tedmanzie

An up to date Cubase (which you'd get an upgrade offer for I expect) might be preferable as you know it a bit? Or cubase lite (or whatever the cut down version is called). DP used to be Mac only, I see it's windows also these days, you might want to check out Motu forums and see how happy the customers are with 9.1, motu make great hardware but their software has often suffered from lack of support, or at least that was the situation a few years back.

For multitrack protools is king but if you want virtual instruments and that kind of thing then logic/cubase/dp are stuffed with goodies! I'm a mac + logic user.

30 day trial of dp is helpful, let us know what you think

Why not stick to what you know? (protools I assume) You're already running a motu interface with no issues. Learning a new DAW is a major headache! I tried DP back at version 6... not for me, plus it's very expensive. I've got an 828mk3 and it's solid as a rock with various softwares (Mac).

[quote name='Numerov' timestamp='1481028145' post='3189072']
The [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Sansamp-type preamp/DI to give a more amped tone sounds the better option to me - but I'm new to all this.[/font][/color]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Did some recording with a mate who played bass in the early 2000's and he used a Line 6 Bass Pod back then[/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Got some good results. Think that was some kind of an amp modeller.[/font][/color]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Are there any advantages to using a plain DI instead?[/font][/color]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Thank you.[/font][/color]
[/quote]

Have you got an A/D converter already?
If so you can usually plug straight into a lot of those (many will take an instrument straight in), and then when you're mixing use some amp sim plugin things IF you need to.

[quote name='SH73' timestamp='1481019939' post='3188953']
I've got a c shape neck on my jazz bass. Matt Freeman neck is similar but think chunkier but I find it comfortable
[/quote]

thanks

I was wondering about these, do they have a jazz neck?

[quote name='Numerov' timestamp='1480866765' post='3187652']
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Tried a Squier Vintage Modified Jaguar Short Scale bass yesterday.[/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]This has a PJ pickup configuration.[/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]It has a neck the same size as a Jazz bass (the Precision PJ has the same size neck as a standard Precision) and was very comfortable to play.[/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Love that neck!![/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I liked the P and J sound it made and also the combined PJ sound.[/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I could quite easily see myself picking this up and learning on it.[/font][/color]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I know there's a full scale version that also has an active pre-amp.[/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I found out that if the battery dies on this bass - it doesn't work at all even if you're using it purely in passive mode.[/font][/color]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]3 questions come to my mind.[/font][/color]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]1. How different would the short scale version sound compared to the long scale (assuming the long scale is in passive mode). Would it be very different or quite subtle?[/font][/color]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]2. I've read there can be issues with intonation on short scale basses - does anyone know if the short scale VM Jaguar suffers from them particularly?[/font][/color]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]3. On the long scale version would it be possible to add a physical switch on the body of the bass that would switch on the active pre-amp or switch it off completely to allow passive mode use even if there was no battery inside the instrument?[/font][/color]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Big thanks everyone! [/font][/color]
[/quote]

Short scales are cool, especially if you're coming from guitar, I've got a 32" scale P bass, not played a 30" but I imagine it's very easy to play especially if you are going to use a pick.

p.s. there's another thread in this section about shortscales & medium scales, here's the article it links to, very good!:
[url="http://www.innertainment.net/medium.html"]http://www.innertain...net/medium.html[/url]

[quote name='Numerov' timestamp='1480724956' post='3186808']
Answering Grangur's last post:
When I was playing on the Vintage modified PJ - When I had the P pickup on full and then at the same time turned the J pickup on full - the difference in tone wasn't very noticeable. The sales guy thought that was because the factory setup of the pickup heights wasn't done as well as it could be. When I had the J pickup on full and turned the the P pickup to zero the J pickup sounded weaker than I was expecting. So perhaps the sales guy was right or maybe the J pickup on this particular bass had a problem. But it did not give me confidence to buy the instrument. I also see your point about upgrading an Affinity - that if I tried to sell it on I wouldn't get the money back on the upgrades. But I'm looking to own a bass I can learn on and use for recording and maybe jam with friends. I just want it to sound right - so would not be looking to sell it.

