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hamfist

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Everything posted by hamfist

  1. hamfist
    Thanks guys. Still available. TRades ... hmmm, maybe an old valve amp ?
  2. hamfist
    [quote name='JimBobTTD' timestamp='1388771244' post='2325940'] Your photography skills are good. How are you with Photoshop? Can you make a mockup of how it would look? I'd offer to do it for you, but my strengths lie elsewhere! [/quote] Great idea. OK here's some simple mock-ups. Parchment [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/parchment-pg-004.html][/url] Ivory [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/004-ivory-pg.html][/url] Beige [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/004-beige-pg.html][/url] and the original white [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/004-white-pg.html][/url] I still prefer the union jack !
  3. hamfist
    [quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1388760904' post='2325733'] How about a pickguard in something like a cream/pale yellow to match the binding and the maple fingerboard? [/quote] I agree that would look better than the pure white.
  4. hamfist
    Just set up one of my Thunders with this MM/P config. It is absolutely superb, and what a great mix of tones. The MM (in parallel) is in the Ernie Ball sweet spot, and then The P pickup snug right up to it, just a few millimetres nearer the neck than the Fender sweetspot (in use I'll never notice those few mms). All into a 3 band pre-amp with parametric mids. The P and MM soloed obviously give great P and MM tones, but there are also excellent Jazz-like tones blending the two. This really is a sweet setup. You just don't see it around. Don't understand why. [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/green-w-body.html][/url]
  5. hamfist
    [quote name='ezbass' timestamp='1388760065' post='2325716'] Union flag for sure. I like the idea of a black, white and grey version too. [/quote] Yup, I agree. A B&W union flag would look great, but to my knowledge a blank with it on is not available. I can get the coloured one from WD music though.
  6. hamfist
    OK, I've done a white/black/white one. Really nicely fitting too. Any better ? I like the fit, but I think I like the UNion Jack better. I think a properly fitting Union Jack one may be in my future. [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/004-white-pg.html][/url]
  7. hamfist
    WITHDRAWN After a lot of thought I have decided to sell my custom-tweaked Thunder 1A. It' a 1982 Matsumoku-made thunder 1A. However, in addition ..... - I have routed an extra bridge pickup cavity. - Fitted EMG's. Neck pickup is a std. EMG precision pickup. Bridge pickup is a 35P4, which is the EMG precision pickup but in a 35-sized shell. Controls are VVT (4th pot is a dummy to cover the hole. Also has a mini-toggle switch to switch the battery off, so you can leave an instrument cable plugged in without draining the battery. - stripped the body finish, sanded down to perfect, and finished in natural Danish Oil and lastly Briwax. - As you can see the body is absolutely stunning as the grain has come out beautifully. The neck is straight and true with minimal fret wear. Still has a lovely woody tone, despite the modern sound of the EMGs. The body is fairly immaculate. The neck and headstock have a couple of minor marks on as this bass is more than 30 years old. However, it still looks great and nothing affects the playability. Nut and bridge are brass. Tuners and other hardware are also original and in excellent condition. Fitted with a brand new set of roundwound 105-45's I'll let it go for £245 posted within mainland UK. Or £230 if you'll collect from me in the Southampton area. Trades ... well try me. I could be interested in a decent combo or cab, or an "interesting" 4 string bass. [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/body-front-1.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/body-rear-1.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/body-front-b.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/frets.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/full.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/headstock-front-2.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/headstock-rear-1.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/main-2.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/neck-rear.html][/url]
  8. hamfist
    [quote name='ATSbassman' timestamp='1388602834' post='2323936'] Whats everyones opinion on the Spector performers or Warwick Rockbasses? Know they are the low end but coming from well know companies is worth considering? [/quote] I know where you're coming from, and a lot of bassists from bands you probably like play Warwicks or Spectors, but you would do better going for a used one if you want on of those name brands. A used Spector Legend Classic could easily be got within your budget. If you look around you can pick up the occasional German Warwick for about £400 these days too. Maybe a Fortress or a Corvette. Seriously, thought, if you're buying new, try a Yamaha TRBX504. It'll thrash the pants off a Rockbass or a Performer in every category of quality.
