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tedmanzie

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Posts posted by tedmanzie

  1. Fender Squier MIJ 32" Medium Scale Precision A-serial


    [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]A rare and excellent bass, I believe it is 1984, serials went JV, SQ, E, A I think.[/font][/color]
    [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Neck is fantastic, has custom shop 62 fender pickups & kiogon wiring loom installed, proper slab rosewood board, off white body, light weight. 40mm nut, 18 /19mm spacing at the bridge.[/font][/color]

    [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Has some dings and scratches to the body, most obvious is a small chip near the strap button. Neck is all fine minus one tiny ding half way. There is some light scratching on the back of the headstock. Sounds absolutely tremendous. [/font][/color]

    [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I've owned this before, sold it here to raise money, bought it back a few years later [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]from Paul S.[/font][/color]
    [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Currently strung with TI Flats. Very thin gigbag included.[/font][/color]

    [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Cost me £450 to buy it back from Paul S so looking for the same, collected (Kingston KT2 6HD). Courier at cost.[/font][/color]

  2. [quote name='Basszilla' timestamp='1484830244' post='3218843']
    Ted - so that pre would sit after the CP1 and before the speakers yeah? Is that a master volume dial? Another question...What other options would I have with an extra £100 or so and would it make a great deal of difference soundwise as you upgrade the pre?

    [/quote]

    That's correct, and yes that is a master volume dial. That Project pre is supposed to be good and for £200ish seems to fit in the price range of the other gear. You can of course go nuts on any item of hifi, but that is a good range to be at - expensive enough to be out of the budget range. I haven't really looked much, I remembered Project were doing a nice range of small items, but there will be others out there...!

    As bassman7755 has identified, the Tascam does have line inputs on the rear and a single stereo monitor volume so you could easily use that, or at least give it a whirl!

  3. [quote name='Basszilla' timestamp='1484805702' post='3218546']
    I may have to bite the bullet and go the traditional route and invest in a separate amp and passive speakers to get the best out of my set up.
    [/quote]

    You don't need to do that, just sort out a pre-amp, those speakers are supposed to be good, plus you have eq controls on the rear for fine tweaking due to placement etc.

  4. You connect as suggested in the original post - turntable into cp1 > cp1 into Adams speakers via unbalanced input using standard phono cables > use the volume knobs on the front of the speakers to adjust volume individually for left/right. Ignore the Tascam, it's irrelevant.

    If you want a single volume control then you'll need a preamp. This could be a hifi type preamp or a dj mixer.

    Do you know how to set tracking weight on your turntable?

  5. Aguilar GS112 cab + cover

    Barely used, ungigged 1 x 12 GS Aguilar cab + Aguilar cover, condition is like new. This is the 'no tweeter' version.

    Due to a problem with the original driver this cab had a replacement fitted by repair specialist Surrey Amps (exact same driver) and has had very little use since due to me DI'ing the bass when recording (Aguilar Tone Hammer is also for sale here for the same reason)

    £215 collected (kingston SW london)
    + £20 post

  6. Aguilar TH500 amp, bought in March 2014 but barely used and never gigged, sits in my studio looking at me wanting to be played.
    Absolutely mint condition, original box, packaging, manual & sticker!

    £445 delivered, £430 collected (Kingston SW London)

    No offers please, this is as new, no trades thanks.

    [indent=1][i]Tone Hammer 500 combines 3 bands of flexible EQ, a colorful "Drive" control, and 500 watts of power in a 4 lb package. The Tone Hammer 500 will give you the legendary "Aguilar Sound" while still fitting into the accessory pouch of most gig bags [/i][/indent]

  7. Mint condition ATC SCM25a, latest version, 14 months old (so just under 5 years of warranty left with ATC), original boxes, packaging, manual, foam bungs, power leads. Finish is Pro Black. Lightly used in my smoke free studio at normal levels. Wonderfully rich, detailed and transparent. Only selling as I have an opportunity to get a pair of 50s.

    Currently retailing at £7,400

    WITHDRAWN FOR NOW

    change of plan...

  8. [quote name='Woodinblack' timestamp='1482491426' post='3200975']
    There you go,
    TL: [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Maruszczyk Elwood, TR: Ibanez ATK[/font][/color]
    [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]BL: Ibanez SR1605, BR: Sherwood bass thats up for sale[/font][/color]



    All <= 1.75", apart from the last one that is 1.5! The elwood was obviously specified to that as it is a custom (it was specified to be the same as the 1605 in fact).
    [/quote]

    Interesting, what's the string spacing up at the bridge end on these?

