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PlungerModerno

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Posts posted by PlungerModerno

  1. That looks very very nice - Really like the Tele headstock with the Jag bodyshape and that style of pickguard.

    What sort of tuners have you on it and does it feel neck heavy? Looking at the frets it looks like the upper horn is slightly shorter than the Jazz / Precision style bodies (maybe half a fret shorter?).

  2. Could be the bass - could be the cable /wireless.

    Could be a pedal it's plugged into, or the amp or cab (or combo) it's plugged into.

    Also could be the pickups moved by themselves! Truth is most pickup mounting solutions can shift, but the foam and screw that Jazz style pickups typically have can compress over time - causing the pickup to sit lower in the cavity - with a noticeable drop in output. Check if loosening the pickup height adjustment screws causes the pickup to rise up. If it doesn't the foam needs replacing.

  3. [quote name='alyctes' timestamp='1466378393' post='3075440']
    This kind of thing is exactly why I won't even listen to Kiss...
    [/quote]

    The reason I don't listen to Kiss is I don't like their music. I find the showyness of the whole "Kiss" thing quite wonderfully tasteless. If only the bland music they made was 5% as interesting as the costumes & shows - which at the very least were different.

    EDIT: Almost forgot . . . It's not cool. It's a demon from hell - presumably it's hot?

  4. [quote name='spongebob' timestamp='1465293030' post='3066770']
    I love the look of those! :)
    [/quote]

    I think they look good - but the headstock is goofy IMO.
    I also think that hollow bodies and semi-hollow bodies need to be light if they're going to be as big and delicate as most of them are.
    Big + Heavey + Delicate = A big NO in my book.

  5. [quote name='tauzero' timestamp='1464717461' post='3061821']
    He's cut a big U shape out of the body arcing round the bridge, then used some substance (resin or plastic, I would think) to build up the horrible-looking grungy bits.
    [/quote]

    +1

    Stage 1 - Strip body down (may strip paint depending.
    Stage 2 - Route out hollows, then go over it all with a roundover router bit.
    Stage 3 - Cover most of the hollow using a mix of pre-made components (e.g. skeletons) and a modelling plastic (perhaps some sort of 2 part epoxy even?)
    Stage 4 - Prime, paint, and clear.

    Or something like that. Simple enough to do. My only objections are the design and pricing.
    I'd prefer something a lot more G'WAR and a lot less "Wierd melted kids toys"

  6. I think it's different - like the EB-3 Epiphone makes - only sleeker (much more elegant headstock shape & tuner positions IMO).
    Pity it has the strap button so far back (it's around the 15th fret, whereas most SG styles are even more extreme - behind the 17th or 18th fret:
    [url="http://www.epiphone.com/Products/Bass/EB-3.aspx"]http://www.epiphone.com/Products/Bass/EB-3.aspx[/url]


    Would need to try one to be sure - but it doesn't appear to be "balanced" in the traditional sense.

  7. [quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1464024456' post='3055859']
    Sounds to me like there's too much chance of it going wrong to my liking. I'd be inclined to taking Manton's advice and live with it or sell it. Let someone else have the problem. I generally tackle most things, but on this maybe I'm just chicken.
    [/quote]

    There's being chicken - and then there's being aware of when you're out of your depth.
    I wouldn't try doing anything with binding on a MIJ/CIJ Fender - especially one like an Aerodyne which is a popular choice for those looking for a lighter Fender.

  8. The most precise joints and fitting of inlays (simple geometric patterns like a block inlay all the way to insanely complex multi-inlay pictures) are all possible with good co-ordination and a set of sharp, sharp chisels. Even after prescise routing a chisel is handy to get a "too tight" fit "just right" allowing some glue to stay in the joint when it's malleted shut!

    The work is coming along nicely. I wouln't choose a TOM style bridge & tailpiece personally - but I think the gold will look lovely on the finished product.
    Can't wait to see what the "big secret" is on the top.
    - Followed! B)

  9. Definately cost a rewind - once the pickup (magnets, bobbins, covers etc) is solid and undamadged - pretty much the only common failure point is the hair thin copper (or occasionally aluminium) wire that makes up the windings. Should be cheaper than a whole new pickup!

  10. [i]"the sides are at angels"[/i]

    Do you mean they are heavenly beings? That the sides of the neck aren't 90 degrees to the edge of the fretboard? Or that the scale length is "angled" e.g. like the Dingwall / Novax "fanned fret" system?

    I'd recommend a template sized and slotted to the desired scale or scales - the simplest I've seen is the "mitre box" style:

    See [url="http://www.gmcbasses.co.uk/GMCBasses/BASS6Diary4.htm"]http://www.gmcbasses.co.uk/GMCBasses/BASS6Diary4.htm[/url]
    for the rest of the pics & some advice on preparing for a fret job.

  11. [quote name='scojack' timestamp='1463238371' post='3049856']
    Andy ..yer a gent :)

    Progress ..
    Found a 5 string piezo in a drawer that i forgot about, made up a bridge for it, tried it on the bass ,,too short !!
    Turns out Artec do 2 types, this was the narrow version (no good). So i will have to order one now, thought i'd hit the jackpot there.
    Anyhoo did another bridge that will accomodate the correct size pickup this time..



    Ian
    Oh ..question

    The neck is fairly deep set,, do you think there's enough meat there to glue it in? It's a very tight fit and seriously tempting.
    [/quote]

    If you can go bolt on - I'd recommend bolt on. I don't think the tone / sustain difference is big enough to worry about - and when it's a set neck you wind up with a so-so transition (just like most contoured bolt on neck joints). Neck through or "bolt in" like the Brubakers* offer more options for great access at the dusty end!

    *See the brute below:


    In summary I think you lose the option to easily modify or swap a neck if it's set in or neck through - while set neck doesn't offer the carving options of neck through - unless you go the route of deeeeeeeep tenons, in which case you're using almost as much wood stock as a neck through neck blank! Do what you like the most!

  12. Great progress - the splits are frustrating (especially the new one) but I think you're well on the way (and on the right track.). Dowel, spline, and cross-ply as you see fit - it'll be worth it for a solid bass.

    Really looking forward to seeing this finished - but I also appreciate the updates and pictures. It's a treat so thanks for sharing.

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