  9. hamfist
    Hmmmmm. Well, I've got some white/black/white 3 ply blank pickguard material arriving any day. I'll do one in white and see how it looks. As I'd be cutting it from a full blank sheet I'd obviously be able to avoid the knob "cutout" I was forced to have on the Union Jack piece that I had. Oh, I'd also be able to have the cutout around the bridge pickup the right size. Again, using my Union Jack piece I was just adapting an old pickguard I had. I like the general shape of the guard, as it's a bit different, being more towards the bridge than the neck. But the knob cutout and the incorrect bridge pickup cutout size are annoying me.
  10. hamfist
    [quote name='skej21' timestamp='1388585538' post='2323656'] I like the pickguard and I like the bass but together... Not for me I'm afraid. Purple (the finish) and blue (in the flag on the pick guard) just don't look right together for me! [/quote] There's no purple. It's a gloss black finish. What you think is purple is the reflection of a pink blanket in the finish.
  11. hamfist
    Am I the only bassist around with a love of flamboyant pickguards ?
  12. hamfist
    Would be useful to know your budget. But I'd recommend the Yamaha TRBX504, or the TRBX304 if you cannot afford the 504
  13. hamfist
    Go to post #16 for a white pickguard version. I have always loved the looks of the Schecter Stargazer, but felt it was severely underwhelming to play - I'd assumed mainly down to the electronics. Anyway, I recently picked up Schecter's pre-cursor to the STargazer, rather oddly called the "004". It's the same body shape, and neck, but with a brass nut. It also has a pair of (completely awful) Schecter soapbar pickups. Anyway, the bass played and felt nice, so I thought it was worth upgrading. First in was a pair of EMG 35P4's. This gave a huge improvement in tone. I really like this setup. Next on was a vintage Westone (Matsumoku) 80's high mass cast bridge, as the original bridge was not feeling as solid as I wanted it, and the E string buzzed a little down there too. The bridge swap went well, and tightened things up nicely. The new one is a much higher quality bit of kit. Lastly, this morning I re-cut a Union Jack scratchplate I had hanging around. I think it all now looks rather super. It sounds and plays like something worth 3 times the cost now also. Anyway, here it is. [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/004-full.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/004-body-front.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/004-full-b.html][/url]
  14. hamfist
    [quote name='KingPrawn' timestamp='1388334498' post='2320873'] When you guys talk about the eq, what is it a physically need to do in terms of the settings? [/quote] I find that certain mid frequencies when boosted or cut can emphasize certain strings over others. Have you tried using the different mid frequencies on the Streamliner (from memory, either heavy cutting 220 Hz or boosting 600 Hz results in a relatively flat frequency setting for the amp (plus a bass cut)) to see if that might change anything. The STreamliner is a very, very coloured amp, in that it boosts/cuts some frequencies much more than others. It could be the issue.
  15. hamfist
    [quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1388224073' post='2319566'] I'm tempted to do the same on my Thunder Jet. No way of knowing what the wood beneath is like, but the finish on the bass is a weird turquoise colour, definitely not original. Could you give me a brief step by step on what you did please? [/quote] Theoretically, your Thunder Jet should have an Alder body ..... http://www.westone.info/thunderjetbass.html The key thing with getting a great finish is all in the preparation. And that means sanding, and then more sanding ... and then more sanding. You're getting the idea ! I started off with a clear lacquered finish, so is a little less work to remove than a coloured finish, but you should be able to do it no problem. I have a range of sandpaper. From 80 to 1000 grit for this. First take all your paint finish off with the heaviest grade paper you have. ALWAYS use a flat sanding block for flat surfaces ... this is the only way to keep the flat surfaces properly flat. Then once your paint is all gone and you're down to bare wood and have sanded out all the imperfections/dings that you want, You need to work your way through to the finer grades of paper to smooth out the surface. I finish off with 1000 grit. And remember to surface wet the wood, and then let it dry between your last couple of sands. THis wetting/drying raises the grain and you will get a much smoother finish. Once finished sanding I used Colron Danish oil (from B&Q). 4 coats (12 hours between coats, last two coats applied in a wet fashion with 1000 grit wet/dry paper). This wet sanding with the oil supposedly creates a wood/Danish oil slurry which fills the grain well. 24 hours later wax with whatever you want, with however many coats you want (I did about 3 I think). I'm going to get some Briwax I think, to finish this one off. It seems to be very well thought of almost everywhere. That's the basic procedure anyway. All the best.