    It was looking for tight spacing at the bridge that got me thinking about this 4 to 5 thing in the first place (although it's more of a discussion point than a serious idea to be honest). I was looking at a Hofner Violin Bass in the window of a shop and it has extremely tight spacing and the strings were almost parallel right up the neck - I'm predominantly a pick playing guitarist turned bassist and tight spacing is much easier especially for octave jump 16ths kind of thing.

  9. [quote name='Telebass' timestamp='1482415881' post='3200360']
    This is something I intend to do if I can get hold of a P-bass with a C width neck. The required hardware, if you can find one, is a Wilkinson device from yonks ago called a 4+1. It requires no mods to the instrument, except, of course, a new nut. The original kit came complete with a B string! I got the 4+1 off someone here, but have not yet used it...
    [/quote]

    Thanks for the info, I seem to have a memory of this device, I must have looked it up at some point.
    The 5 strings wouldn't run so neatly between the P-Bass pole pieces, would this be an issue do you think?
    And the strings would be slightly angled after the nut but i guess that's not a big deal - the guy on the link above has a string tree.

  10. Actually that's not true, I learned that studying [b]Jazz[/b] has ruined my guitarist friend's ability to play in our (very infrequent) band.
    Whereas he used to be happy playing a simple spikey fun riff, he now is literally unable to stop himself trying to do a f***ing improvised solo over anything that moves. So be careful out there, jazz can kill your band! :shok: :sun_bespectacled:

  11. [quote name='SubsonicSimpleton' timestamp='1481722247' post='3194530']
    Whatever you buy, having the guitar set up so that it is easy to play is more important than the guitar itself - with your budget I would get the following;
    used Yamaha F310 ~£50 (new F310s can be picked up for £99 from argos, and are a much better buy than any of the other competing laminate acoustics in that price range(ie they actually sound nice for what they are), but you can probably get something higher up the range if you buy used)
    clip on tuner plus shubb capo ~£25
    set of extra light guage strings and basic setup work (nut height is critical to make the guitar beginner friendly) with the balance, surplus can be spent on softcase/songbooks/lessons/whatever.

    If your daughter sticks with it, she can pick out something pricier later on(I would recommend saving for something really nice rather than lots of intermediate upgrades), but the Yamaha will always have a use in situations where you wouldn't want to risk damaging a more expensive instrument like camping trips with friends, or passing it round at a party where people want to have a sing-song but are a little the worse for wear. Lots of people buy guitars and give up, and a big factor is the discomfort and pain caused by nuts that are too high, and having to deal with 12/13 gauge bronze strings with a newbies weak uncalloused hands.
    [/quote]

    I agree 100%

    Buy it from a proper guitar shop who will be able to tweak the setup hopefully as part of the service - nut height, bridge height (these are always too high), truss rod tweak, and fitting decent light strings will transform a guitar form an unplayable finger breaking nightmare into a thing of relative joy! :)

    My friend had bought his daughter a £90 acoustic having read that it was good value. She struggled away on it for a year. I asked if I could play it the other week, I literally could not hold down a chord on it, the nut and bridge were so high and it had heavy dead strings on it. Gave me left arm pain within about 2 mins. We ran it round to charlie chandlers and for £50 (bit steep maybe) they did the nut, bridge & strings and turned it into something you can actually play and learn on.

    There are loads of decent acoustics out there for sub £175, but definitely try and get to a shop - I think full size dreadnoughts are a handful, personally I like a slightly smaller body size. I tried a Sigma in chandlers and it was very nice.

  12. OP - What you should also do imo is consider if there's anything you could do (could have done) to be more professional or reliable or a team player. I don't work with band members but I do work with teams for my job, and it's often the case that people can't see their own failings (and I'm sure that's the case for me too btw!). Big things for me when working in a team are:

    - reliable communication: responding promptly to emails & calls
    - doing what you say: not leaving something half done, or having to be repeatedly asked 'have you done that thing yet that you said would be ready today?'
    - being positive and friendly and responding well to well intentioned criticism (eg 'thanks for pointing that out' not 'why are you always having a go at me?')
    - don't over promise and keep people informed: eg. be realistic about deadlines, and if something is slipping let people know asap and ask for help

    Not saying you're failing on any of these but it's worth taking an impartial look. Sometimes if people are getting frustrated with you it's because of something you're not doing as expected, but then of course other times it's just because they are an idiot! :)

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