Answering Paul_C2's post.
I did pick up and try an Affinity Jazz - and really liked playing it and liked the variety of tones it can make. But whenever I've heard comparisons of a J bass against a P Bass on Youtube where a guy is alternating between the 2 basses and playing along with a track that's been recorded - to my ears the P bass tends to sit in the mix better in more cases. Also because the J bass is brighter (because of the 2 single coil pickups?) there's much more percussive string noise. As a novice that string noise will be worse compared to experienced players. So my hopeful idea of the PJ bass was to have that P sound as a basis and then mix it with the bridge J to get a some of that J bass vibe.

Here are 3 youtube videos comparing a P bass to a Jazz bass.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XLfd0j5G_8

[url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-pT2I0O7GY"]https://www.youtube....h?v=x-pT2I0O7GY[/url]

[url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isnyzHVoU-k"]https://www.youtube....h?v=isnyzHVoU-k[/url]

On the first 2 videos I think the P bass wins no problem.
On the third video I think it's closer - but the percussive string noise on the J Bass really bothers me.
On the 2nd and 3rd videos I believe the tone is fully on for both basses - so maybe if the tone was rolled off a little on the J bass, then maybe the percussive string noise would reduce to make it more similar to the P-bass??

So I can see the appeal of the J bass - but I'm wondering as a beginner I'm better off getting a PJ bass so I've always got that reliable P bass sound to fall back on and can add some J bridge tones when I get a bit more adventurous. Does that make sense? If I get good at the bass - maybe look to get a J bass in the future??

Thanks for everyone's advice so far and definitely very happy to hear more.

My quest will continue!
[/quote]

You've given 3 examples of preferring a P bass sound and your stated musical intention, as well as your budget, suggests a P bass would be perfect. I think you're coming at it from a guitar player's angle - thinking about tonal options, pickup combinations etc. I would suggest that bass is a simple sound - it's bass-y. You want to learn bass playing so the less distractions you have re. tonal options the better. The great thing about P basses is that they are simple and they sound good without any fiddling. There is no need to think 'when I get better I might get a jazz'. A PJ for me makes it worse, not better. There are a multitude of opinions but at least give one a go!

[quote name='Numerov' timestamp='1480648117' post='3186115']
I'm sure you guys will have seen similar posts!

I've listened to lots of bass playing on Youtube and think a PJ configuration would suit me the best.
Also think passive would be best.

Shortlist

1. Squier Vintage Modified Precision PJ
2. Squier Affinity Precision PJ
3. Yamaha TRBX174
4. Yamaha RBX170
5. Yamaha RBX270
6. Ibanez GSR200 (this has an active circuit which I would probably get bypassed)


Looking for following advice

Is the guitar well made or is it likely to have problems?

Does it stay in tune?

How good is the precision split coil pickup

How good is the Jazz bridge pickup?

How good do the pickups sound when you blend them?

Thanks

Mike
[/quote]

Get a Precision, seriously, stop even thinking about it, the lack of faffing around will save wasted years off your life!
All you'll have to think about is where you like your tone control positioned.
I was in a similar situation to you, pickup configurations can be good on an electric guitar, but I've had a Jazz and it was a pain in the a**. Bass is bass-ic !
If you carry on thinking about PJs you'll next find yourself thinking about more than 4 strings if you can get away with leather trousers on stage.