  16. hamfist
    [quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1388182601' post='2319319'] looks great! Wee thing I found... obv. warwicks use oil finish which you then wax... well I used to use beeswax.... really sticky after a while... bought a tin of briwax a few months back.... works great and a harder surface too. There are other blended waxes about that would probably be as good/better. Oh and interesting fact... Diet Coke is better for cleaning metal than normal coke. [/quote] THanks, that's useful to know about the Briwax. Currently I've just used some Colron liquid wax polish I got from B&Q. I've had a go at the bridge and I DID use diet cola ! It's turned out pretty good actually !
  17. hamfist
    I have owned a couple of BC210's in the past. They are not the greatest cabs in the world, but neither are they the worst. THey don't handle high volume well, but that doesn't sound like a big issue for you if you are using them for your smallest gigs. The outer finish is also very delicate. There is no tweeter adjustment either. If you can live with all these things, I think they would do fine.
  18. hamfist
    THanks guys. It's all good stuff to think about.
  19. hamfist
    [quote name='danbowskill' timestamp='1388168767' post='2319104'] I had some quarter pounders in my pbass and I see you had them in a thunder hamfist...... is there a big difference compared with the stock? [/quote] I like the SPB-3 very much in a Thunder 1 (my favourite passive P pickup in fact). It's a big improvement on the original pickup IMO. I'm not a big fan of the original pickups (or preamps in the active versions) in the Thunders. Everything else about them is awesome though ! I'm amazed you don't see more of them around with aftermarket pickups and pre-amps. Virtually all of them that I see around are bog standard.
  20. hamfist
    I'll be cutting my first custom scratchplate in a few days. I've got a good template. I'll be using a Dremel mainly, plus a large flat file and sanding blocks for the final flat edges around the pickup cutouts. What I'm not quite sure how I'm going to do is to get the nice even bevel around the outer edge of the scratchplate. Any tips on doing that, or any in general about making your own scratchplates. Oh, I'll be using one of the standard 3mm thickness scratchplate blanks that are easily available. Oh, I also have ordered two sheets in case I f**k up the first !
  21. hamfist
    I agree with Lozz that EQ can certainly "bring out" some strings and "quieten" others. If you have a parametric mids control on your bass and sweep thefequency you are boosting/cutting it's very easy to find this out (as these frequencies tend to be in the mids IME). I'm not saying this is your issue but it could possibly be a factor.
  22. hamfist
    sorry withdrawn
  23. hamfist
    [quote name='Clarky' timestamp='1387897719' post='2317022'] Here's a before and after shot, showing what the Flitz did for the brass on my bass [attachment=150928:$T2eC16ZHJIcFHOrnFz+iBSfdk6Be,!~~60_57.JPG][attachment=150929:post-2944-0-02113900-1386600229.jpg] [/quote] It's clearly good stuff !
  24. hamfist
    I have not used this guy, but he operates out of the poole and Southampton areas.... http://www.joinmyband.co.uk/classifieds/jb-amp-repair-services-valve-and-solid-state-amp-repairs-t474724.html
  25. hamfist
    [quote name='redstriper' timestamp='1387893293' post='2316969'] Which model was it? [/quote] It was an FJB-6 with a factory one-off custom fretless neck.
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