more different and popular than say, five strings? If not then do we end up with separate four, five, six, eight and twelve string sections, short scale, long scale, medium scale, traditional style, modern style, active, passive, painted, natural wood, fancy 'coffee table' wood, blah blah blah? Where do you draw the line?

The Riverboat Song - Ocean Colour Scene

Nothing saucy. 🤫 😄 The Yamaha BB Peter Hook signature. A rare and magnificent bass. 😉

Zombie Noise - The Meteors

Large venues are cheaper I find, no amp needed. I've did several festival gigs with an Aria STB Series P bass (£40 second hand) and a Behringer BDI21 (£19 on Amazon at the time)

And we're BBPH brothers now I see. 🙂👍 Edit: That was meant to be more jokey, less creepy sounding than it does when read back. 😁

An evening with Peter Hook and The Light in April. They're doing their own support by playing a set of New Order tracks, then playing Unknown Pleasures and Closer in full along with other Joy Division favourites. First gig for a few years and I'm really looking forward to it.

National Express - The Divine Comedy

Download the Boss tuner app to your phone. Free, works a treat and looks just like a TU3. Tuner linky. Top tip, reduce sensitivity in the settings to make it more stable.

All Cried Out - Alison Moyet

Generally speaking your G string saddle will be the furthest forwards (towards the neck), the D,A & E will need progressively more string length to correctly intonate. Therefore set your G saddle on nearly it's furthest reach (towards the neck), I say nearly as I always leave some spare adjustment forwards in case of any mis-measuring or string anomalies. On a Fender style bridge leaving about a saddles width of thread sticking out of the saddle should be fine, just in case. Then sit your bridge with 34" (if that's the scale of this bass) between the G string nut slot and saddle. Measure from the fretboard side of the nut. Others may do it differently but I've yet to have this method fail on me yet. I'd also use a peice of thin string, even cotton, to make an E and G string to ensure the bridge is aligned properly with the neck.

Grinding Halt - The Cure

Some Candy Talking - The Jesus And Mary Chain

Quite. I'd also expect a set up to be part of having a neck shim, especially at that price. You can't shim a neck and then not set it up, well you can if you just don't care, but I wouldn't want anyone like that working on my basses anyway. It almost sounds like he's priced the job out of the water as he doesn't want to do it. If you (the OP) really don't feel able to do the job then that's fair enough, but it really is a string of simple, small jobs, rather than a big, daunting task. Any number of folks on here will be more than happy to walk you through it oe step at a time. Best of luck whatever route you choose. 🙂👍

New Dawn Fades - Joy Division