[quote name='pierreganseman' timestamp='1479984297' post='3180737']
indeed, 1984 / 86 to my memory....

identical to JV .... in my opinion ...
[/quote]

I've got a JV (not fender logo) and an SQ and they are similar but different. Same build quality I reckon and the body of the SQ is actually nicer. The necks are quite different, the JV is a bit slimmer and has more rounded edge profile, and the SQ has a slightly thicker neck but the square edges of the fretboard make it feel quite different. Someone here said the SQ neck is more 70s but I wouldn't know. The JV has cloth wires and I'm not sure re the pickups but I left it all original. The SQ I put a KiOgon loom in and Fender Custom Shop Vintage 62 pickups (the more expensive versions) and the bass sounds fantastic. The nut was quite high on the SQ, I had it cut lower and the chap that did it for me was raving about how nice the bass sounded. Bass Raver!

There are lots of good players on YouTube but I've not found anyone who can both play brilliantly and then break it down with just the right mix of theory (light) and easy to follow steps.
I love his kind of low key delivery:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCp7Ou7C15WhEKc9pgxQkSYg

http://www.anyonecanplayguitar.co.uk

[quote name='Dutchie' timestamp='1479824642' post='3179568']
I've learn't my first lesson: Don't let wife touch bass, look but don't touch!
[/quote]

I'd really recommend getting someone to help you change those strings. I remember when I first started playing the guitar it was sometimes very difficult to tune because I couldn't tell if it was too high or too low, and I'd often break a string. I would certainly recommend at least tuning it by ear rather than using a digital tuner. Using a tuner from miles out of tune is when you end up breaking strings. Use the tuner to fine tune (if you need to) after getting it nearly there by ear:

http://www.jamplay.com/tools/free-online-bass-guitar-tuner

select 'tune by ear' and 'standard'

Stringing the bass is well worth learning to do properly, if I were you I'd book it in to be restrung and ask them to talk you through it.

[quote name='SteveMcD' timestamp='1479727216' post='3178715']
Is there a safe way to sell an instrument other than face to face cash. I get the impression PayPal protects the buyer but how do I protect myself as a seller.
[/quote]

I don't think you can go far wrong if you deal with people that have decent feedback on here, or decent feedback on ebay. Only issues I have ever had is with zero feedback people on ebay. I wouldn't buy or sell on gumtree or preloved unless it was a face to face cash deal. On higher priced items I always make phone contact with the seller, you can tell a lot by how someone handles a phone call. If they refuse to talk to me (and some ebayers won't) then I won't deal with them. I think Paypal is good for it's ease, although 'gift payments' are apparently unprotected. I don't really like bank transfers. A couple of hours drive to do the old 'motorway cafe transaction' can save a lot of grief over payment and postage.

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1479297339' post='3175390']
Radius does make a difference to the action but its by a tiny tiny amount though. A vintage radius of 7.25 is a different feel also to a flat board.
In general after a fret level, recrown and extensive multi stage polish a 7.25 radius board I can set up 2.4 - 1.9mm e-g in action at a relief of .007 - .015 in relief (personal relief preference is induvidual). And that would be absolutely no fret buzz even digging in.
Where in general any flatter boards I can get a better action sub 2.2mm - 1.5mm e-g. With a slightly flatter neck relief on average. Again that's a no fret buzz even digging in setup. Obviosly some like a bit of buzz if digging in so setups can get lower.

It seems to me from all the basses ive set up on average a flatter board allows anywhere from a 0.2 to 0.4mm improvement (lowering) in setup.
So not exactly much but some will notice that.

Also a 7.25 or even 9" radius might feel like its higher action when its not just because the tops of the e and g being lower than the a and d measured from the top. Not from the frets.
[/quote]

Where do you measure action from? 12th fret to bottom of string?
I've currently got 1.9mm on the E and 1.5mm on the G at the 12th fret, very tiny bit of relief in the neck.
I could get it a touch lower with heavier gauge like you say but the extra tension doesn't work for my left hand.

[quote name='RhysP' timestamp='1479301542' post='3175425']
You should try Newtone Heritage low tension acoustic strings, they're excellent.
[/quote]

Not heard of them before , thanks for the tip

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1479293872' post='3175353']
As others have said, radius will make no difference to action as the action on each string should be adjusted separately; adjusted for the right height from the top of the fret.

If you're getting strained hands and fingers, my guess is you're fretting the string down to the fingerboard all the time. Gary Willis has a good video on YouTube where he talks about the need to only use enough finger pressure to fret the string to change the note. I know GW is a fretless player BTW, but the situation is the same.

You could have the situation made easier by levelling the fret tops lower, but it would be better if you can work on adjusting your muscle-memory.

To work on the muscle memory, spend a few hours playing stuff really slowly with only using the minimum amount of pressure. Going slow allows the brain to learn the skill/technique faster.
[/quote]

Thanks for the tips. The thing is I have a very light fretting technique both on guitar and bass, but for whatever reason my left arm tendons started playing up about 20 years ago (too much acoustic guitar I think!) and I've found the only way to manage it is to keep string gauge / string construction / and action within certain limits + warming up and some stretches. TI Flats & DR Sunbeams (lite lite) with a low action are fine, anything above that, even LaBella low tensions, set it straight off again (which is annoying as I liked those...). If I play [i]any[/i] acoustic guitar for 10 mins I would have to take a week off...!

Feline Guitars (Croydon)
http://www.felineguitars.com
They are known for making very nice guitars, don't know if they make necks from scratch or buy them in, but worth a call if your investigating.

I was considering buying a Jazz neck for my Precision (Jap SQ Squire series), and I'd like it to have a low action for easy playability - high actions kill my left arm and fingers.

Radius:
I've got two basses (SQ & JV Squire) which I believe both have a vintage radius fingerboard (7.25"?) . On guitars, flatter fingerboards are known to help getting a low action, is it the same on basses? Guitars are a bit different as you have to accommodate string bending.

Frets:
One of my basses has vintage frets, the other a bit taller (6105?). I can't really notice the difference when playing bass tbh, although when on electric guitar I really don't like vintage frets. Do you think bigger frets on a bass help with playability/lower action?

Thoughts welcome, thanks

Great review, thanks Especially helpful to have the '6 months later' addition.
I've nearly bought one of these several times as I'd like a 'proper' bass that plays more like a guitar - string spacing and scale length - but many reviews say similar things to the drawbacks you've highlighted here.
I'll be steering clear, so thanks for saving me a few quid.

[quote name='TimR' timestamp='1476705454' post='3156419']
There are thousands of fairly average guitarists.
[/quote]

And millions of terrible ones!

I'm surprised SO many people here seem to be in bands. If you asked the same question on a guitar forum I bet it would be much much less

I've done a couple of gigs with an originals band I put together for a short period, and I use some of my own bass playing in my commercial work, but mostly I like fiddling around on it and learning a few things to try and get better for no real purpose. I'm not averse to a bit of air-bass either, especially when I've been at the air-wine,

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1476528385' post='3154972']
Because she's got a huge discography of work I'm never sure where to start with M'shell's work - any recommendations?
[/quote]

Pour une ame souveraine - A dedication to Nina Simone

I saw her at Ronnie Scotts a couple of years ago, it was one the best gigs I've ever been to. She did a few off this album at that gig and they were absolutely amazing, and while the album is much more 'produced' it's still great. And afterwards I told how much I'd enjoyed the gig and she kindly put me on the guest list for the following night, which was very kind of her and the second time was just as brilliant.

Bump.
Now £10

[quote name='hiram.k.hackenbacker' timestamp='1475266426' post='3144653']


I would have put money on that :-)
[/quote]

Get the Mono, it's brilliant. If you're a completist get both.

Has anyone bought the new album as mentioned in the thread title? I hear that it's also excellent - remastered live at Hollywood bowl.

I haven't read this thread, but I went to see the film this week and it is [b]BRILLIANT[/b]!

The Shea Stadium footage that follows the film is amazing and is the only time I've had tears of joy in my eyes at a film since i was about 6. Essential!